
Pass- fr IH 7 
•5*. 

Book . B^n-^*. 



/ 



h | 



Y 



Ml 



1 \ 




In? Dowijjiiot.A.11. ADelf 




"W.T.Ito Sc-nlj 1 



Ocf-eij /? 



7- 



oo^tctt 



^/cf.t/r t 



.J^%<t/i'.>L</ £«„. /. /j?/. /y/ r(rl ^,%„/i. l „,:'li r ;/i,z l ,, ? 



MEMOIRS 



COUNT BORUWLASKI: 



CONTAINING 



A SKETCH OF HIS TRAVELS, 



AN ACCOUNT OF HIS RECEPTION 



AT THE DIFFERENT 

COURTS OF EUROPE, 
&c. &c. 



WRITTEN BY HIMSELF. 




T 



DURHAM: 



PRINTED BY FRANCIS HUMBLE AND CO. 

AND SOLD BY BALDWIN, CRADOCK, AND JOY, LONDON J ANDBSWS, 
DURHAM ; AND BY THE BOOKSELLERS IN NEWCASTLE^ " "" 
SUNDERLAND, NORTH AND SOUTH SHIELDS,. 
STOCKTON, DARLINGTON, ETC. 



1820. 






y s^prO 



DEDICATION. 



TO HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY, 
GEORGE THE FOURTH, 

KING OP THE UNITED KINGDOM OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, 
&c. &c. &c. 

May it please your Majesty, 

1 can fnd no words sufficiently expressive, 
to convey my grateful sense of the numerous 
favours conferred upon me by your Majesty , 
since my arrival in this kingdom, as 'well as of 
your gracious condescension in permitting me 
to dedicate to your Majesty this humble Work. 
Allow me, therefore, to assure your Majesty, 
that what my language is inadequate to de- 
scribe, I yet most deeply feel. By extending 
your patronage to this my publication, your 
Majesty has evinced to the world, that you are 
not willing to leave destitute of encouragement 



iy. DEDICATION. 

the feeblest literary efforts in that country, 
which your Majesty* s counsels have restored 
to peace, and to establish which, in prosperity, 
your endeavours are unremittingly exerted, 
I trust that, as the patron of literature, your 
Majesty will be rewarded, by your empire 
proving as glorious in arts as it has been in 
arms. Under the auspices of your Majesty's 
protection, I cannot permit myself to enter- 
tain a doubt of the success of this little work ; 
and, however imperfect it may in other respects 
be deemed, I have the satisfaction of knowing, 
that it will at least be a memorial of your Ma- 
jesty's kindness to, 

Your Majesty's most devoted, 

And most humble Servant, 

JOSEPH BORUWLASKL 

Durham, June 5, 1820. 



CHARACTER 



COUNT BORUWLASKI, 

BY THE LATE W. BURDON, Esq. OF HARTFORD, 
NORTHUMBERLAND. 



PRINTED FROM A MANUSCRIPT IN THE HAND-WRITING OF THAT 
GENTLEMAN. 



Being intrusted by the Author with the correc- 
tion and publication of these Memoirs, I cannot for- 
bear saying a few words concerning that interesting 
and amiable individual to whom they relate. 

Though Nature has formed him of size much be- 
low the ordinary standard, she has nevertheless en- 
dowed him with a mind superior to the generality of 
men. His talents, though of the lighter kind, are 
not altogether unequal to serious exertions ; and, had 
they been earlier cultivated, would have left him lit- 
tle below the most profound and intelligent philoso- 
phers. As it is, he is most remarkable for his tem- 
per and accomplishments, — for his ingenuity, viva- 
city, wit, humour, and penetration. He has seen 
much of mankind in various stations of life ; and, 
though considered more as a plaything than as a 
companion, he has omitted no opportunity of mak- 

B 



VI. CHARACTER, ETC. 

ing observations on individuals, and on the human 
species. Few men have a quicker conception than 
he has ; or more readily lay hold of the prominent 
parts, or represent them with greater humour or 
greater power of mimicry. His talents for music are 
of the most agreeable kind : he composes, and plays 
on the violin and guitar, the most beautiful, little live- 
ly airs, with an. elegance and facility, that are both 
rare and astonishing. He dances with all the light- 
ness and ease of an opera performer, and hardly ever 
tires. His temper is the most agreeable and placid ; 
his feelings lively and correct, and his principles are 
those of honour, integrity, and gratitude. He never 
forgets a kindness, nor ever remembers an injury. 
His head and his heart are equally estimable ; and, 
in short, I cannot name a man for whose amiable 
amenity and estimable qualities I have a greater re- 
gard. W. BURDON. 

Welbeck-Street, London, May 14, 1818. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Apology — Birth — Some account of my family — Visit to the 
Starostin de Caorlix ; cause of my leaving that noble lady, and 
my residence with the Countess Humiecka — Visit to the Pacha 
of Hochim — Arrival at Vienna; introduction to the Queen of 
Hungary — Journey to Munich and Luneville ; introduction to 
Stanislaus, King of Poland — Visit to the Queen of France at 
Versailles — Arrival at Paris ; affectionate attention of the Duke 
of Orleans ; anecdote of the Duchess of Modena, &c. Page 15 

CHAP. II. 

Departure from Paris for Holland; -description of that coun- 
try — Arrival at the Hague ; polite attention of the Stadtholder 
— Journey through Germany to Poland ; arrival at Warsaw, and 
reception there — Gracious offer of King Stanislaus II. to bestow 
an estate upon me — My affection for Isalina ; consequent dis- 
pleasure of the Countess Humiecka, who dismisses me — Kind- 
ness of Prince Casimir — The King grants me a pension — My 
marriage with Isalina — Pecuniary difficulties oblige me to leave 
Warsaw — Return to Vienna — Journey through Hungary and 
part of Turkey -_,. . . 41 

CHAP. III. 

Description of the city of Astrachan — Journey through 
Oremburg and Simbirsk to Kazan — Description of Kazan ; kind- 
ness of the Governor and his lady — Journey to Lapland and 
Finland — Arrival at and description of Archangel — Voyage to 
Nova Zembla; savage state of the natives — Journey to Bere- 
zowa; hospitality of its inhabitants — Arrival at Tobolsk in (Si- 
beria, and reception there ; generous behaviour of the Gover- 
nor . . . -■,.;• S3 



CHAP. IV. 

Departure from Tobolsk — Journey to Kamschatka ; arrival at 
Bolcheretskoi the capital — Description of the Volcanos — Jour- 
ney to Behring's Straits ; view of the Frozen Ocean — Desolate 
state of the country, and miserable existence of the natives — 
Arrival at Olensk ; improved appearance of the country — Visit 
to the city of Catherineburg ; politeness and liberality of the 
Director of the Siberian mines— Description of the country 
around — Remarkable incidents 91 

CHAP. V. 

Arrival at the city of Oufa ; description of antique remains in 
the neighbourhood of that place — Second visit to Oremburg — 
Digression ; introduction to Voltaire — Reflections — Visit to 
Bokhara — Arrival at Kislaer, the metropolis of the Circassian 
Tartars ; account of a hot spring there — Journey through Croar 
tia, Dalmatia, and Lower Arabia, to Kamience, and thence to 
Buda — Visit to Lintz and Munich ; introduction to the Elector j 
interview with the Prince de la Tour and Taxis, also with the 
Prince de Wallerstein — Arrival at Triersdorff; kind attentions 
of the Margrave and Margravine of Anspach . . 121 

CHAP. VI. 

Departure for England, by Frankfort, Mayence, Manheim, 
and Strasburgh — Introduction to the Princess Christian, aunt 
to Louis XVIII. — Arrival at Ostend — Storm at sea — Landing 
at Margate, and visit of Custom House Officers — Tale of a Tub 
— Waiter's blunders — Opinion of a stage coach — Departure 
from Margate, and arrival in London . . . 147 

CHAP. VII. 

Descriptive account of medicinal springs and salt mines of 
Poland — Wild men of the woods unknown in that country — 
Laughable mistake occasioned by the ringing of bells — Introduc- 



( OKTKXTS. IX. 

tion to the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire ; afterwards to the 
Prince of Wales — Visit from the Duke of Gloucester — Admit- 
ted to the presence of the King and Queen — Attacked by 
dangerous illness — Curious dream — Visit to Bath, Bristol, and 
Chester ; duped by an impostor in the latter city — Arrival in 
Dublin ; invitation from the Lord Lieutenant — Return to Eng- 
land — Concert at Leeds — Visit to Oxford . . 171 

CHAP. VIII. 

Visit to Blenheim ; polite reception from the Duke and 
Duchess of Marlborough — Count Oginski patronizes a concert 
— Interview with his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales — In- 
troduction to the Prince de Mecklenburgh — Arrival at Norwich, 
and concert there — Invitation to Braken, and kindness of Mrs. 

B Treacherous conduct of a Frenchman — Description of 

Cambridge — Arrival at Bury St. Edmunds ; kindness of the fa- 
mily of Metcalfe — Journey through York to Edinburgh — Eu« 
logium on Scotland — Departure through England for France — 
Arrival at Boulogne and Paris ; departure thence to Cher- 
burg and Guernsey. Description of the island and its inhabi- 
tants 199 

CHAP. IX. 

Return to England — Visit to Hereford and Warwick — Di- 
gression — Singular demand at Coventry — Birmingham — Imposi- 
tion of an innkeeper — Visit to Mr. Boulton's manufactory at 
Soho — Eulogy on Freemasonry — Arrival at Derby ; inundation 
there — Voyage from Liverpool to Dublin — Noble conduct of 
the Captain of the packet — Serious reflections — Melancholy 
history of a black cat — Visit to Cork ; successful concert there 
—The butcher's lady and the marrow bone — Excursion to Kin- 
sale; productive and brilliant concert — Voyage to Cork, and 
turbulence of the sea — Impression made upon me by a lady's 
nose 223 



CHAP. X. 

Visit to the lake of Killarney — Kind reception at Limerick— 
Friendly conduct of the Quakers at Clonmell — Methodist 
Preacher deserted by his flock— Journey to Tuara and Galway ; 
lucrative benefits at these places — Successful expedient to set- 
tle a dispute with a landlord, or "A new way to pay old debts" 
— Journey to Sligo — Doctrine of Rousseau — Sudden transition 
from the meanest to the most comfortable and splendid accom- 
modations ; and kind liberality of an amiable family . 252 

CHAP. XI. 

Return to Sligo ; relieved from the annoyance of vulgar curio- 
sity by the opportune frolic of a run-away pig — Loss and re- 
covery of Miss Janson's ass, the advertising of which aided my 
concert — Arrival at Londonderry, and description of that city ; 
Count de Tantene and his book — Visit to Belfast ; kindness of 
Generals Drummond and Seddon — Arrival at Portarlington ; 
advantages of equanimity and cheerfulness of disposition — Black 
powder and fasting, a sovereign remedy for lowness of spirits 
and loss of appetite, exemplified in the case of a lady — Arrival 
at Armagh ; introduction to General and Mrs Nugent ; lucrative 
benefit . . . . , . . ,' , . 278 t 

CHAP. XII. 

Visit to Kilkenny — Invitation to dine with Lord Ormond, wh« 
kindly patronizes a concert ; an unexpected discovery or " agree- 
able surprize" — Introduction to Colonel Chapman and other 
military officers— Disappointment in consequence of the arrival 
of a French fleet, and the landing of General Hoche at Bantry 
Bay — Arrival at Longford — Journey to Drogheda — Advance 
and surrender of General Humbert — Passage from Ireland to 
the Isle of Man — Hospitable reception at Douglas — A strange 
dinner party, and whimsical duel .... 506 



CONTENTS. XI. 

CHAP. XIII. 

A more respectable dinner party than that described in the 
last Chapter — Cautions and advice respecting our conduct, and 
those we choose for companions — The towns of Douglas and 
Whitehaven contrasted — Journey from the latter place to New- 
castle upon Tyne ; kind reception and lucrative concert there — 
Arrival in Durham ; description of its romantic situation and 
charming scenery — Humanity and active benevolence of the 
Clergy — Character of Dr. Barrington, the present Bishop — In- 
troduction to Mr. Smelt, and visit to that gentleman — Proceeds 
to Hull — Series of distressing events — Quits Hull for London, 
intending to proceed to America ; is prevailed upon to remain 
in England; receives great kindness from the Archbishop of 
Dublin, the Misses Metcalfe, Lady Hawarden, and Mr. Burdon 
of Hartford 542 

CONCLUSION. 

The Count quits London for the City of Durham, where he 
takes up his final abode 377 



MEMOIRS, 



CHAP. I. 



Apology — Birth — Some account of my family — Visit 
to the Starostin de Caorlix ; cause of my leaving 
that noble lady, and my residence with the Countess 
HumiecJca— Visit to the Pacha of Hochim — Ar- 
rival at Vienna; introduction to the Qiieen of 
Hungary — Journey to Munich and Luneville : in- 
troduction to Stanislaus, King of Poland—Visit to 
the Queen of Prance at Versailles — Arrival at 
Paris ; affectionate attention of the Duke of Or- 
leans ; anecdote of the Duchess of Modena, fyc. Sfc. 

XT is so uncommon to find reason and senti- 
ment, with noble and delicate affections, in 
a man whom nature, as it were, seemed un- 

c 



14 

able to make up, and who in size has the ap- 
pearance of a child, that, being persuaded no 
body would ever take the trouble to cast an 
eye upon these Memoirs, I began to commit 
to paper some of the principal events of my 
life, merely by way of memorandums, for my 
own use only, to remind me of the different 
situations I had been in, and to recal to my 
memory scenes too interesting, and emotions 
too strong, to be suffered to perish in obli- 
vion. As the reflections which I shall have 
occasion to make can be interesting only to 
those who delight in following nature through 
all her varieties, and who consequently may 
be curious to see a being like me assimilate 
himself to creatures of a common size, as to 
his ideas, pursuits, sentiments, and passions, 
and as persons of my description are apt to 
be looked upon by the multitude as sunk far 
beneath other men, both in body and mind, 
I should not have taken the liberty of pre- 
senting them to the public, had not persons, 



15 

to whom I ought not to refuse any thing, im- 
posed it upon me as a duty. May I be so 
happy in offering them this tribute of my gra- 
titude, as to convince them how deeply sen- 
sible I am of the interest they have taken in 
my concerns. 

I was born in the environs of Cbaliez, the 
capital of Pokucia, in Polish Russia, to which 
place my father had retired with his family, 
in consequence of the loss of his estate near 
the Borosthenes. My mother was of the 
middle size, and from her account my father 
was of the same : I do not recollect him, as 
he was killed during my infancy. They had 
six children, five sons and one daughter ; and 
by one of those sports of nature for which it 
is impossible to account, or perhaps to find 
another instance of in the annals of the hu- 
man species, three of those children grew to 
above the middle stature, whilst the two 
others, like myself, reached only that of chil- 



16 

dren in general at the age of four years. I 
am the third of this family. My eldest bro- 
ther was near three inches taller than I am, 
and constantly enjoyed a robust constitution. 
My second brother was of a handsome figure, 
but delicate in his constitution : he was killed 
in battle with my uncle at the age of twenty- 
six, and was at that time six feet four inches 
high. Those who came into the world after 
me were alternately tall and short. Among 
them was a sister, who died at the age of 
/ twenty. She was at that time only two feet 
four inches high, and to a lovely figure uni- 
ted an admirably well-proportioned shape. 
It was easy to judge from the very instant of 
my birth that I should be extremely short, 
being at that time only eight inches in length, 
yet notwithstanding this diminutive propor- 
tion, I was neither weak nor puny ; on the 
contrary, my mother has often declared that 
none of her children gave her less trouble. I 
walked and was able to speak at the same age 



17 

as other infants, and my growth was slowly 
progressive till the age of thirty years, when 
I was three feet three inches high. This is 
the size at which I remained fixed. My bro- 
ther, as well as myself, grew till thirty years 
of age, and at that period ceased to grow. I 
had scarcely entered my ninth year when my 
father died, and left my mother with six chil- 
dren, and a very small share of the favours of 
fortune ; a circumstance which may account 
for the part I have since acted in the world. 
Had it not been for this, I should undoubt- 
edly have passed my days in a province on 
the banks of the Dniester, where I might 
have experienced more happiness. 

A friend of my mother, the Starostin de 
Caoriix, who had shown me much affection, 
and had often solicited my parents to commit 
my education to her care, now availed herself 
of the embarrassed circumstances of our 
family to repeat her kind offers to my mother, 
who, painful as the separation must have been, 



18 

yielded to the desire of making me happy, 
and consented, though not without tears, to 
part with me ; and the lady took me to her 
estate, which was not far from my mother's 
abode. We had no sooner arrived there, than 
the Starostin, eager to fulfil her promises to my 
mother, bestowed upon me all the care that 
my age required. I lived with her a little 
time ; and the fondness of my benefactress no 
way diminishing, I was likely to be fixed for 
ever with her, when an unexpected event 
changed the face of things. Lady de Caorlix 
was a widow, somewhat advanced in years, but 
still blooming and graceful, and mistress of a 
large fortune. The Count de Tarnow, who 
had been drawn by business to the neighbour- 
hood, paid his court to her, and I soon per- 
ceived that she highly distinguished him 
above all the persons who composed her so- 
ciety. She became pensive and absent, and 
seemed to be no longer amused with my little 
prattle, so that I was not surprised at soon 



19 

after beholding Hymen unite these two 
lovers. I was not unconscious of the altera- 
tion my situation would experience by their 
marriage. I perceived that my protectress, 
by taking a husband, had procured herself a 
master, and that, should I chance to displease 
him, I was in danger of being grievously 
embarrassed, as my family affairs, which were 
totally deranged, left me no resource. How- 
ever, young as I was, I considered it to be 
my duty to be more than ever assiduous in 
my efforts to please, that I might render my- 
self agreeable to the husband of my benefac- 
tress ; and I think I should have succeeded, 
had not a new event given rise to other pro- 
jects. This happy couple were congratulated 
on the event of their marriage by all their 
friends, among whom they numbered the 
Countess Humiecka. 

This lady, who was descended from one of 
the most ancient families in Poland, was held 
in the highest esteem in that country, not more 



20 

for her birth and wealth, than for her personal 
attractions. Her estate being situated near 
the seat of the Starostin, she had frequent op- 
portunities of seeing me, and seemed to have 
some affection for me, as she often expressed 
what pleasure she should feel if I would come 
and live wi^h her at Rychty. My answers to 
her obliging offers gained me her friendship 
more and more, and she immediately wrote 
to my mother, to beg she would give me leave 
to go and live with her, mentioning the mar- 
riage of the Starostin as a circumstance that 
might deprive me of my happiness in future. 
My mother was pleased with her request, 
and allowed me to be under her protection. 
After this favourable answer from my mother, 
the Countess Humiecka formed the resolu- 
tion to ask me of the Countess de Tarnow, 
and only waited for a favourable opportunity, 
which soon after presented itself. The cir- 
cumstance of the Countess de Tarnow, my 
protectress, being likely to become a mother, 



21 

furnished the Countess Humiecka with a 
pretext. Being one day with the married 
pair, she artfully insinuated, that maternal 
love would prevent the Countess from sharing 
her tenderness with me when the infant should 
be born, and concluded by offering to take me 
home with her, promising faithfully the great- 
est care of my little person, and of my future 
welfare. Whether they feared that the new 
object of their tenderness might impede their 
attention to my future education, or whether 
they were unwilling to disoblige the Count- 
ess, they made but a slight opposition, and 
declared that they left it to me, and to my 
mother's decision. I was absent : the ser- 
vant who came to fetch me informed me of 
what had passed. I entered the apartment 
quite prepared with my answer, and assured 
the Countess, that if the Lady de Tarnow, 
whose bounty rendered her the mistress of 
my fate, deigned to grant me her consent, I 
should deem myself happy to live under the 

D 



22 

protection of the Countess, and would follow 
my inclination, as much as my duty, in ear- 
nestly endeavouring to deserve her kindness. 
The Countess Humiecka seemed overjoyed 
at my consent. " I am very glad," said she, 
" my dear Joujou" (for so they called me), 
" to see you have no reluctance to come and 
live with me." Then addressing the Count 
and Countess de Tarnow, " You cannot re- 
tract," she said, " I have your word, and 
that of Joujou and his mother, to whom I 
wrote before." The remainder of the visit 
passed in compliments, and our departure 
was fixed for the next day. 

Great as were the obligations I was under 
to the Countess de Tarnow, yet being at that 
time but a child, and not having arrived at 
that maturity of mind, which might enable me 
to reflect on her benevolent disposition, I 
was easily reconciled to my separation from 
her, having my head filled with the lively 
picture my protectress had given me of the 



23 

pleasures I should enjoy at her house. She 
carried me to her estate at Rychty, in Podo- 
lia, where we stayed some time, and where 
she received a visit from a Pacha of Hochim, 
a Turkish city near Rychty. This Turkish 
grandee, not more eminently distinguished 
by his rank of Pacha, than by his amiable, 
polite, and affable manners, invited my bene- 
factress to visit his palace at Hochim. I was 
present at his invitation, and with great 
pleasure heard him politely request that I 
might accompany the Countess, declaring 
that a sight of the seraglio would afford me 
entertainment. I went with the Countess, 
and on our arrival we were received with all 
the honours due to the rank of my protec- 
tress. As for me, I felt quite happy, and 
was much caressed in the palace, where they 
had been apprised of our coming. We were 
served, amongst other entertainments, with 
an elegant collation after the Turkish fashion, 
in which the sherbet was not spared. I was 



24 

highly delighted with the expectation of 
being admitted into the seraglio, of which I 
had heard the Pacha speak, but I had no 
idea of it at that time, my benefactress 
having merely told me that they were grand 
apartments, which contained many pretty 
things. How agreeably was I surprised when 
I beheld about twenty beautiful women, all 
graced with manners the most polite, and a 
behaviour the most tender and affectionate ! 
Yet notwithstanding all the dazzling lustre of 
eastern beauty, had Mahomet, proud as he 
was of those enchanting females, who served 
him as models from whence to furnish his fic- 
titious paradise with Houries, been fortunate 
enough to behold those exquisite specimens of 
beauty of which England, Scotland, and Ire- 
land so justly boast, he must have bent his 
knee in humble acknowledgment of their 
superiority. I shall not enter into a particu- 
lar description of the seraglio, as it exactly 
resembled those so often described by travel- 



25 

lers, of whom, however, none have been admit- 
ted like me by special favour within the in- 
terior apartments, the smallness of my stature 
having procured me this very particular 
honour. 

Her Ladyship now determined to visit 
Germany, France, and other countries, and 
being desirous to have me with her, I felt 
the greatest pleasure in the flattering idea 
which I entertained of these travels. The 
requisite preparations being completed, we 
set out for Vienna. After a very fatiguing 
journey of some days, we reached the neigh- 
bourhood of Zurawno, where we stopped 
some months. We there saw a manufactory 
of gunpowder, and the lake of Zurawno, 
which is in length three Polish miles, and in 
breadth one. We observed that the boat at 
this lake was made very broad, and high in 
proportion, to prevent the vast numbers of 
fish which abound there from leaping into it, 
and oversetting it, as many accidents have 



26 



happened from their voracious disposition. 
This lake belongs to the great General of 
Lithuania, Count Oginski. 

After a long and dull stay in this retired 
spot, we proceeded to Vienna, where the re- 
port of our arrival was no sooner spread, than 
we were visited, invited, and entertained with 
the utmost eagerness. Soon after we had 
the honour to be presented to her Imperial 
Majesty the Queen of Hungary, who was 
graciously pleased to say that I exceeded by 
far all that she had heard of me, and that I 
was one of the most astonishing beings she 
had ever seen. At that time this great Prin- 
cess was engaged in a war with the King of 
Prussia, and by her firmness, courage, and 
wisdom, had rendered herself no less terrible 
to her enemies than dear to her subjects. I 
had the honour to be one day in her apart- 
ment, when her courtiers were compliment- 
ing her on a victory obtained by her army, 
of which every one extolled the advantage- 



27 

©us consequences, so that, according to their 
account, the King of Prussia was likely to be 
soon reduced to the last extremity. The 
Empress, near whom I was standing, asked 
me how the King of Prussia was looked upon 
in Poland, and what opinion I entertained of 
that Prince. " Madam," I answered, " I 
have not the honour to know him ; but were 
I in his place, instead of losing my time in 
waging a useless war against you, I would 
come to Vienna, and pay my respects to you, 
deeming it a thousand times more glorious 
to gain your esteem and friendship, than to 
obtain the most complete victories over your 
troops." Her Majesty seemed much pleased 
with my reply, clasped me in her arms, and 
said to my benefactress, she esteemed her 
very happy in having so pleasing a com- 
panion in her travels. At another time when, 
according to her desire, I had performed a 
Polish dance in the presence of this Sove- 
reign, she took me on her lap, and after hav- 



28 

ing fondly caressed me, and asked me many 
questions, how I spent my time, she wished 
to know what I found at Vienna most curious 
and interesting. I answered, I had seen 
there many things worthy of a traveller's ad- 
miration, but nothing seemed to me so ex- 
traordinary as what I beheld at this moment. 
" And what is that ?" said her Majesty. " It 
is," replied I, " to see so little a man on the lap 
of so great a woman." This answer gained 
me new caresses. The Empress had on her 
finger a ring, upon which her cypher was set 
in brilliants with the most exquisite work- 
manship. My hand being by chance locked 
in hers, I happened to look upon the ring at- 
tentively, which she perceived, and asked 
whether the cypher was pretty. " I beg your 
Majesty's pardon," replied I, " it is not the 
ring I admire, but the hand which I beseech 
you give me leave to kiss j" and with these 
words I took it to my lips. The Empress 
seemed charmed at this little gallantry, and 



29 

would have presented me with the ring which 
had caused it ; but the circle proving too 
wide, she called to a young Princess about 
six years old, took from her finger a very 
fine brilliant she wore, and put it on mine. 
This young Princess was the unfortunate 
Queen of France, wife of Louis XVI. 

It is easy to conceive that the kind notice 
with which the Empress honoured me, pro- 
cured me the attention of other Courts of 
Europe. We stayed at Vienna, to the best 
of my recollection, only six months, during 
which time, my benefactress availed herself 
of the opportunity of having me taught dan- 
cing by Mr. Angelini, the ballet master to 
the Court, who has since by his eminent ta- 
lents in the art, and his taste for literature, 
rendered himself so famous. Being obliged 
to depart, I could not improve under his care 
so much as I wished : yet my protectress 
could not forbear expressing to him with 
raptures, her thanks for what she was pleased 



30 

to call my great progress, before we set off 
for Bavaria. Arriving at Munich, we were 
most graciously welcomed by his Electoral 
Highness ; and it seemed I excited no less 
curiosity there than at Vienna. The Prin- 
cess Christiana, and two other Royal Polish 
Princesses,/ who were with the Electress their 
sister, on account of the war between Saxony 
and Prussia, honoured me with their atten- 
tion, and engaged me in their hunting party. 
During our stay, which was not long, and 
which presented nothing particular, we spent 
our time in pleasure and entertainments. 

On leaving Munich, we repaired to Lune- 
ville, where Stanislaus Lesczinski, the titular 
King of Poland, held his- Court. I could 
not help being filled with respect, admira- 
tion, and astonishment, at seeing this vener- 
able Prince, who, after such an agitated life, 
after having undergone the most fatal re- 
verses of fortune, still preserved, at the age 
of eighty years, all the faculties of his soul, 



31 

and employed them with so much energy to 
promote the happiness of his new subjects. 
I was struck with his noble aspect, his mild 
and affable look, his serene and dignified de- 
portment. I immediately recollected the im- 
pression he made at first sight upon Charles 
the Twelfth. It is known that this extraor- 
dinary Monarch, after having conversed with 
him for a quarter of an hour, said to the 
Generals who composed his retinue, " This 
is the man who shall be King of Poland !" 
It is also known how Charles kept his word ; 
how Stanislaus, after the disgraces of his 
friend, saw himself stripped of that crown to 
which he had aspired, only from his con- 
sciousness of the good he might do to his 
own country ; how, when he was recalled to 
the throne, an adverse faction, supported by 
foreigners, rendered the efforts and hopes of 
the soundest part of the nation useless and 
vain. The dangers are likewise well known 
to which he was exposed, and the disguises 



to which he was obliged to submit, in order 
to effect an escape from his enemies. It is 
known, too, that at last peace having secured 
him the tranquil possession of the Dukedoms 
of Lorraine and Bar, he carefully employed 
himself to make those people lose the re- 
membrance of their ancient masters. Need 
I tell here all that he did for that purpose ? 
I will only say, that his buildings at Nancy 
and Luneville appeared to me far superior to 
all that I had seen in other countries. On 
our arrival, this Monarch received us with 
that bounty and affability which gained him 
the affection of every heart ; and being of his 
own country, we were by his order lodged in 
his palace. 

With this Prince lived the famous Bebe, 
till then considered as the most extraordi- 
nary creature, for the smallness of his sta- 
ture, that was ever seen. He possessed in- 
deed a perfectly proportioned shape, with 
very pleasing features, but (I am sorry to say 



it, for the honour of our species) had in his 
mind and way of thinking, all the defects 
commonly attributed to us. He was at that 
time about thirty, and on our being measured, 
it appeared that I was much less in size. At 
our first interview he shewed much fondness 
and friendship towards me ; but when he per- 
ceived that I preferred the company and 
conversation of persons of sense to his own, 
and above all, when he saw that the King 
took pleasure in my company, he conoeived 
a most violent jealousy, and I saw fury 
sparkle in his eyes. It was during my stay 
at Luneville, that I had the honour to cul- 
tivate an acquaintance with the celebrated 
Count de Tressan, who was come to reside 
there a little while. He took much notice 
of me, and it was he who made mention of 
me in the Encyclopaedia. After having seen 
and admired all that King Stanislaus had 
done to embellish Nancy and Luneville, we 
took leave of this amiable Prince, who gave 



34 

my benefactress letters for the late Queen of 
France, his daughter, and repaired to Paris. 

I need not say, that the first care of the 
Countess Humiecka was to go to Versailles, 
where, as a native of Poland, she easily ob- 
tained admittance to the Queen, to whom 
she delivered the letters with which the King 
had honoured her. This Princess, who had 
preserved much aifection for every thing be- 
longing to her own country, received her 
Ladyship most graciously. Her Majesty, 
being informed that I was along with my 
benefactress, wished to see me. She was 
astonished at my appearance, the smallness 
of which she had no idea of; and after hav- 
ing asked me many questions concerning the 
King her father, Bebe, and Poland, and our 
travels, she seemed pleased with my answers, 
and did me so much honour as to add that 
I was a little prodigy ; that from what she 
had seen or been told, she had, till then, 
deemed the individuals of my species to be 



85 

ill-treated by nature, as much in mind and 
intellectual faculties as in body, but that I 
had undeceived her in a very advantageous 
and pleasing manner. After these obliging- 
words, the Queen, addressing the Countess 
Humiecka, was so kind as to engage her 
often to repeat her visits, desiring that she 
would bring me with her, and gave orders to 
admit us whenever we desired it. 

On our return to Paris, the curiosity I ex- 
cited drew many visitors to my protectress, 
so that I became like Gulliver with his mas- 
ter the farmer ; for in less than a week every 
person of high rank at court, and every per- 
son of fashion in town, waited upon her. I 
cannot help expressing how infinitely I was 
flattered by this warm enthusiasm, and by 
the numberless civilities with which I was 
honoured. The Duke of Orleans, father to 
him who unfortunately lost his life, having 
given my protectress the most elegant enter- 
tainments, evinced a particular regard for 



36 

me, and loaded me with caresses. I can 
even say that, during our stay at Paris, this 
amiable Prince did not pass a single day 
without giving me fresh testimonies of his 
politeness. The ecstacy I excited, and the 
frequent conversations which passed about 
my figure, gave rise to an incident which, 
had not the Queen interposed, might have 
proved of disagreeable consequence to the 
Polish ladies who travelled in France, as you 
will see. 

It happened by chance that the Duchess 
of Modena, a Princess of the blood royal of 
France, had not been at any of the enter- 
tainments to which I had been invited. 
However, her Grace had heard much of me, 
and all that she had been told excited a 
strong curiosity to see me. Her rank not 
permitting her to pay the first visit to the 
Countess Humiecka, she determined to write 
to her, and request her company at a rout 
which she gave ; and as I was the principal 



37 

person she desired to see, she added in the 
card, " especially, do not forget to bring 
Joujou." The Countess Humiecka, who 
possessed all the sentiments correspondent 
to her illustrious birth, and whose rank, 
beauty, and wealth, had drawn on her, every- 
where, the most flattering distinctions, was 
greatly offended at such an invitation ; and 
not thinking proper to gratify a curiosity 
disclosed in so awkward and impolite a man- 
ner, answered that she was very sorry she 
could not comply with her Grace's commands : 
she was engaged on that day and the follow- 
ing, so that she could not say when she might 
have the honour. The Duchess of Modena, 
who understood perfectly the meaning of this 
answer, was very much incensed, and com- 
plained of it to every one she met. She even 
went so far as to carry her complaints to the 
Queen ; imagining that her Majesty, being a 
Polander, would blame my benefactress for 
it. I am inclined to believe that the Queen, 



38 

who had a great regard for persons of her 
own nation, inwardly thought that the Coun- 
tess was right. However, wishing to settle 
this trifle, which she was afraid might termi- 
nate in causing some uneasiness to my bene- 
factress, she sent for her, and engaged her to 
pay a visit to the Duchess of Modena. The 
Duchess answered, that from respect for her 
Majesty's orders, she would go, but certainly 
would not take Joujou with her ; upon which, 
the Queen, foreseeing that such a visit might 
only widen the breach, dropped the conver- 
sation, and before they parted invited the 
Duchess to come and breakfast with her 
Majesty two days after, and to bring me with 
her. She sent afterwards another invitation 
to the Duchess, for the same day, without 
making known to either of these ladies that 
they were to meet. On the appointed day 
we waited upon the Queen, and arrived first. 
But what a surprise was it to us, when some 
minutes after, we heard the name of the 



39 

Duchess of Modena announced ! This Prin- 
cess, who was at first no less astonished than 
the Countess, came, however, to herself very 
soon ; and after she had paid her duty to the 
Queen, she and the Countess saluted each 
other with the usual compliments, and, as if 
nothing had happened, reciprocally declared 
the pleasure they had in seeing, and the de- 
sire they felt to know, each other. The 
Duchess even went so far as not to take no- 
tice of me for some minutes ; but soon banish- 
ing this constraint, the caresses, praises, and 
attentions of this respectable old Princess 
proved how great was her enthusiasm. 

We continued to be visited and entertain- 
ed by the most considerable amongst the 
nobility and financiers. The celebrated Mr. 
Bouret especially, who was Farmer General, 
gave an entertainment, in which, to show 
that it was given for my sake, he caused every 
thing, even the plates, spoons, knives, and 
forks to be proportioned to my size ; and the 



• 40 

eatables, consisting of ortolans, becaficos, and 
other small game of that kind, to be served 
upon dishes suitable to them. We spent, in 
this agreeable manner, more than a year at 
Paris, enjoying all the pleasures which that 
capital offers to foreigners : and the lively 
humour, the cheerfulness, and politeness of 
its inhabitants, made our stay delightful. 



CHAP. II. 

Departure from Paris for Holland ; description cf 
that country — Arrival at the Hague ; polite atten- 
tion of the Stadtholder — Journey through Germany 
to Poland ; arrival at Warsaw and reception there 
— Gracious offer of King Stanislaus II. to bestow an 
estate upon me — My affection for Isalina • conse- 
quent displeasure of the Countess Humiecka, who 
dismisses me — Kindness of Prince Cassimir — The 
King grants me a pension — My marriage with 
Isalina — Pecuniary difficulties oblige me to leave 
Warsaw — Return to Vienna — Journey through 
Hungary and part of Turkey. 

The time at length came, when we were 
obliged to leave Paris, from whence we set off 
for Holland. Every body knows how the 
soul of a traveller is impressed by the novelty 
of the scenes which this country affords. It 
was then the month of May, a season in 



42 

which the country presents the most agree- 
able appearance ; and I was struck with it in 
so lively a manner, that, notwithstanding the 
sameness so justly complained of, I cannot 
recal to my mind, without emotion, the sensa- 
tions I then felt. Were I to enter into the 
particulars of the polite reception we met 
with, I should but repeat what I have said in 
my former book : I shall therefore only ob- 
serve, that when we arrived at the Hague, the 
Countess Humiecka was received in the most 
affable and polite manner by his Highness the 
Prince Stadtholder and his family, who did 
their utmost to make her stay agreeable. We, 
however, formed but few acquaintances there ; 
and not being able to stay long in Holland, 
we employed ourselves in viewing the curi- 
osities with which this country abounds ; and 
at last, after having taken leave of the Stadt- 
holder, my benefactress directed her route 
through Germany, and we reached Warsaw. 
My return to my native country made much 



43 

noise. I had not yet been seen in the capi- 
tal, but was preceded by the reputation I had 
acquired in my travels, for which I was in- 
debted to the generous care of my benefac- 
tress. Besides, I had improved much during 
my stay in foreign countries ; and as my re- 
sidence at Paris had given me somewhat of 
that easy politeness, and those graceful man- 
ners, which set off the most trifling discourse, 
I was so happy as to perceive, that many per- 
sons, by whom I was at first looked upon as 
an object of mere curiosity, now wished for 
my society, because they took pleasure in my 
conversation. Emboldened by this notice, I 
went oftener to assemblies than I had hitherto 
done ; and wishing to enlarge the circle of 
my acquaintance, I cultivated an intimacy 
with some young gentlemen of my own age, 
whose company seemed to me more gay and 
interesting than that of those persons who 
were in the habit of frequenting the Countess 
Humiecka's house. I had inspired my pro- 



44 

tectress with confidence enough, to induce 
her to allow me a reasonable degree of liberty ; 
and I availed myself of it, by going frequently 
to the play, of which I had always been an 
admirer. The new sensations which began 
to rise in my breast, were now increased by 
the intemperate life of my young friends, 
who, yielding to the dictates of that indiscre- 
tion natural to their age, indulged without 
scruple the impulses of their lively imagina- 
tions. But my benefactress, who was not 
ignorant of this affair, sent to me a very wise 
and sensible man, in whom I had the greatest 
confidence. He strongly remonstrated with 
me on the irregularity of my behaviour, and 
set forth the fatal consequences into which I 
was likely to be hurried. His observations 
affected me : I promised never more to fre- 
quent the company of these young men, 
whose bad example had seduced me ; and by 
the regularity of my conduct, I soon regained 
the kindness of the Countess, and the plea- 



45 

sure of her society. I had no occasion to 
repent the change : my life became quieter 
and more happy, and I now began to perceive 
the emptiness of those pleasures, which I had 
enjoyed in the society of my last companions. 
At that time Warsaw was the scene of 
rejoicings and amusements. Stanislaus the 
Second had lately ascended the throne of 
Poland. This Prince (on whose virtues and 
accomplishments I need not expatiate, as 
they are known to all who had the honour 
of approaching him, either as a king or 
as a private man) was applying himself to 
retrieve those innumerable calamities, which a 
series of troubles and agitations had occasion- 
ed. By his patronage the arts and sciences 
were flourishing, and he gained by his good- 
ness the affections of his greatest Lords, who 
flocked round his person, to evince their 
attachment. In the midst of these rejoicings 
his Majesty came to supper on Twelfth Night, 
with the Princess Lubomirska, where I was 

g 



46 

invited by the Countess Humiecka. The 
cake being opened, I was chosen king, and 
had the honour to enter into conversation 
with his Majesty, when I entreated his per- 
mission to lay aside, i in his presence, the 
prerogative of my newly-attained royalty. 
This proposition from me afforded great 
diversion to the King, who turned to the 
Countess, and deigned to signify that my 
behaviour gave him much pleasure, and said 
he was inclined, as a mark of his royal favour, 
to bestow an estate upon me. But my pro- 
tectress's countenance too plainly bespoke 
her disapprobation of his generous offer, to 
admit of its being carried into effect. In this 
state of tranquillity my days glided away, and 
I thought that no kind of vexation could 
disturb so happy a life. I was then very far 
from foreseeing, that those delicate and tender 
sentiments, upon which was grounded my 
expectation of future felicity, would one day 
be the cause of disquietude and bitterness of 



47 

heart, and would throw so heavy a cloud over 
my existence. 

I am now entering into the particulars of 
those events, which I shall always regard as 
the most interesting epoch of my life. Those 
moments, which became fraught with new 
ideas, new desires, and pleasures far different 
from those I had hitherto known, brought 
likewise new troubles and new difficulties, to 
which I had never thought I should be ex- 
posed. The Countess Humiecka's bounty 
seemed likely for ever to secure me from 
want, as her Ladyship's favour had drawn on 
me the consideration and regard, not only of 
every person in her house, but even of all the 
people of quality that composed her society. 
I did not foresee the probability of ever being 
deprived of her friendship, nor did I feel in 
my heart the fear of ever becoming unworthy 
of it. I was caressed, fondled, and cherished. 
Nothing was wanting to my happiness ; and 
I enjoyed it with so much the more security, 



48 

as I had experienced no reverses, and foolish- 
ly thought I should never have any to endure ; 
as reason and good advice had brought me 
back to steady conduct and more quiet sen- 
timents. But I knew not my own heart, 
and all those rine expectations vanished, from 
the moment I beheld a young female whom 
my benefactress had taken into her house. 

The Countess Humiecka had consulted 
only her own gratification when she took 
Isalina, for that was her name ; and this 
young lady possessed all the requisites to in- 
terest and please. Let me be excused from 
describing what she appeared in my eyes. 
Such as regard only personal appearance in 
the choice oi'their wedded partners, know very 
little of the human heart. To enable them 
to live happily together, and to have for each 
other that mutual esteem which alone can con- 
fer such happiness, more lasting qualities are 
requisite. I still know how to set a proper 
value on those advantages so much sought 



- 



49 

after, though they are only gifts which Nature 
blindly distributes ; and I must own, there is 
a personal beauty, which discloses that of the 
soul ; and when we meet with those tender, 
sweet, and lively countenances, which, being 
strangers to dissimulation and deceit, exhibit 
in their features the emotions they feel, and 
the impressions they receive, we must acknow- 
ledge, at the very first moment, that persons 
so happily endowed are worthy of all our 
attachment. It is among women especially, 
that this inestimable quality is to be found, 
which so advantageously sets off their charms. 
They possess it, notwithstanding all the ob- 
stacles that are opposed to it, though the aim 
of their education incessantly be to instruct 
them how to dissemble their sentiments, and 
conceal their natural affections. Perhaps at 
some future time, parents may have resolution 
and wisdom enough to overcome this preju- 
dice in training up their children. I see the 
evil ; but I know not the remedy, or rather, 
have not the courage to suggest it. 



50 

Such as I have described, was the young 
Isalina's beauty; which struck me at first 
sight, and subdued my heart. But if the 
impression of the moment was deep and 
indelible, conceive what new force must have 
been given to my feelings, when, by living in 
the same house, I had daily opportunities of 
seeing her, and of enjoying the pleasure of 
her lively conversation ! I discovered in her 
a never- failing vivacity, and those amiable 
dispositions which plainly bespoke a feeling 
heart. 

From this time my happiness was insepara- 
rably united with that of Isalina. I perceived 
in her all the symptoms of a mutual affection ; 
and, proud of the love with which I was con- 
scious she regarded me, (though numberless 
obstacles to my happiness presented them- 
selves to my view,) I determined not to give 
up my enterprize. The ardour of my affec- 
tion was, however, tempered with the respect 
and diffidence which are inseparable from a 



51 

a sincere attachment. I had made an im- 
pression on the tender heart of Isalina : and 
indeed, how could I fail, my love being 
guided by sincerity, and want of fortune in 
the lady proving my disinterestedness ? But 
these raptures were soon interrupted by the 
Countess. She was fully informed of, and 
saw with concern, my affection for Isalina, and 
was determined to use her utmost endeavours 
to frustrate our intentions. She sent Isalina 
immediately to her parents, and at the same 
time kept me in my room for a whole fortnight. 
Having thus confined me, she discharged my 
footman, and put another in his place, on 
whom she thought she could rely : but, con- 
trary to her expectation, he was entirely at 
my disposal ; for by his means I established a 
correspondence with my Isalina. 

Cagliostro, at the instigation of the Coun- 
tess, came to me a few days after, and ear- 
nestly solicited me to appease my benefac- 
tress, by renouncing Isalina. Without the 



59, 

least hesitation I boldly protested, I would 
sooner part with my life. The Countess Hu- 
miecka, perceiving me determined, became 
furious ; and, setting me at liberty, declared 
I had only to choose either to renounce my 
love for Isalina, or to quit her house immedi- 
ately. I preferred the latter alternative, as 
will be seen in the two following letters to 
Isalina ; and these are the only ones of our 
whole correspondence, with which I shall 
trouble my readers. 

« JOUJOU TO ISALINA. 

" My captivity, my charming friend, is now at an 
end. I have sacrificed all for your sake; and if I Jose 
you, I will renounce, yes, I will renounce life itself. 
This morning one of the principal officers of the 
house came with a message from the Countess, to in- 
form me, that if I had not changed my resolution, I 
must leave the house for ever. That is not possible, 
I answered ; but, reflecting on what conditions alone I 
could remain, I calmly added, I was ready to depart ; 
but I entreated he would tell my benefactress, how 
sincerely I was affected at incurring her resentment ; 
and I besought her to pardon my opposition to her 
will, to which nothing could have urged me, but the 



53 



dread of forfeiting all my happiness ; and that the 
kindness, with which she had formerly treated me, 
should never be erased from my memory. I was 
now at large; but, on beholding the house where I 
had so long been the darling, I burst into tears. 
How painful a situation to a heart like mine, which, 
while plunged in affliction, bore the reproach of in- 
gratitude for only obeying the impulse of true love ! 
I knew not whither to direct my course, pennyless, 
a forlorn wanderer : my situation was dreadful. Love 
alone could support me under it. Yes, love inspired 
me to address myself to Prince Casimir, the King's 
brother, whose affability and gentle manners you are 
well acquainted with. You are not ignorant, how 
much he interested himself in all that concerned me. 
I was not deceived in my expectation ; he knew every 
thing except my departure, at which he was much sur- 
prised. ' Make yourself easy, Joujou,' said he, 'you 
shall not want, I will never forsake you : come and 
see me soon : I will importune the King in your be- 
half ; you know he loves you, and I am sure he will 
protect you.' These kind expressions have animated 
my drooping spirits. Dear Isalina, be kind, and we 
shall yet be happy, but permit me to see you — to 
speak to you — and to repeat to you, a thousand and a 
thousand times, with my last breath, that you are all 
my happiness, the delight of the faithful and tender 

JOUJOU." 

Soon after I had thus addressed my dear 

H 



54 

Isalina, the Prince sent for me, and in the 
most condescending manner gave me his 
advice. I wrote as follows : — 

JOUJOU TO ISALINA. 

" The Prince sent for me this morning, my charm- 
ing friend. - How can I express to you my grateful 
sentiments for his numerous favours ! He asked me if 
I would return to the Countess Humiecka, and he 
would use all his influence to soften her ; or, if I were 
resolved to marry my dear Isalina : so he expressed 
himself. I answered him, that I was exceedingly 
sorry to have forfeited the protection of the Countess, 
but that my heart could never subscribe to her hard 
conditions. ' Obtain, then, the mother's consent,' re- 
plied this amiable Prince, ' and all will yet be well.' 
You see, my lovely friend, they think your senti- 
ments sympathize with mine. I durst not acknow- 
ledge I had not your consent : that would have spoil- 
ed all. Can you refuse it me, my kind Isalina ? Can 
you harbour a thought that would destroy the man 
who adores you ? I am to be presented to his Ma- 
jesty; he has promised his illustrious brother to pro- 
vide for me. Thus all our anxieties for subsistence 
cease. I expect a pension. Now my charmer, Isa- 
lina, I go to kneel at your mother's feet : she will 
yield to my supplication, seeing me so well protected. 
All my happiness is concentrated in my Isalina's ten- 
derness : but consider, that the least indifference, the 



55 

least delay, may destroy for ever the happiness of 

your tender and affectionate 

JOUJOU." 

I waited upon Isalina's mother, whose con- 
sent I obtained. I saw my fair friend again ; 
a friend whose inexhaustible fund of gaiety 
formed so happy a contrast to my present 
temper, that I soon buried in oblivion ail 
the vexations I had endured. The amiable 
Prince Casimir kept his word : he was so kind 
as to present me to his brother the King, 
who approved of my marriage, and granted 
me a pension of a hundred ducats. The 
Nuncio, who had been misinformed, wanted 
to prevent it by a ridiculous pretext of the 
Countess Humiecka. But the King prevailed 
over this obstacle ; and some time after, the 
performance of the ceremony broke all the 
barriers that had been opposed to my felicity. 
It is true, that I have sacrificed to this hap- 
piness, ease and tranquillity ; it has been to 
me the source of a thousand inquietudes, re- 



56 

specting the subsistence of Isalina and my- 
self for the future. Yet the enjoyment that 
I have derived from it, has taught me that 
nothing in this world is preferable to the sa- 
tisfaction of pouring our inquietudes, our 
distresses, and our fears, into the bosom of a 
friend so true, so dear, and so closely united j 
whose tender and feeling soul relieves our 
pains by sharing them, and enlivens our 
pleasures with a far greater delight. 

I should have been too happy in my new. 
state, if it had been possible that, minding 
only the present, I could have abstained from 
casting an eye on the future. But man is 
not formed for a pure and perfect felicity : 
disquietudes poison his enjoyments, and it 
but too often happens, that from these very 
enjoyments arise his disquietudes. 

Notwithstanding my inexperience, I soon 
perceived that the King's favours would 
hardly be sufficient- for our maintenance; 
and my susceptible mind, severely anticipa- 



57 

ting the necessities to which my Isalina must 
submit, the liveliness of my feeling towards 
her still increased the bitterness and horror 
of my reflections. Although accustomed to 
the luxuiy and magnificence, which had sur- 
rounded us in the house of my benefactress, 
yet without grief, and even with a degree of 
pleasure, we should have embraced a middle 
station of life ; the only one, perhaps, which 
gives to the tender and delicate sentiments 
their full scope and energy. But the ques- 
tion was not respecting a mode of living more 
or less expensive, as we were likely to want 
even necessaries ; and I confess, that the idea 
of seeing my beloved Isalina involved in 
misery, did not permit me long to enjoy the 
happiness of possessing her. It was necessary 
to take some step ; but my choice was so 
much the more difficult, in my having receiv- 
ed no other education than that which the 
Countess Humiecka had bestowed on me. I 
possessed, at most, a few agreeable talents, 



58 

which could not now afford me any sufficient 
resource. 

In this perplexity my protectors were the 
first who suggested to me the idea of a se- 
cond journey. Prince Casimir, especially, re- 
commended this project. He intimated to 
me, that, having been kindly received in the 
principal Courts of Europe, when I accom- 
panied the Countess Humiecka, I should be 
again received with the same pleasure ; and 
when it should be known that I was without 
fortune, my situation would increase the in- 
terest I had inspired, and in a creditable 
manner procure me the means of leading, at 
my return, a peaceful and tranquil life. I 
consented to this scheme ; I spoke of it to the 
King, who not only approved of my plan, 
but, wishing to grant me a particular testi- 
mony of his bounty, ordered the Master of the 
Horse to supply me with a convenient coach. 
Having, therefore, taken all necessary mea- 
sures, and being provided with letters of re- 



59 

commendation, I left Warsaw, and reached 
Vienna. 

Unluckily for me, death had, just before, 
deprived the world of the illustrious Maria 
Theresa. Mourning and sorrow, in conse- 
quence, pervaded this capital : the deepest 
grief was impressed upon all hearts. Public 
entertainments, and even concerts, were sus- 
pended. They talked of nothing, but of the 
loss that had befallen them : they spoke of 
the magnanimity with which this heroine had 
supported adversity. They recollected those 
disastrous times, when, forced to leave her 
residence, and, holding her son in her arms, 
she had excited amongst the Hungarians that 
patriotic ferment, which had impelled them 
to do so much for her sake. Whilst they 
expatiated, with complacency, upon the 
means she employed to re-establish her affairs, 
and upon the glorious treaty which had put 
an end to a war, threatening her, in its origin, 
with total destruction. On the other hand, 



60 

with new regret they enumerated the pains 
she had since taken, and the care she had 
bestowed, to restore such of her provinces as 
had been desolated by war, and to render 
most advantageous to her subjects, the peace 
she had procured for them. 

In the midst of this general mourning, I 
renewed my acquaintance with most of the 
noblemen I had had the honour to see in my 
former travels. I may even venture to say, 
that his Excellency the Prince de Kaunitz 
received my visit with every mark of pleasure. 
As at that time his Imperial Majesty, Joseph 
the Second, held no Court, all the nobility 
assembled every evening in the Prince's 
hotel, where his relation, the Countess Cla- 
rissa, received his guests. He did me so 
much honour, as to present me to this assem- 
bly, and engage me to come often and spend 
the evening. There I had the honour to 
become acquainted with his Excellency Sir 
Robert Murray Keith, the British Ambassa- 



61 

dor, who was afterwards the principal cause 
of my coming to England. There also I had 
occasion to be convinced, that the manifold 
occupations of the Prince de Kaunitz, (the 
burden of which was lightened by his su- 
perior talent, so well known to every one, of 
comprehending at one view the most exten- 
sive and complicated affairs) did not hinder 
him from looking on the minutest objects, 
the least worthy affixing his attention. For, 
having sent for the measure of my size, which 
he had taken care to procure when I was at 
Vienna in the year 1761, with the Countess Hu- 
miecka, he shewed to us, that from that time 
to 1781 I had grown upwards of ten inches ; 
which appeared as surprising to those who, 
not having seen me before, could not con- 
ceive how I, being at that moment hardly in 
size like a child, could have ever been ten 
inches shorter ; as to those who having seen 
me twenty years before, thought they ob- 
served in me as much difference as there is 



62 

between a youth of twelve and a grown man 
of thirty. 

Notwithstanding these nattering appear- 
ances, and the professions of friendship I re- 
ceived, my journey did not answer my in- 
tended purpose. My chances of success 
were grounded upon a concert ; and though 
I was obliged to wait till the mourning was 
over, I had, in addition to this, other diffi- 
culties to overcome. A number of perform- 
ers were inscribed on the catalogue at the 
Royal theatre j and if I had been obliged to 
wait for my turn, I must have been kept 
a great while back. Happily for me, my 
friend, Mr. Gunter, Secretary to his Imperial 
Majesty, so earnestly pressed Mr. Dorval, 
the manager of the house, that I was prefer- 
red before the others ; and they were even so 
kind, as to take the management for me, and 
to conduct the concert and the expences. 
I was so fortunate as to be honoured with a 
numerous assembly, almost all the nobility 



63 

being present. I attempted, in a short 
speech, to express to them my gratitude : 
I wished likewise to make an apology before 
those noblemen who, twenty years ago, hav- 
ing seen me surrounded with the eclat of 
greatness, now beheld me reduced to the sad 
necessity of appearing in public, and exhibit- 
ing a reverse of fortune, in some degree re- 
sembling that of Belisarius. I was at that 
time very far from thinking, that, through a 
necessity of providing for the most essential 
wants of life, I should ever be obliged to ex- 
pose myself to public view for money. 

Next day the Prince de Kaunitz spoke to 
me, in a most polite manner, amidst a crowd- 
ed levee. His Excellency, Sir Robert Mur- 
ray Keith, was present : he prevailed upon 
me to go over to England in preference to 
France, which was the country I intended 
first to have visited. The Prince seconded 
this advice, and earnestly desired the Am- 
bassador to interest himself for me. His 



64 

Excellency promised me letters of recom- 
mendation to the greatest personages at the 
British court, for which the Prince made 
him an acknowledgment, and assured him 
he would seek every opportunity to shew 
him how sensible he was of all that was done 
for his little friend. 

If all those reasons did not entirely pre- 
vail, they had at least some influence upon 
me ; and I resolved to leave Vienna, being 
supplied with letters of recommendation to 
many Princes of Germany, and to the courts 
of other kingdoms. But I previously made 
a journey to Presburg in Hungary. To de- 
fray the expences of this tour, I staid there 
only so long as was necessary, in order to 
give a concert ; and from thence I went to 
Bucharest, Wallachia, Bender, Belgrade, A- 
drianople, and other places which I wished 
to see. 

I must not forget to mention the kind 
welcome I met with in Turkish countries ; 



65 

and from all the observations I could pos- 
sibly make upon the people, I remarked 
that they are not so bad in the principles of 
their minds as has often been reported of 
them. In this respect indeed, they seemed 
to me far superior to the Arabians, whose 
country I also visited. These I found to be 
susceptible of passions no otherwise than as 
brute animals. A traveller's life is in danger, 
in passing through those countries, where the 
government is unsettled, and the inhabitants 
are continually at war among themselves. 

When I had nearly reached the Persian 
Gulf, I was attacked by illness, which pre- 
vented me from pursuing my journey. I 
then determined to return by the nearest 
way, and pass the deserts of Arabia, not far 
from the famous river Euphrates. Having 
traversed these and the deserts of Syria, I 
arrived, after a long and fatiguing journey, 
at the city of Damascus, where illness in- 
creased so much as to confine me for a month 



to my bed. I had the good fortune there to 
meet with a Jew, a physician by profession, 
who kindly attended me, and by his skill 
succeeded in restoring my health. He was a 
most worthy man, and belonged to the sect 
of the Essenes, who formed a respectable 
society, and avoided the dissolute morals and 
profane principles of the Sadducees. The 
origin of the tenets maintained by the latter, 
who, as is well known, reject the doctrine of 
the soul's immortality, may, in my opinion, 
be with some degree of probability referred 
to that remote period, when the Israelites set 
up and worshipped the molten calf. Hence 
sprung the various weeds of heresy and in- 
fidelity, which clung to the true religion as 
ivy clings to the rock, without being able to 
destroy it. I shall pass over them without 
further description, in order to afford space 
for enlarging on subjects which merit more 
particular notice. 



CHAP. III. 

Description of the city of Astrachan — Journey through 
Oremburg and Simbirsk to Kazan — Description of 
Kazan ; kindness of the Governor and Ms lady — 
Journey to Lapland and Finland — Arrival at and 
description of Archangel — Voyage to Nova Zembla ; 
savage state of the natives — Journey to Berezowa ; 
hospitality of its inhabitants — Arrival at Tobolsk 
in Siberia* and reception there ; generous behaviour 
of the Governor. 

Amongst other places which I at this time 
visited, was Astrachan, the principal city of 
Asiatic Russia, which is situated at the mouth 
of the Volga. It has a fortress, and the city 
is surrounded with strong walls. It contains, 
as far as I recollect, churches, as well of the 
the Russian as of other persuasions, of which 
my limits will not admit a detailed account. 



68 

There are two commercial halls, for the re- 
ception and sale of merchandize. Both these 
buildings are in a beautiful style of architec- 
ture. But what I found most worthy of 
attention, was a large botanical garden, and 
chemical laboratory, where they prepare salts 
extracted from plants, as the bitter salt of 
Astrachan ; also the juice of liquorice, and 
distilled waters. I have been told, that every 
apothecary's shop throughout the empire be- 
longs to the Emperor ; and they get from this 
place every medicinal plant. The apotheca- 
ries established here, supply all Russia with 
liquorice juice and Glauber's salts 5 and being 
not far distant from Persia, they are of course 
able to procure curious simples from thence, 
at a cheap rate. 

I found the city of Astrachan, and the 
industry of its inhabitants, so interesting, and 
so deserving the attention of a curious travel- 
ler, that I was encouraged to take a trip fur- 
ther, both to acquire a more extensive know- 



69 

ledge of the world ; and, if possible, to secure 
a little income for the enjoyment of a quiet 
life. Supported under my unfortunate situ- 
ation, by these objects which I had in view, I 
willingly submitted myself to the caprice of 
fortune. Accordingly, being provided with 
letters of recommendation, I set out for 
Kazan ; at which place I arrived, after passing 
through Oremburg and Simbirsk. It is 
esteemed a rich and considerable city. But, 
to the best of my recollection, the appearance 
of the houses, ramparts, and towers, which 
are all built of wood, gave me the idea of 
its being a poor town. It has, however, a 
castle built of stone, and is excellently situ- 
ated, being watered by the rivers Volga and 
Kama, which make the land extremely fer- 
tile ; so that it is enabled to enrich all the 
provinces by means of its commerce. This 
metropolitan city contains a great number of 
churches and monasteries. 

Perceiving that the place afforded me the 

K 



70 

prospect of a good benefit, I began to em- 
ploy my time in arranging the preparation 
for a concert. I consequently delivered my 
letters of recommendation, directed to Basil 
Wasilowich, governor of Kazan, who receiv- 
ed me with the greatest politeness. His 
lady, Mrs. Wasilowich, being so kind as to 
offer me apartments in their palace, I spent 
some weeks with that amiable couple, in the 
most agreeable manner ; being provided, by 
their bounty, with all the pleasure and luxur- 
ies of life. My concert, favoured with the 
patronage of such great and generous per- 
sonages, more than answered my most san- 
guine expectations. I perceived with some 
surprise, that the amiable governor and his 
lady took the warmest interest in my con- 
cerns ; conjecturing, perhaps, from my man- 
ners and conversation, that some accident 
had reduced me to the necessity of travel- 
ling, and probably pleased to find my mind 
so perfectly tranquil, and prepared to en- 



71 

counter all hazards, and to endure whatever 
misfortunes might befal me. 

The governor generously wishing to keep 
me out of the way of danger, proposed to 
recommend me to the court of Petersburgh. 
His kind offer brought to my recollection 
the gracious reception, and caresses, with 
which I had been honoured by the illustri- 
ous Princess of. Danhalt, during my stay at 
Paris with the Countess Humiecka ; and I 
was sensible that I could not fail of being 
well received by an introduction from this 
Princess, who was mother of Catherine the 
Great, Empress of Russia. But I was not 
without apprehensions, that Baron de Stach- 
elberg, the Ambassador from the Court of 
Petersburgh, who had been resident at War- 
saw, whilst I was under the protection of the 
Countess Humiecka, and through the in- 
fluence of political affairs had contracted a 
particular intimacy with herself and her fa- 
mily, might, on account of circumstances 



72 

which I have before related, connected with 
the displeasure which that lady had conceiv- 
ed, crtate some prejudice against me at the 
Russian court : I therefore judged it most 
prudent to decline the governor's offer. 

I now formed a project of visiting Fin- 
land, and the neighbouring country, which 
the governor was far from approving, as he 
was desirous that I should return to the 
more civilized parts of the world. He gave 
me, however, a letter of recommendation to 
the governor of Tobolsk, but would not 
second my design any further. Notwith- 
standing this, I set out in the first place for 
Finland, and after passing through Kostroma 
and Ousting, I arrived at Abo, the metro- 
polis of that country. This city could not 
have been more advantageously situated in re- 
gard to commerce, being surrounded by the 
gulfs of Bothnia and Finland, which both 
form most commodious harbours ; and I have 
no doubt it carries on an extensive trade. 



73 

In every other respect it seemed to me a 
most miserable city, exhibiting, with its wood- 
en houses painted in imitation of brick, a 
very beggarly appearance. Its inhabitants I 
found totally destitute of spirit, and cold as 
the climate in which they live. 

As there was no probability of my deriv- 
ing any profit from this place, I soon left it, 
and proceeded to Lapland, where I found 
my situation by no means improved ; but was 
convinced, that I could expect no benefit 
from a people so destitute, and a country so 
wild and remote from all intercourse with 
the rest of the world. I felt myself, how- 
ever, endued with courage, which bore me 
up against the stream of misfortune, and was 
protected by a gracious Providence from 
those dangers to which I had exposed my- 
self, by imprudently venturing, like an inex- 
perienced traveller, among the savages who 
inhabit this country. 

I was far from meeting a rude reception 



74 

from these people : on the contrary, I per- 
ceived that they regarded me with mixed 
surprise and pleasure, which induced them 
to pay me the most civil attentions. They 
shewed great zeal, in procuring me the best 
table their country could afford, with which 
I had every reason to be satisfied, as they 
have abundance of excellent game, and fish 
of every description. This last article their 
situation enables them to get with the great- 
est ease, as they are almost surrounded by 
seas — on the north by the Arctic Ocean, and 
on the east and south by the White Sea : ac- 
cordingly, they have immense quantities of 
all kinds, and of the best quality. The gulf 
of Bothnia abounds with salmon ; and from 
their mountains descend vast rivers of fresh 
water, in which I beheld those fishes swim- 
ming against the stream. I also saw in their 
lakes, pikes of a wonderful size : so that I 
could not avoid remarking how plentifully 
all their wants were supplied, and how much 



75 

more bountiful nature had been to them than 
to those inhabitants of Scandinavia, who are 
obliged to supply with a kind of saw dust, 
and preparation of fish bones, their want of 
bread. 

I now prepared to quit this part of the 
globe, to me so unproductive, and reached 
Terrskoi, an inland town of Russian Lap- 
land. Finding myself now at no great dis- 
tance from the celebrated city of Archangel, 
I determined to visit it, which resolution I 
put in practice. 

Had I travelled only for the purpose of 
furnishing descriptions, I should have thought 
myself bound to give my readers a particular 
account of Archangel ; but as that considera- 
tion did not enter into my plan, I must con- 
tent myself with merely noticing the neatness 
of the houses, which are of modern architec- 
ture, and that noble edifice called the Hall. 
This building, if my recollection be correct, 
is divided into three parts, in one of which 



76 

the Russian and foreign merchants have their 
apartments. I had the honour of an invita- 
tion to dine with them ; and was particularly 
noticed by Mr. Weldefriz, a distant relation 
to the minister of the same name, from the 
Danish Court at Paris, with whom I had 
been intimate during my stay at that capital, 
with the Countess Humiecka. This gentle- 
man, finding who I was, paid me the kind- 
est attention, and shewed me the whole of 
this remarkable building, which is very 
beautiful and commodious, having a square 
belonging to it, adjacent to the river, where 
vessels approach, to load and unload their 
merchandise. 

Archangel is admirably situated for trade, 
having on the east the famous river Dwma, 
which falls into the White Sea. This ad- 
vantageous position has afforded its inhabi- 
tants an opportunity, by the exertion of their 
industry, to enrich their country. Thus are 
a vast body of men prevented from sinking 



77 

into a torpid and indolent state of existence, 
like that of the ignorant Laplanders, who 
can neither benefit the world at large, nor 
even promote the interests of a solitary tra- 
veller like myself. There I might soon have 
found myself without a single resource to 
supply my wants, had I not been fortunate 
enough to reach Archangel, where my hap- 
piness was increased by my acquaintance 
with Mr. Weldefriz, who proved the bene- 
volence of his heart, by procuring me a lu- 
crative concert. This put me in excellent 
spirits, and I felt a desire to visit the desolate 
country of Nova-Zembla, which is upwards o 
six hundred miles distant by sea from Archan- 
gel. Mr. Weldefriz did not approve of this 
voyage, and gave me to understand, that no 
concert could be given there ; but finding me 
quite determined, and having some business 
there himself, he kindly offered to take 
charge of me. 

We sailed together over the White Sea, 



78 

and landed safely at Nova-Zembla. I after- 
wards regretted that I had not listened to 
the advice of my friend Mr. Weldefriz, as I 
found it was vain to expect any kind of be- 
nefit, and perceived no objects that could 
gratify the eye of a traveller. The whole 
country presented the appearance of desola- 
tion and distress ; for which, however, we 
ought not to blame nature, which is always 
perfect in her operations, when not prevented 
by accident from carrying them into effect. 
But here her noble principles had been quite 
destroyed, and this unfortunate corner of the 
globe presented the most dismal appearance. 
Indeed, it seems as if one might justly con- 
clude that an island so forlorn as Nova-Zem- 
bla, can be but of little use to the world ; 
especially when we remark that the animal 
kingdom alone subsists in it, as neither vege- 
tables nor minerals are to be found. The 
natives are chiefly savages, and, as might 
naturally be expected, rude as their native 



79 

climate. Their size is in general diminutive, 
and their strength may be easily managed. 
The following circumstance introduced me 
to their acquaintance. 

It happened that I was travelling with my 
friend Mr. Weldefriz, in a sledge, to visit 
some mountains of a prodigious height, which 
seem to hang in the air, and cannot be looked 
upon without horror ; and which are inhabited 
by beasts of a monstrous size. At this time the 
savages were hunting these animals for the 
sake of their skins ; with which, as they have 
no money in that country, they pay their 
taxes to the Emperor of Russia. I was per- 
ceived by some of them, who approached and 
viewed me with such looks of surprise, that 
I doubt not I became the principal topic of 
their conversation. The third day after this, 
they surrounded our house in great numbers, 
and dispatched a messenger to inform us, 
that if I did not come out and see them, they 
would pull down the whole house. 



80 

The mode of their request was suitable 
enough to the disposition of these savages ; 
whose example serves to convince us, that 
nature on her part has done every thing in 
producing the human body, giving it a per- 
fect shape, and endowing man with an un- 
derstanding superior to all other animals ; but 
that, when education is not employed to im- 
prove that understanding, the human race 
sinks nearly to a level with the brute crea- 
tion, being actuated by no principle but that 
of satisfying its own desires. 

In order to prevent the mischief these sa- 
vages intended me, I made my appearance 
before them. I was probably indebted for 
my safety to the smallness of my size. As 
soon as their astonishment had ceased, I ob- 
served that they assumed a singular posture, 
and lifted up their hands and eyes to the 
sky, as if in worship of the sun. My curio- 
sity induced me to ask the reason of this be- 
haviour. My question was put in the Polish 



81 

tongue, which is similar to the Russian ; and 
they answered me in the same language with 
great calmness, that they were giving thanks 
to the sun for allowing them to find such a 
man as me, as they had seen many people of 
various sizes, but never beheld any thing like 
mine. 

This flattering compliment well merited 
the return I hastened to make them, of my 
kindest and most grateful thanks, for the 
civil reception I had so unexpectedly met 
with. I at the same time proceeded, for their 
amusement, to play some tunes on my guitar, 
with which they were highly delighted, having 
never before heard or seen that instrument. 
I pleased them so much, that I think I may 
flatter myself I won their hearts, and inspir- 
ed them with some degree of enthusiasm to- 
wards me, which they expressed by desiring 
that I would not leave them. Savages as 
they were, so feeling a heart atoned for many 
defects. 



82 

As soon as my friend Weldefriz had set- 
tled his own affairs, we prepared for our de- 
parture j when these generous savages pre- 
sented us with a most beautiful fur of sable, 
and we took leave of each other in the most 
friendly manner possible. We set sail, and 
passed the Straits of Nova-Zembla ; by which 
name I shall call that narrow passage, the 
proper appellation of which has escaped my 
memory, so that my readers in this particu- 
lar must not rely upon me. My recollection, 
however, enables me to state that the tra- 
veller has on one side the sea of Karskoe, 
and on the other the gulf of Lebeskaya. 
We passed between those seas, and arrived 
on shore in a few hours. 

Next day my friend set out with me, and 
conducted me as far as Berezowa, where we 
had the pleasure to find the people much 
more hospitable to strangers than we had 
expected. We stopped a few days at their 
request, during which time we enjoyed every 



83 

comfort: they furnished our table with all 
sorts of game, and with young rein deer, 
which make a delighful dish. They not only 
procured us an excellent table, but were so 
kind as to entertain us with their pleasant 
company, and to favour us with some music 
upon an instrument of their own, called Ban- 
dura, a good deal like the guitar, with which 
we were much gratified. I then surprised 
these good people, who were not aware of 
my being able to perform, by ordering my 
servant to bring my guitar. The whole 
company were astonished on my opening it ; 
and I began to play some of my own music, 
which having all the charms of novelty, seem- 
ed to excite their admiration. The day 
after this we took our departure, and I now 
experienced the double regret of quitting 
these generous people, from whom I had re- 
ceived so many civilities, and my kind friend 
Mr. Weldefriz. 

On my arrival at Tobolsk, my first care 



84 

was to deliver my letters of recommendation 
to the Lord Chief Governor of Siberia, whose 
military is equal to his civil authority. I 
found in this city, which is amazingly well 
fortified, a powerful garrison. I concluded 
therefore, that a concert among so great a 
number of officers would fully answer my 
expectations. Upon the inhabitants of the 
city I could place but little reliance, being 
composed chiefly of Mahometan Tartars, and 
others, whom it will be no great loss to my 
readers to leave unmentioned ; whose sole 
pleasure consisted in trading up the river 
Irtish, which they did to a considerable ex- 
tent, and in conveying merchandize through 
Great Tartary to China : so that the fruits 
of my sowing on such a barren land, were 
likely to be little better than a crop of net- 
tles. I consequently directed my attentions 
to the governor, who sent me a polite invi- 
tation to dine with him. 

At this dinner I found a most brilliant 



85 

company, and met many distinguished offi- 
cers. A great many ladies were present, 
who supported the character of their amiable 
sex, by reviving the spirit of the company, 
and giving new life to the agreeable conver- 
sation. I soon found that I had become the 
leading topic of their discourse : my small 
size had probably attracted their attention, 
and excited a curiosity to hear me converse. 
They accordingly put several questions to 
me, merely, as I imagine, with a view of 
learning what answer I could make. Among 
my questioners was a lady, the most beauti- 
ful of the whole assembly. She asked me 
what motives could have tempted me to tra- 
vel so far, and induced me to visit a country 
so desolate and destitute of comfort as Sibe- 
ria, where nothing was to be seen and felt 
but snow and extreme frost. " Excuse me, 
Madam," I replied, "the dangers and fatigues 
of my travels are amply rewarded, by what I 
now behold ; for even the frozen regions of 

M 



86 

Siberia have not prevented nature from pre- 
senting to my view so elegant a specimen of 
her workmanship as yourself." The gover- 
nor, enchanted with my reply, declared to 
me that she was his daughter ; and this lucky 
little incident increased the kindness of the 
reception I met with from the whole com- 
pany. 

The next day I received from the gover- 
nor's daughter an invitation to dine with her 
and her father, which it was impossible for 
me to refuse. The governor took this op- 
portunity of inquiring very kindly after my 
concerns. I frankly informed him, that hav- 
ing no settled provision to which I could 
look forward, I was thrown upon the world, 
and left entirely without any resources j and 
that such being my disastrous situation, I 
begged that he would patronise my concert. 
This he promised to do ; and through the 
warm interest and active exertions of the 
governor, his lady, and his daughter, my 



87 

concert was attended by a most brilliant 
company, and as productive as I could pos- 
sibly desire from the city of Tobolsk. 

As I had now settled all my affairs, and 
had nothing more to do in that place, I was 
preparing to leave it. But my departure 
was delayed for some time by a circumstance, 
of which, when my reader shall be apprised, 
he will, I am sure, approve the conduct I 
adopted. That amiable lady, the governor's 
daughter, considered, probably, that perform- 
ers in my way generally look only to their 
own interest ; and forgetting immediately the 
generous benefactors who have promoted 
their advantage, leave them without concern 
in search of new ones. To prevent, there- 
fore, my following such examples, she sent 
me a note to inform me, by desire of her 
father and mother, that they begged I would 
not think of leaving the town so soon : at the 
end of the note she added, that for her own 
part, she nattered herself, I would not think 



88 

of disobliging her by refusing to comply 
with the request. To this I replied : " As I 
have already, Madam, experienced your good- 
ness, and witnessed the kind concern you 
take in my welfare, you could not surely 
think that I would disobey your order. 
Sooner will I forget myself. Severe as the 
misfortunes are which have befallen me, and 
impelled me to seek my fortune in foreign 
climates, they can never obliterate the feel- 
ings of gratitude which I cherish for your 
bounty, and which I trust will accompany 
me to the grave." 

This answer opened a door to their friend- 
ship : they immediately came, and took me 
to dine with them. My time was most agree- 
ably spent in their society. After dinner, the 
governor's daughter, who was an admirable 
performer, sent for my instrument, on which 
I accompanied her. Soon after, a number of 
their friends came to spend the evening with 
them. It began at last to grow late, and I 



was preparing to go home, but was prevent- 
ed by the young lady, who desired me to 
wait until the company should be gone. 
When all retired, she said: " Now, allow me to 
accompany you to your lodging." " You are 
right," added the governor and his lady, "and 
we will go together." I desired they would 
not give themselves so needless a trouble ; 
but the more I entreated them, the more de- 
lighted were they to perceive that I had not 
discovered their intention, of which I re- 
mained totally ignorant until I found myself 
in a charming apartment of their noble man- 
sion, which they had destined for my abode. 
As soon as I had recovered from the aston- 
ishment into which I was thrown by this 
most courteous attention, which the politest 
nation could not have surpassed, I returned 
them my wannest thanks for their kindness ; 
which in my present situation I had the less 
reason to expect, as I had suppressed my real 
name, influenced by a feeling of pride which 



90 



forbade me to proclaim it under the humi- 
liating circumstances in which I was there 
placed. Thus did I suddenly find myself 
fixed in their palace, where I was most kind- 
ly cherished ; and I received every attention 
from this respectable family, whose friend- 
ship each succeeding day seemed to increase. 
My joy was, however, embittered by the 
thought, that the time was fast approaching 
when I must depart, never again to behold 
them, and when I should have no other con- 
solation for their loss, but the recollection of 
the kindness they had shown me. 



CHAP. IV. 

Departure from Tobolsk — Journey to KamschatJca ; 
arrival at Bolcheretskoi the capital — Description 
of the Volcanos — Journey to Behring's Straits ; 
view of the Frozen Ocean — Desolate state of the 
country, and miserable existence of the natives — 
Arrival at Olensk ; improved appearance of the 
country — Visit to the city of Catherineburg ,- po- 
liteness and liberality of the Director of the Si- 
berian mines — Description of the country around 
— Remarkable incidents. 

I was at length obliged to pursue my jour- 
ney *, and leaving Tobolsk, I set out for Kams- 
chatka, passing through Narym, Nasunow- 
skoi, Hinskoi, Witemk, Oloskoi, and Tew- 
skoi, which are situated near the sea of the 
peninsula of Kamschatka. On my arrival at 
Bolcheretskoi, the metropolis of the whole 
country, I thought I had found a second 



Nova-Zembla : but here I met with the ad- 
ditional evil of three volcanos, which I did 
not fail to visit. The first to the best of my 
recollection, named Awatska, lies to the 
north of a bay of the same name ; the second 
rises from the mountains between the rivers 
of Kamschatka and Tobolski. I here met 
with a gentleman who made particular en- 
quiries after me - 9 but not being satisfied with 
the information he received, he politely ap- 
proached and thus accosted me : " You are 
welcome to us, my little gentleman ; you 
seem to be examining this volcano very 
closely, — pray let me know, have you found 
out its cause .?" 

This was a question too deep for my un- 
derstanding. But it immediately struck me, 
that curiosity alone, and the expectation of 
hearing some reply, had induced him to ask 
it j and as I happened to recollect the literary 
boldness of my friend, Count de Tressan, 
the celebrated writer, who in some of hi« 



93 

works had introduced a most curious circum- 
stance of a tree having been found growing 
in the stomach of a human body, I was em- 
boldened to acquaint the stranger with my 
ideas on the subject, which I did in the fol- 
lowing manner : — " The most eminent natu- 
ral philosophers and learned men, whose 
works must be read with admiration, for 
their proficiency in the most obtruse sciences, 
and their wonderful knowledge of nature, 
have yet failed to discover the origin and 
first principles of created things. They have 
been lost in the wide field of conjecture, 
since the Great Creator has reserved this 
knowledge for himself; and although they 
have succeeded in discovering three princi- 
ples, which are known by the common names 
of salt, sulphur, and mercury, they are yet en- 
tirely ignorant from what these are derived. 
All the account, therefore, that I am able to 
give you is this : — When I travelled through 
Italy, I stopped at Naples, where I saw 

N ■ 



94 

Mount Vesuvius, which is situated five or 
six miles from the city, and near the sea, 
like this of Awatska. I have been struck 
with the remarkable situation of volcanos in 
this respect, of being near the ocean ; and 
my ideas upon the subject lead me to con- 
clude, that the sea, being a quick current 
water, as well as a mineral body, in the 
course of the passage which it works through 
the depths of this earth, may not improbably 
meet with a number of caverns, in which 
is to be found matter of every kind. These 
materials all repose, as it were, in a profound 
sleep, waiting for some power to rouse them. 
Similar natures always attract each other : the 
sea, therefore, meeting with these impure 
bodies, fraught with its own sulphureous, mer- 
curial, and saline principles, operates active- 
ly upon creatures so like itself, revives and 
puts in motion these sluggish and inert 
bodies, and thus increases their spiritual es- 
sence ; then working together in the bowels 



95 

of the earth, and sending forth noxious 
odours, arising from the infectious vapours 
with which they are filled, they at length 
burst forth, blowing up the ground with the 
greatest violence, and by the co-operation of 
the air, discharge vast flames of fire." 

When I had thus stated to him the cause 
of volcanos, according to my own ideas, 
founded merely upon the nature of the ele- 
ments, I beheld in his countenance marks of 
pleasure ; and he seemed to be at once sur- 
prised and gratified, by my singular descrip- 
tion of these works of nature. My ready 
answer to his question, procured me the fa- 
vour of a very polite offer to shew me the 
third volcano, which I readily accepted : but 
as it grew rather late, this visit was deferred 
until the next day ; and in the mean time he 
gave me a pressing invitation to dine with 
him, which I promised to do with great 
pleasure. 

I now found, to my astonishment, that I 



96 

was in company with the governor, who con- 
ducted me to his palace, in the peninsula of 
Botcharetsk, where he did me the honour 
to introduce me to his lady, by whom I was 
received with the utmost politeness and at- 
tention. I was much gratified by his com- 
pany, finding him a man of knowledge. His 
literary pursuits afforded him a very agree- 
able resource in his present situation, where 
no society was to be found, and in a country 
which presented the appearance of a com- 
plete desert. His habitation was not far 
distant from the volcanos, built on a low 
ground leading to the sea of Oketsk, and on 
the north of the river Bolchoireka. I was 
most agreeably entertained in his society, 
and on the next day the governor honoured 
me with a call, and we proceeded to visit the 
third or last volcano. It rises, if my remem- 
brance be correct, from the highest mountain 
in the peninsula of Kamschatka, and throws 
out continually a variety of substances accom- 



97 

panied with smoke. We remained there only 
a short time, as nothing met our eyes but 
horror: the frightful appearance of those pits 
casting forth showers of stones and ashes, 
presented to the imagination a picture of the 
desolation of the world. 

The view of these wonderful, but horrid 
phenomena, so forcibly impressed me, that I 
determined to quit the country as soon as 
possible, and consequently took measures to 
forward my concert, before any additional 
explosion should happen. A lucky oppor- 
tunity presented itself, on my being invited 
to dine with the governor. I seized the 
moment, to beg of him and his lady, that 
they would do me the kindness to patronize 
my concert. They graciously acceded to 
to my request, and appointed a day, when a 
most elegant assembly attended my concert, 
which was as productive as I could possibly 
expect from such a city as Bolcheretsk. 

I now took the liberty to pay my respects 



98 

to my generous patrons, and to bid them 
farewell. I was obliged to wait a long time 
for a favourable season to take my departure. 
I must observe, that in this country a deep 
snow falls in the beginning of May, which 
covers the whole country. The traveller 
will ihen find it impossible to proceed, as I 
can vouch from experience, having made 
the attempt, which nearly cost me my life. 
About the middle of the month a thaw com- 
mences, the snow then melts rapidly on the 
sides of the mountains, and in June the low 
grounds are generally free from it. As, how- 
ever, I did not put much confidence in this 
season, I stopped till August, when the ve- 
getation appeared in its perfection. I was 
informed by the inhabitants, that I might 
safely continue during the month of Septem- 
ber, as the weather would still be mild ; but 
that if I should stay until October, I would 
then behold a new fall of snow covering the 
land and hills. As I had no wish to witness 



99 

the return of such inclement weather, I made 
preparation for setting out immediately. 

A few days before my departure, a gentle- 
man, who was a native of the country, very 
kindly waited on me, and paid me the most 
polite attention, inviting me to dine at his 
house. I gladly accepted his invitation, was 
introduced to his family, and well received. 
I spent a most agreeable day, and found this 
gentleman possessed of elegant manners, and 
extensive information. He acquainted me 
with many curious particulars concerning his 
country, which had struck me at first as by 
no means nourishing. I learned from him, 
that though apparently so poor, the inhabi- 
tants have, by means of their commerce, 
which consists in furs and other articles of 
trade, a great quantity of money circulating 
among them. I was glad to hear such a 
good account of the country, which, I con- 
fessed, I had once thought a miserable corner 
of the world, not capable, as I afterwards 



100 

found, of producing verdure, pasturage, ve- 
getables, and grain. He concluded by offer- 
ing me his company and protection, through 
the whole of Kamschatka ; as I had informed 
him that I intended to visit those wonderful 
Straits of the Frozen Sea, opposite to New 
Wales in America, called Bhering's Straits. 

In a few days we set out on our journey : 
many hot springs were to be found on our 
road, and my companion amused me with the 
sight of two most remarkable ones. The first 
is, to the best of my recollection, not far from 
a village called Natchechin. There arises from 
it a steam as from a boiling pot, which emits 
a smell of sulphurous and other matters too 
strong to be supported. The other was in a 
mountain, near the river called Paudja : from 
its top falls a cataract of boiling water, with 
a most horrid and frightful noise ; and, pro- 
ceeding a considerable length, bubbles up to 
the height of more than eight feet, till it dis- 
charges itself into several of those lakes, 



101 

which are found in great abundance in this 
country. This mountain produces some cu- 
rious stones of variegated colours. After 
viewing these wonderful springs, we pursued 
our journey, and passing Aklansk, not far 
from the sea of Anadir, we arrived at Bhe- 
ring's Straits. 

The emotions of awe and wonder which I 
felt on viewing the Frozen Ocean, led me to 
reflect how many ingenious writers, who have 
bestowed much pains in weaving intricate 
webs, and forming numerous theories, to ex- 
plain all things to the satisfaction of their 
readers, have, like overloaded vessels, suf- 
fered shipwreck, and sank in the depths of 
blindness and of error. This must ever be 
the case when our wandering imaginations 
rashly attempt to penetrate the secret won- 
ders of nature, through that dark cloud with 
which the Almighty has overspread our fa- 
culties. It seemed to me that it would 
not be proper to speak too hastily of this 



102 

Frozen Sea, in an unfavourable manner ; and 
I was led to amuse my fancy with conjec- 
tures, that as the great Author of Nature has 
presented nothing to us without design, this 
ocean was to be regarded in another light 
than as a direct barrier and separation from 
the rest of the world ; and that, if it were 
possible for any mortal to pass over it, so 
wonderful a man would perhaps deserve to 
meet with climates far superior to our own. 
This imaginary voyage must not, however, 
make me forget to mention, that I observed 
in the country, marmots and wild sheep, 
most beautiful and curious little animals, 
such as I had not seen any where in my tra- 
vels, except in Corsica and Sardinia. 

When I was ready to return, I consulted 
my worthy friend, Mr. Prokop, on the sub- 
ject of the nearest road to my own country. 
From his information, I found that there was 
little difference, in regard of nearness, be- 
tween the two routes that offered themselves. 



103 

He advised me, however, to pass through 
Siberia, rather than to coast along the Fro- 
zen Sea by Somoyeda, as there was a proba- 
bility of iny finding some towns which would 
contribute to defray my expences. My good 
friend seemed not much satisfied with the 
choice I made : we set out, however, and he 
kindly conducted me as far, I think, as a 
place called Kirilovo, opposite to the new 
coast discovered by navigators. He there 
left me, and I proceeded to coast along the 
Frozen Sea. I soon found that my friend 
would have good reason to laugh at my ex- 
pence, as I met with nothing but miserable 
villages, in which no comfortable provisions 
could be procured. The inhabitants, living 
near the sea, subsist chiefly on dead animals 
thrown up by the waves, and on the wild 
beasts which they shoot. ' If they can find 
nothing better, they feed on snakes, dogs, 
cats, rats, mice, and vermin. It was very 
fortunate for me, that I had been well sup- 



104 

plied by my friend with good provisions, 
otherwise my situation must have been most 
wretched. 

Persevering in this unpleasant journey, I 
at length reached Olensk, where things began 
to assume rather a better appearance. I 
afterwards passed through Borchatewa, and 
the lake Pyasina, Staroka, Kamionka, Tau- 
renkansk, till I approached the gulf of Obb. 
I had yet a long journey to go ; but on my 
arrival at Neiwanskoi, I was informed, that I 
was then in the province of Tobolsk, remark- 
able for its curious manufactures in brass, 
copper, and iron, and in the neighbourhood 
of a city named Catherineburg, where the 
Director of the Siberian mines resided. 

I hastened to pay a visit to this city, which 
is situated on the river Yet, and well forti- 
fied, having an arsenal, exchange, and cus- 
tom-house. In short, it appeared excellent- 
ly calculated for my purpose, of getting a 
good concert, to recruit my exhausted means, 



105 

and make good my losses. Unfortunately, 
however, I had not been provided with let- 
ters of recommendation to the Director, a 
circumstance which caused me some uneasi- 
ness ; but relying on that good Providence, 
which had conducted me so far, I ventured 
to distribute concert bills in the city. One 
fortunately came into the hands of the Di- 
rector's daughter, and procured me admis- 
sion to the family : I immediately received 
from her father a polite note, containing an 
invitation to dine with him, and to bring 
some instruments to make a little concert. I 
gladly seized the opportunity to secure his 
patronage, which would so materially ad- 
vance my interest, and I accepted his kind 
invitation. He received me with such civi- 
lity and attention, that I am at a loss to ex- 
press how greatly I feel indebted to him, 
and to the whole of his amiable family, for 
their kindness. 

I had now a flattering prospect of a lucra- 



106 

tive concert, in which I was not disappoint- 
ed ; for this worthy family took such an ac- 
tive part in my behalf, that I was honoured 
by the attendance of a numerous assembly, 
and placed in a better situation than I could 
boast of when I arrived at the town. I re- 
mained for some time after my concert, en- 
joying the pleasant society of the Director's 
family, and of a few select friends, blessed 
with most excellent dispositions, and a charm- 
ing affability. I had no reason to regret the 
loss of the people whom I had left behind, 
on the coast of the Frozen Sea, and who 
were scarcely worthy of a single thought 
bestowed upon them. 

I now began to reflect on my past fortunes 
and present situation, and concluded, that 
the best thing I could do was to arm myself 
with patience and prudence against the evils 
and changes of life, as I must expect to meet 
with many reverses in the long journey 
which I had still to go. My courage was 



107 

strengthened by the recollection, how provi- 
dentially I had been preserved during my 
travels in Anatolia, Syria, the Archipelago, 
and the rest of that empire, including Smyr- 
na, where I had escaped the dreadful plague, 
which raged in that magnificent city. My 
narrative would be lengthened beyond due 
bounds, were I to describe its buildings, the 
grandeur of which will never be effaced from 
my memory. I might indeed urge, as an 
additional reason for the omission, that those 
descriptions are better suited to such inge- 
nious persons as travel for amusement, and 
usefully employ their leisure hours in de- 
scribing the objects they have seen, than to 
me who travelled for subsistence ; who had 
no remittances to depend upon ; and who 
was often disappointed, even in my expecta- 
tions of a transient supply, — as in the case of 
my arrival in Aladulia, which I had visited 
with sanguine hopes, knowing the province 
to abound in silver, copper, and many other 



108 

mines, but was obliged to quit, on finding it 
infested by troops of plundering banditti. I 
felt very grateful for my good fortune, in 
having met with such a family as the Direc- 
tor's, to which I was invited every day, and 
was entertained with a variety of amuse- 
ments, or was a party in some interesting 
conversation. 

Among a variety of questions which he 
put to me, the Director expressed a wish to 
be informed, if I thought the Russian empire 
equal to those nations through which I had 
travelled. My friend forgot that I had visit- 
ed foreign countries, not with a view to no^ 
tice such matters, but to forward my own 
interest, and with an intention, as soon as I 
should gain a sufficiency, of retiring to a pri- 
vate life. But as I perceived that he was 
pleased with my conversation, I endeavoured 
to satisfy him to the best of my ability, and 
observed : " that the Russian empire was not 
so favourably situated with regard to cli- 



109 

mate as that of Turkey ; that foreigners 
must admire the civilized manners of the 
Russians of higher rank, but that I could 
find no improvement in those of the common 
people, and that their savage dispositions 
seemed as incapable of correction, as those 
of the Turkish commonalty ; that when I 
considered the vast length and breadth, and 
amazing extent of the empire of Russia, I 
could not help comparing it to a giant, — and 
Sweden, Denmark, and Norway, with its 
mountains called Ardongen, to pigmies pas- 
sing between his legs." My friend, the Di- 
rector, was pleased with this idea ; and I then 
gave him a little sketch of Copenhagen the 
metropolis of Denmark, and Stockholm the 
metropolis of Sweden ; which latter city 
seemed to me to bear a great resemblance 
to Venice, in its situation, and in the strik- 
ing views which it presents to the eye of a 
traveller. 

I shall not enter into any further details of 
p 



110 

this conversation. I was next day honoured 
with a visit ; and he took me to see some vil- 
lages, at a short distance, near the river Obb. 
I was delighted with their beauty, and with 
the charming prospects beheld from the 
neighbouring country, affording a very fine 
subject for landscape. This romantic sce- 
nery reminded me of my travels in Norway, 
the most mountainous of all the countries I 
passed through, and particularly of the Do- 
frefield mountains, which rise to such a mon- 
strous height,— '-and some others over which 
my road lay, abounding with cataracts and 
dreadful precipices, which were passable only 
by wooden bridges, very slightly built. On 
some of those mountains 1 met with water at 
the top, which had a most striking effect. 

After our return from these villages, I 
dined, as usual, at the Director's house, and 
spent my time most pleasantly with his 
charming family. His daughter was so ac- 
complished a young lady, that I could not 



Ill 

wonder at her being so great a favourite with 
her parents. Nature had endowed her with 
a disposition so amiable, that she attracted 
the regard of all who knew her. She pos- 
sessed a mind quick and penetrating, and 
was most mild and affable in conversation. 
I happened one day to be at the house, when 
she received some new music, including a 
number of songs. As she sung admirably, 
and my instrument was ready, being kept in 
her apartment, she was pleased' that I should 
come and try those songs with her, when 
there would be no company to interrupt us, 
and none present but her father and mother. 
I did so ; and it happened, that after our mu- 
sical entertainment, her father and mother 
left us alone, when she took this opportunity 
very anxiously to inquire if I had been at 
Warsaw at the time my King was taken pri- 
soner by the banditti of Kosinski. Not ap- 
prehending that any particular consequences 
could result from my answer, I replied, "thai 



112 

I was then at Warsaw." She next asked me 
if I recollected who was Minister of the 
Court of Petersburg at that period, and who 
was Commander in Chief of the Russian 
armies. I answered, " that Baron de Stakel- 
berg held the former post, and General 
Romanious the latter." She seemed much 
pleased with this information, and directly 
told me, that I must be the very person who 
had been described by General Romanious 
in a letter. This commander, if I recollect 
rightly, was her uncle. She hastened with 
great joy to acquaint her father and mother 
with her discovery, and brought me the let- 
ter alluded to, telling me that it was in vain 
to deny myself, as she was convinced, from 
every circumstance, and not least from my 
manners, conversation, and the polite atten- 
tion I had paid them, that I must be the 
very person. She then pressed me so ear- 
nestly to declare my real name, that I could 
not resist her entreaties. Upon this avowal, 



113 

she immediately showed me my name in the 
letter, which she. had before concealed. I 
explained to her my reasons for the secrecy 
I had observed, which she approved, and 
promised that my secret should not be be- 
trayed. 

The letter was read to me, in which I 
found myself mentioned in a manner much 
more flattering than I deserved. I was for- 
cibly struck with the conclusion of his letter, 
in which he displayed the character of a brave 
General. " I have no news," said he, " to 
send you, except that we have been very 
troublesome to the Poles, our neighbours, 
and have taken General Sawa prisoner. He 
was conducted to Warsaw, where our min- 
ister, Baron de Stakelberg, received him in 
his palace with all due honours ; but, notwith- 
standing every possible care was taken of him, 
this brave General died on the third day, of 
the many wounds he had received." On 
hearing this, I observed, that I was at War- 



114 

saw when this Genera] died, and that I recol- 
lected very well the circumstances of the 
sudden hostilities commenced against us by 
our late pretended friends, in whom we had 
placed so much confidence, and who seemed 
to have been long preparing, by slow and 
premeditated motions, to become our enemies. 
I remarked, " that nothing seemed left for us, 
but to mourn our country, as a child would 
lament the loss of its parent, and wait with 
melancholy patience for its resurrection. 5 * 
The Director, who was then present, smiled, 
and told me, that we were a powerful nation, 
and would bereave many other children of 
their parent countries, and that we would be- 
come more terrible when we should set our 
feet upon European ground. I thought it best 
to say nothing further on this subject, as I did 
not feel myself qualified for entering into 
political discussions with one to whom they 
were so familiar. But his observation led me 
to think, that unless I be sadly mistaken, 



115 

there is a large apple dumpling made, and 
now boiling in the pot, for certain Princes, 
which must in due time be ready for their 
dinner. 

In the course of our conversation, the 
Director introduced the name of General 
Beniouski, who had the misfortune to lose a 
battle at the time of the confederacy of Bar, 
and was conducted to Siberia as a prisoner of 
war, whence he ingeniously contrived to 
escape. I was reminded by the mention of 
this General, that before I visited the empire 
of Russia, I had met him at Vienna, where 
he was busily engaged in some chemical pre- 
parations with Count Rzewreski, General of 
the Crown, and a relation of the Countess 
Humiecka ; and that, being intimate with the 
Count, and happening to have a good many 
books on the subject, I became a member of 
their society. But finding my attempts to 
procure the philosopher's stone unsuccessful, 
I took leave of them, and making a tour 



116 

through Italy, came at last into Etruria. I 
then took shipping for Corsica, and from 
thence sailed to Sardinia, where I was sur- 
prised by meeting with General Beniouski. 
He was on his way to Barbary ; and knowing 
my taste for chemistry, he pressed me ear- 
nestly to go with him, telling me that he had 
found a philosopher who could change metals 
into gold. The name of the person, he in- 
formed me, was Abraham Caab. " This 
name of Caab," observed the General to me, 
" is an illustrious one ; and the family of the 
man I am now speaking of is a branch of that 
of the Jew Caab, who was originally a Rabbi, 
but afterwards turned Mussulman, and assisted 
Mahomet in composing the Koran.'* This 
information inspired me with fresh confi- 
dence ; as I imagined that the transmutation 
of metals must be an easy task to him, who 
could overcome the much greater difficulty, 
of changing his faith. Supposing it, there- 
fore, very probable, that he might be able to 



117 

turn lead into gold, I readily consented to 
accompany the General. 

We sailed from the gulf of Palma, and 
landed at Tunis, with which we were sadly 
disappointed, finding it a miserable, ill-built 
city, possessing nothing worthy of notice, 
but its situation, which is on an elevated 
ground on the west of the lake, with a pros- 
pect of Carthage and Guletta. It is a very 
inconvenient place for strangers, since there 
is no water to be met with, that has not a 
brackish taste ; but as we had not come to 
drink water, but to find out our philosopher, 
on being told that his residence was at Bi- 
serta, about ten miles from Tunis, we set 
out for that town. 

We were next directed to Nabal, where 
on our arrival we found, not this wonderful 
Caab, but a manufactory of pottery, which 
exceeded in quality any that I beheld in that 
country. Here we met with a Turkish der- 
vise or priest, who treated us kindly, and 

Q 



118 

directed us to Susa, the capital of the pro- 
vince of the same name, where a Turkish 
Pacha kept his residence. At this city we 
succeeded in finding the object of our search, 
who was busily employed about the philoso- 
pher's stone. I was not surprised that he 
should choose to fix his abode at Susa, in 
preference to many other towns, as it is a con- 
siderable city. Its inhabitants proved their 
civility towards strangers, by the great at- 
tention they shewed in assisting us to find 
out our philosopher. This worthy person- 
age gave General Beniouski the most flatter- 
ing assurances, that he would find out the 
secret of the precious stone. I was not in- 
troduced to him until he had finished a secret 
conference with the General, and many days 
passed before my friend was favoured with 
the receipt for this great work of nature. 

We then proceeded in the following man- 
ner : — We extracted sulphur from mercury 
by separation, and took the mixed corporeal 



119 

and spiritual compound, the body of which 
is coagulated from the volatile matters by 
digestion. We separated the mercury from 
its sulphur, by means of a glass. We used 
white glass fixed, and resisting aqua fortis, 
and heavier than common glass. When we 
had completed our extraction, and mixed it 
with gold, we put our preparation into a 
philosophical oval glass, which we placed in 
a furnace, built for the purpose, with geome- 
trical proportion. We kept a constant fire 
with sand heated to the highest degree, and 
our compound continued circulating day and 
night without interruption, whilst we were 
anxiously waiting for its elevation, and for 
the appearances of its progress toward the 
desired end. But we were grievously dis- 
appointed, its continued motion producing 
no improvement either as to quality or quan- 
tity, but the dead mixture keeping in the 
oval glass. Thus we remained without the 
least prospect of our ounces of gold ascend- 



120 

ing, whilst we began to be sensible of a 
material descension in our purses. 

I was consoled under my disappointment, 
by the kindness of the Pacha, who took the 
most friendly notice of me, and assisted me 
in getting a little money by means of a con- 
cert (if it may be so called) performed by 
Mr. Beniouski and myself. My friend play- 
ed on the flute (on which instrument he 
performed remarkably well), and I on the 
violin. — To return from my digression : — I 
took leave of my friend the director, and a 
short time after this I set out for Oufa. 



CHAP. V. 

Arrival at the city of Oufa ; description of antique 
remains in the neighbourhood of that place — Se- 
cond visit to Oremburg — Digression ; introduction 
to Voltaire — Reflections — Visit to Bokhara — Ar- 
rival at Kislaer, the metropolis of the Circassian 
Tartars ,• account of a hot spring there — Journey 
through Croatia, Dalmatia, and lower Arabia, to 
Kamienicc, and thence to Buda — Visit to Lintz and 
Munich ,• introduction to the Elector ; interview 
•with the Prince de la Tour and Taxis, also with 
the Prince de Wallerstein — Arrival at Trier sdorff ; 
hind attentions of the Margrave and Margravine 
of Anspach. 

On my approach to the city of Oufa, I 
observed that its environs were surrounded 
with rising hills and woods. It does not pre- 
sent a very splendid appearance, and has no 
particular claims to notice. But as I was 
told, that above Oufa, on the other side of 



122 

the Dicuma, and at no great distance, many 
ancient monuments were to be found, I went 
on purpose to see them. There are remain- 
ing numerous ruins of what may be called 
sepulchral chapels, surrounded with Arabian 
tomb stones, bearing inscriptions. As these 
writings excited my curiosity, I begged an 
explanation of them, but found no one who 
was able to satisfy my inquiry. My conjec- 
tures led me to conclude, that the provinces 
had formerly belonged to the Arabian na- 
tion, until they were admitted to the honour 
of becoming a part of the Russian empire. 
The Russians, I presume, wished to enjoy 
some better climate and milder air, than 
those of their own native Moscow and Fro- 
zen Ocean ; and in this they were perfect- 
ly right. Undoubtedly, the acquisition also 
would give them a more imposing appear- 
ance, and a greater probability of success. 
They were very lucky in meeting with friends 
so well inclined to their welfare, as to assist 



123 

them in putting their feet upon a warmer 
and a better soil. 

Among other nations, which they have 
since honoured in a similar manner, my na- 
tive country (Poland) has the happiness to be 
included. It has contributed to the im- 
provement of that great empire, by adding 
considerably to its length and breadth, as 
well as by enabling it to breathe a milder 
air, and cultivate a more fruitful land. Sen- 
sible of the kindness that has been shewn 
them, the Polish people wait with the great- 
est impatience for an opportunity to evince 
their gratitude to those feeling hearts, who 
have helped to unite them to so great a body 
as the Russian empire. The thought is most 
gratifying, that we have been enabled to be- 
come useful subjects of so extensive and 
mighty a nation. And they that united us to 
them, will no doubt have reason to be gratified 
with the display which that nation will make, 
and with the terror it will inspire in the day of 



124 

battle, at any time when a desire of torment- 
ing other nations shall be felt.: and such 
desires must be expected now and then, as 
naturally as new fashions in dress. 

I returned to Oufa without gaining any 
instruction concerning those antiquities ; and 
after remaining a short time there, as I had 
no prospect of succeeding in a concert, I set 
out for Oremburg. This is an extremely 
opulent and commercial city, the appearance 
of which persuaded me that I might set up 
my trade there with great probability of suc- 
cess. I was further encouraged in my ex- 
pectation of a good concert, by the great 
civility which the inhabitants shew to all 
strangers, and by my good fortune in obtain- 
ing an introduction to the family of Mr. 
Bialosinkoi, a gentleman engaged in a great 
commercial concern, and also distinguished 
for his learning. In him I met with a re- 
markable instance, in addition to those which 
my travels had already afforded me, of the 



125 

double benefit which is derived from an ac- 
quaintance with persons of this description. 
I not only obtained a more enlarged know- 
ledge of the world, but found my little in- 
come materially improved. This worthy 
gentleman promoted my interest with such 
unwearied zeal, that he procured me a more 
lucrative concert than I could possibly have 
expected. I remained some time longer in 
this city, the society of which I found very 
agreeable. The greater part of my time was 
spent with the respectable family of Mr. Bia- 
losinskoi, who kindly introduced me into his 
library, which excited my admiration, as it 
contained an excellent selection of the works 
of the most approved authors, and a sur- 
prising collection of ancient and modern 
philosophers. Here I met with the Hen- 
riade of Voltaire, and several other interest- 
ing works of that author ; which reminded 
me of my interview with him in my younger 
days, at the house of Madame de Jofruen, 



126 

who was his intimate friend. She was a 
most respectable lady, and remarkable both 
for her extensive knowledge, and her ami- 
able disposition. Her chief society was com- 
posed of literary men, who, to whatever' pro- 
fession they belonged, or whatever arts they 
followed, became members of her circle. 
My little person had excited in her breast a 
curiosity to see me, which she was enabled 
to gratify without any difficulty. 

It happened that I was often with Madame 
de Pompadour, at Versailles, where I had 
the honour to pay my respects to the Queen. 
Madame de Pompadour was sometimes visited 
by her brother, the Marquis de Marini, with 
whom I was intimate, and who was nearly 
related to Madame de Jofruen. They were 
both very desirous to introduce me to that 
lady ; and I the more readily consented, as I 
had before heard a very pleasing account of 
her amiable disposition. I had the honour 
to be introduced on the following day to 



127 

Madame de Jofruen, and her literary society. 
I exerted my best endeavours to make my- 
self agreeable to her ; and had the happiness 
to be so far successful, that I could perceive 
she was very much pleased with my replies 
to her questions. She was so kind as to give 
me a general invitation to her Monday din- 
ners : the Abbe Raynal was present at this 
conversation, and seemed to take pleasure in 
seizing every opportunity to shew me kind 
attentions, and to improve my volatile mind. 
I was then very young. But I was by no 
means insensible to the advantage I might 
derive from being admitted to so learned a 
society : I was conscious that, if duly im- 
proved, it might make me, notwithstanding 
my diminutive stature, an object more de- 
serving of notice in the rational creation than 
some of a larger size ; as in the natural world 
the humble reseda diffuses a perfume, which 
does not belong to the lofty chesnut. I con- 
sidered, that such society would give a polish 



128 

to my manners, improve my judgment, and 
impart a steadiness and firmness to my soul, 
which would enable me to support such cala- 
mities as might hereafter be my lot, and to 
preserve tranquillity under all the reverses 
of fortune. 

On the Monday following, when I was at 
Madame de Jofruen's, she received a letter 
from her friend, Mons. de Voltaire, which 
contained nothing particular, unless I may 
mention a humorous account which he gave 
of a gentleman who professed to be an anti- 
quarian, and had lately published five vo- 
lumes, respecting a discovery which he had 
made in the city of Paris and its environs. 
They contained an account of the temples of 
Isis and Osiris, built at Montmartre and St. 
Germain, near Paris, in the time of the 
Druids, and many other fantastic stories, 
with a number of engravings upon tomb- 
stones, and figures, all of which, however, 
wanted some part, having either broken 



129 

hands, feet, noses, or heads. M. de Vol- 
taire very politely assured the gentleman, 
that he did not pretend to be an antiquarian ; 
that he had no doubt the figures must be 
those of some very elevated personages j and 
that, excepting the little circumstance of 
their wanting heads and feet, they appeared 
most singular in his eyes. His letter con- 
cluded with expressing an earnest wish to 
see me, on account of the favourable de- 
scription of me, received from Madame de 
Jofruen. Accordingly, next Monday even- 
ing I was introduced by that lady to this 
wonderful man. The first sight of the philo- 
sopher made such an impression on my mind, 
that I became at once profoundly silent. 
This circumstance was noticed by l'Abbe 
Raynal, and the rest of the company, who 
were somewhat surprised, as they knew me 
to be in general lively, noisy, and talkative. 
Madame de Jofruen asked me with her ac- 
customed sweetness, where I had lost mv 



130 

tongue. " Indeed, Madam," I replied, " I 
have been reflecting, that the knowledge of 
the mysterious sources of the works of na- 
ture, which is in fact so difficult to acquire, 
has been obtained in inimitable perfection 
by this gentleman. When I consider that he 
is already in full possession of it, must I not 
look on his head as a wonderful reservoir of 
wisdom, from which it is poured forth in 
copious streams around the admiring world." 
At this avowal of the sentiments I felt, which 
that respectable old philosopher so justly 
merited, I could perceive his eyes filled with 
an expression of surprise and interest. He 
instantly approached me with enthusiastic 
joy, like one suddenly awakened from a 
dream, snatched me up in his arms, and ad- 
dressing himself to the company, paid me 
this flattering compliment : " Here is a good 
soil, where the best seeds may be sown with 
advantage." " As you are a good farmer," 
I immediately answered, " I beg you will 



131 

clear it of weeds." With this reply, Ma- 
dame de Jofruen, PAbbe Raynal, and the 
rest of the company, wereliighly pleased. 

To return from my digression, I must still 
remain of the same sentiments with respect 
to those great empires and Asiatic kingdoms 
into which I penetrated, during the three 
years of my travels ; and it is with sorrow 
I reflect, that those enchanting holy lands, 
blessed with the most delightful climates, 
and abounding in every species of enjoy- 
ment, are inhabited by nations so far behind 
us in civilization, destitute of all the arts of 
cultivation, and little better than a band of 
plunderers. In passing through such coun- 
tries, a traveller must unavoidably be exposed 
to danger. I reaped, however, this advan- 
tage, from the hazards which I encountered, 
that they served to strengthen in my breast 
that contempt of danger, and resolute per- 
severance in the pursuit of independence, 
which I found very necessary to support me 



132 

under my struggles against an obstinate 
world, and the caprice of fortune. My la- 
bours, however, w*ere the easier, as my views 
were bounded by the prospect of that com- 
petence, beyond which I considered it as a 
foolish ambition to aspire. 

I now prepared to quit those kingdoms, 
which I found not answerable to my pur- 
poses. I must, notwithstanding, acknowledge 
the kind and liberal hospitality I met with 
among the independent Tartars, the good- 
ness of whose dispositions I contemplated 
with the highest degree of esteem. I stop- 
ped for some weeks at Bokhara, which is si- 
tuate in a delightful climate, suitable to the 
nature of its inhabitants : the sky is beauti- 
fully clear, and the earth extremely fertile, 
and covered with the most luxuriant verdure. 
I decline to swell my pages with a particular 
account of those kingdoms, since it was not 
for the purpose of description I travelled 
through them ; and several celebrated writers 



133 

have already gratified the public with ample 
information on this subject, and, as far as I 
have observed, with so much accuracy, as 
would render any detailed account from me 
little better than a mere repetition. My own 
particular acquaintance with the manners of 
those people, obliged me to confirm the 
general opinion of their rudeness and bar- 
barity ; but, since I have found these savage 
creatures capable of receiving the principles 
of morality, as well as civilized nations, I 
should be inclined to ask, Who is to be bla- 
med for this ? they or their chiefs ? who 
may, I think, be compared to the father of a 
young family, who neglects to instil the les- 
sons of good morals into the breasts of his 
offspring ; in which case, even if no worse 
consequence ensue, they must of course re- 
main like stocks in a garden, which have not 
been grafted, and which consequently grow 
up wild flowers, unpleasant to the eye. 

We have abundant proof that all created 
s 



134 

tilings stand in need of cultivation ; and those 
amateurs, who are such ardent admirers of 
simple nature, would never have become dis- 
tinguished for their eminent abilities and ex- 
tensive knowledge, without diligent study 
and cultivation of thosen atural powers, which, 
unassisted, would have placed them far below 
the rank in society they have now attained, 
and sunk them to a level with those savage 
nations I have just mentioned. I began now 
to think that I had spent sufficient time a- 
mongst them, and, being satisfied with the 
wonderful specimen of simplicity which I 
had witnessed, I took leave of their domin- 
ions, and setting out from Karsam, I arrived 
at last safely at Keslaer, the metropolis of 
the Circassian Tartars. I here met with a 
native, named John Daros, a good Christian, 
with whom I remained a month ; and found 
him to be not only a most worthy and agree- 
able man, but also an eminent chymist. 
During my stay, he shewed me several cu- 



135 

rious experiments, which excited my as- 
tonishment, and which chymists in general 
would esteem surprising. He was a Grand 
Master in Masonry, and after a strict exami- 
nation introduced me to the Lodge, where I 
found five spacious rooms richly decorated, 
for what purpose I am not at liberty to say. 
I have remarked, that Masons on the Conti- 
nent are not so accommodating as the Eng- 
lish Masons, who permit strangers to look 
into their Lodges. I was also permitted to 
see four large laboratories for the apprentices 
to work in ; and was witness to some experi- 
ments, which were made by the youngest, in 
the presence of the Grand Master, who was 
highly pleased with his performance. He 
took Antimonium Saturninum, and mixed it 
with some liquid matter of a most pleasant 
perfume. He then put lead into a crucible, 
which soon became liquid, and, infusing 
something to take away the impure scoria, 
he waited until it was clear. He then im- 



136 

mediately introduced the antimony, which 
had been prepared for the purpose, and after 
keeping the mixture a short time upon the 
fire, he took it oft": when it became cold, it 
was removed from the crucible, and we found 
the produce to be a pure crystal. Close to 
the Lodge Is a large building, on purpose for 
the brethren who have been reduced to po- 
verty. They receive liberal pensions, in re- 
turn for which it is their duty to take care 
that the Lodge be kept in order, and the 
iron door regularly locked ; a precaution 
which is very necessary, as the Lodge is ex- 
tremely rich. From their industry they carry 
on a very extensive commerce ; for which 
they are advantageously situated, as their 
contiguity to tiie Black and farther Caspian 
Seas enables them to traffic both with Turkey 
and Persia. 

As I recollected having read, in the works 
of some travellers, an account of a curious 
hot spring near this city, I enquired of Mr. 



137 

Daros if such a curiosity really existed, and 
he convinced me of its reality by taking me 
to see it. A stream of boiling water issued 
from the spring, which had a strong smell of 
naphtha, and fell into a sort of basin, 16 
feet in circumference and 7 in depth. On 
the west there were seven small wells of the 
same kind of water, and an acid spring on 
the east. I had been told, that the water of 
the rirst well would boil a fowl in a short 
time, and was the more readily disposed to 
believe this account, by finding that I scald- 
ed my finger which I had dipped into the 
spring. 

After viewing this curiosity, which corres- 
ponded with the account I had read, except 
a trifling difference with regard to the depth 
and the circumference, which it is not ne- 
cessary to particularize, we returned to Mr. 
Daros. After dinner, my host conducted 
me to his library, which contained a very 
large collection of books, comprising the 



138 

works of the best authors in the Arabic, 
Greek, Latin, and French languages, all of 
which he spoke. He made me a present of 
a very ancient French book of chemistry, 
which I have still in my possession. 

Next day I left Keslaer, and travelled 
rapidly, but unfortunately happened to miss 
the straight road, and found myself in Croa- 
tia, Dalmatia, and the Lower Arabia. I 
thought myself very lucky when I arrived at 
Walachia and Hocime ; as I then began to 
anticipate the happiness, which I should so 
soon enjoy, of once more beholding my native 
country, for which purpose I had only to 
pass the Dniester. I stopped at Kamienice 
to see my friends, but I never told them for 
what purpose I had travelled. Afterwards, I 
passed to Buda, the metropolis of Lower Hun- 
gary ; where I wa$ handsomely received, and 
had a concert, which succeeded extremely 
well. I was amply provided for travelling, 
as, in addition to this, my worthy friend, 



139 

Daros had not sent me away with an empty 
purse. Accordingly, I next made my ap- 
pearance in Germany ; for which country I 
was provided with letters of recommendation 
to Count de Thierheim, Governor of Lower 
Austria, and son-in-law of the Prince de 
Kaunitz, who loaded me with kindnesses. 
He was so good as to lend me, for the con- 
cert, his band of musicians, which was com- 
posed of fifteen young men, all good per- 
formers, the eldest of whom was not seven- 
teen. The concert being very thinly at- 
tended, occasioned this remark to be made — 
" Little concert, little music, little players, 
and little receipt." In fact, Lintz, the me- 
tropolis of Low Austria, is rather small. 

After leaving Lintz, the next place I stop- 
ped at was Ratisbon ; but not finding the 
Prince de la Tour and Taxis, who was then 
at his estate at Teschen, I went immediately 
to Munich, where her Royal Highness the 
Electress Dowager resided, whom I had had 



140 

the honour to visit before, in my travels with 
the Countess Humiecka. She was very glad 
to see me again, and shewed me the same 
kindness as at the time of my former jour- 
ney. She perfectly remembered the parti- 
cular pleasure her illustrious husband had 
felt in conversing with me, and the special 
favour he had done me, by presenting me 
with a chased gold box made by himself. 
She presented me to his most Serene High- 
ness the then reigning Elector. I was often 
invited to the assemblies at Court, and every 
time I was the subject of general conversa- 
tion. They took great pleasure in tracing 
back many events and circumstances of my 
former appearance in that town. His most 
Serene Highness was so good as to appoint 
a day for my concert, all the expences of 
which de desired to defray. 

After having taken my leave of their 
Highnesses, I directed my route to Teschen ; 
where, being arrived, I sent to the Prince de 



141 

la Tour and Taxis to request that I might 
be permitted to pay my respects to him. He 
answered, that he had often seen men of my 
species, and had no curiosity to see any 
more, except one who had travelled with the 
Countess Humiecka, whom he had always de- 
sired to see, without ever having had it in 
his power. This reply from his Highness to 
my request could not offend, but was highly 
flattering to me. When I was told this, I im- 
mediately took the liberty to write to his High- 
ness, that I was not only the very same person 
he had desired to meet with, but that I was 
the bearer of letters from the Princess his 
daughter, and the Prince Radziurl his son-in- 
law, which would confirm the fact ; otherwise I 
should blame myself for taking such a liberty 
as to trouble his Highness. He then sent a 
carriage, with his chamberlain, for me. After 
having bowed to the Prince and to his court, 
I approached his Highness, and told him 
that one of the most charming 1 ladies in the 



142 

world had charged me to embrace him with all 
my heart. Without giving me time to finish 
my phrase, the Prince lifted me up in his arms, 
and said, " With great pleasure I give you 
leave." Then, having put me on the ground 
again, he asked me, who had charged me with 
so agreeable a commission. I immediately 
delivered to him the letters of the Prince his 
son-in-law, and of the Princess his daughter ; 
and told him that, the day before my setting 
out from Warsaw, having waited on the Prin- 
cess to receive her orders, she had been so kind 
as to embrace me, and said, it was on condi- 
tion I should return that kiss to her papa. 
She afterwards had enjoined me to press him 
to take a trip to Poland, to see a daughter 
who loved him tenderly, and to whose hap- 
piness his presence alone was wanting : that, 
should he not consent to this, nothing could 
prevent her from setting out immediately, as 
she was not able to live any longer without 
the pleasure of seeing him. During the 



143 

whole of this recital, the Prince's sensibility 
was evidently displayed : his eyes sparkled 
with tears, and, after having read the letters, 
he embraced me again, and asked many 
questions respecting the manner in which I 
had parted from the Countess Humiecka, 
and the motives that had induced me to un- 
dertake new travels. He seemed satisfied 
with my answers, and engaged me to stay 
for some time with him. 

During my stay at Teschen, there was 
nothing but feasts and entertainments. 
When I took my leave of his Highness, he 
engaged me to pay a visit to the Prince de 
Wallerstein, his son-in-law, who at that time 
resided at Honnaltheim, his countrv seat. 
This proposal was too agreeable to be re- 
fused. Being arrived at Honnaltheim, I was 
presented to the Prince de Wallerstein, by 
whom, considering the recommendation I had 
from his father-in-law, I could not fail to be 
kindly received. But, though he welcomed 



144 

me with all politeness and affability imagin- 
able, I soon perceived that he was labouring 
under a dark melancholy, and seemed to 
value life only from his extreme attachment 
to the Princess his daughter, then four years 
old. I was soon informed of the cause of 
this sadness, in which all his court tpok the 
greatest concern ; and my astonishment ceas- 
ed, when I was told that the moment which 
made him a father, had deprived him of a 
charming and adored wife, for whom he had 
mourned ever since. Thus, she who was to 
have completed his happiness, had been the 
occasion of plunging him into a state of apa- 
thy and insensibility, subsequent to the most 
violent ravings, which had alarmed his court, 
first for his life, and afterwards for his reason. 
I was, however, instrumental in removing 
this sadness for a few moments, as my figure 
and manners seemed to amuse the young 
Princess ; and nothing could make any impres- 
sion upon him, but what interested this child. 



145 

Hitherto I had found every reason to ap- 
plaud myself for the expedient I had taken 
of travelling : I had been every where wel- 
comed with pleasure, and had met with 
much civility. But nothing can be com- 
pared to the reception I found at the court 
of his most Serene Highness the Margrave, 
and her Serene Highness the Margravine of 
Anspach, at TriersdorfF; nor can I find ex- 
pressions strong enough to describe the senti- 
ments of respectful gratitude I shall ever en- 
tertain for that amiable Prince and her High- 
ness, whose generous treatment has made 
the deepest impression on my heart. I pas- 
sed six weeks in that delightful place, amidst 
pleasures and entertainments, and enjoyed 
that friendly protection which is so flattering 
when it comes from the great. 

Some days after I had commenced my 
preparations for setting out, the Margrave 
wrote several letters to his friends, particu- 
larly to the Duke of Gloucester, and to his 



146 

Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland, 
his brother ; and pressed me very much to 
go to London, and deliver his letters as soon 
as I should arrive. I then took my leave of 
their Highnesses. On quitting Triersdorff, 
my only care was to hasten my journey, that 
I might reach England as soon as possible, to 
keep my promise to his Highness the Mar- 
grave of Anspach. 



CHAP. VI. 

Departure for England by Frankfort, Mayence, Man- 
heim, and Strasburgh — Introduction to the Princess 
Christian, aunt to Louis XVIII. — Arrival at Os- 
tend — Storm at sea — Landing at Margate, and 
visit of Custom House Officers — Tale of a Tub — 
Waiter's blunders — Opinion of a stage coach — De- 
parture from Margate, and arrival in London. 

I have already observed, that his Excel- 
lency Sir Robert Murray Keith had prevail- 
ed upon me to visit England, by having as- 
sured me a thousand times, that I could not 
fail of making a brilliant fortune in a coun- 
try where generosity and greatness of soul 
are reckoned among the characteristic virtues 
of the nation. Therefore, after having pas- 
sed rapidly through Frankfort, Mayence, and 
Manheim, I went to Strasburgh, where I had 



148 

the honour to give a concert, under the pa- 
tronage of the Princess Christian, aunt of 
Louis XVIII. the present King of France, 
to whom I had also the honour to present a 
letter of recommendation from the Electress 
of Bavaria, her sister. She politely engaged 
me to spend every evening at her court. This 
kind engagement I considered as an extreme 
favour, since I was convinced that she was 
actuated by far more noble views, than those 
of mere curiosity, in taking so great an in- 
terest in my concerns. She not only pro- 
cured me a good benefit, but kindly advised 
me to pay my visits to those persons who bad 
favoured me with their attendance at my 
concert, furnishing me at the same time with 
their names and residence. I acted agree- 
ably to her wishes 5 from which I derived a 
great advantage, being received by the pub- 
lic with great attention' and politeness, and 
honoured with an abundance of invitations, 
so that I found myself truly happy in the 



149 

midst of so much kindness, and of so agree- 
able a society. The Princess had a large 
party one evening, to which she did me the 
honour of sending me an invitation, and very 
graciously introduced me to the brilliant 
company I found there assembled. She was 
in high spirits ; and, in the course of con- 
versation, brought to my recollection many 
pleasing circumstances which had occurred 
during my stay at the court of Munich, and 
her visit to her sister the Electress of Bava- 
ria. She particularly mentioned my giving 
a preference to her sister the Princess Eliza- 
beth, above all the beauties of the court. To 
this observation, I took the liberty of asking 
the Princess's permission to reply, which she 
most readily granted, saying, " Speak, Jou- 
jou." " If you will allow me, Princess," I an- 
swered, " with due respect to your illustrious 
sister, to confess the truth, I must say, she 
was so highly favoured by nature, that the 
charms of her noble and dignified mind, and 
u 



150 

her numerous accomplishments, gave her an 
irresistible power of attraction. Pardon my 
speaking so freely, but answer me yourself, 
Princess : How many claims to favour did she 
not possess ?" The Princess was delighted 
with my reply, and all the company were so 
well satisfied, that next day I received nu- 
merous invitations for dinners, suppers, and 
assemblies. 

This amiable Princess wished to send me 
to Paris, or to Dresden, assuring me that all 
my wants should be supplied. But I was 
obliged to tell her, that I had pledged my 
promise to Prince Kaunitz, who had so far 
honoured me with his friendship, as to give 
me a pressing invitation to go to England, 
which if I neglected to fulfil, I should be 
guilty of ingratitude. I added, that I had 
so much reason to be well pleased with the 
letters of recommendation which he had pro- 
cured me to that kingdom, that, with their 
aid, it was impossible I should fail of success, 



151 

amongst so generous a people as the English. 
The night before my departure, I received 
from her a handsome gold box, of three 
different colours, which she had directed to 
be made on purpose for me, but which cruel 
necessity afterwards compelled me to dispose 
of, during my residence in London. 

I afterwards directed my course to the 
opulent city of Brussels, where I remained 
two months ; during which time I fortunate- 
ly became acquainted with a Mr. Mills, a 
native of Ireland, who, very prudently con- 
sidering that the circumstances of my being 
an entire stranger in London, and my igno- 
rance of the English language, might subject 
me to difficulties which I had not at all taken 
into my calculation, most politely gave me a 
letter of introduction to his friend Mr. M c 
Mahon, in London, with a request that I 
would deliver it immediately upon my ar- 
rival there. And so scrupulously did I adhere 
to the directions of my friend, that on reach- 



152 

ing that metropolis, I drove directly to the 
door of the worthy Mr. M c Mahon, by whom 
I was immediately received in the politest 
manner imaginable ; and thus, much trouble 
and inconvenience were saved to me. And 
if ever this should fall into the hands of my 
excellent friend, Mr. Mills, I hope it will 
convince him, that I retain a grateful sense 
of all his kind attentions to me. 

Having anticipated my subject, to discharge 
this debt of gratitude, I proceed to state, that 
I embarked at Ostend ; and here I must con- 
fess my inability to describe the grandeur 
and solemnity of the scene, with which my 
mind was at that moment impressed, on be- 
holding again so tremendous a spectacle as 
the sea — such a depth and extent of bois- 
terous and tempestuous water, whereon I was 
so soon to expose my life ! I had a sort of 
foreboding, that it was to be my grave ; which 
was in truth nearly realized. For, during a 
difficult passage of six days, we were con- 



153 

tinually tossed about by storms and tempests ; 
the masts were broken, the sails rent and car- 
ried away, and in short, there was every 
appearance of approaching destruction. And, 
notwithstanding my serious alarms for my 
own personal safety, I may, I hope, be per- 
mitted to add, that my feelings were greatly 
increased by my apprehensions for the com- 
panions of the voyage ; many of whom pro- 
bably had large families, whose comforts 
wholly depended on their lives and health. 
The storm, however, at length happily abated, 
and then our attention was turned to the 
miserable state of the passengers on board ; 
all of whom were either affected by a violent 
spitting of blood, or the most dreadful sea 
sickness, the general consequence of a storm ; 
so that the satisfaction which was felt by all 
upon making the harbour, may more easily 
be conceived than described. 

It was night-fall ere we came in sight of 
Margate, and being also low water, the Cap- 



154 

tain felt great difficulty in approaching with 
his vessel j but, on my earnest intreaty to be 
set on shore, he most politely directed his mas- 
ter to accompany me in the boat with my lug- 
gage \ giving him, at the same time, the strict- 
est injunctions to pay every possible atten- 
tion to my safety and accommodation. The 
master, therefore, together with myself and 
servant, bag and baggage, now steered in the 
packet boat for the shore ; on our reaching 
which a difficulty arose, that almost led me 
to repent having left the vessel, for we soon 
discovered, that we had not any person to take 
care of the boat, whilst my luggage was con- 
veyed to the inn, which provoked me more 
than if I had remained on board ; but, at 
length a man passing by, we asked him, if he 
would procure a large stone, to supply the 
want of an anchor, to moor the boat, offer- 
ing at the same time to make him a recom- 
pence for his trouble. This he readily under- 
took, and accordingly, I dispatched my man 



155 

along with him ; and they having soon re- 
turned with a stone large enough for the 
purpose, and a long rope for a temporary 
cable, we contrived to secure the boat, and 
prepared to move our trunks, in a state of 
perfect security, as we vainly imagined. For, 
what was my surprise, on beholding six men, 
carrying lanthorns in their hands, and ap- 
proaching us from the harbour ! At first I sup- 
posed them to be my old neighbours the Tar- 
tars, near the Borysthenes, or a savage banditti 
from Zehdho, who had landed in England, 
to which they bore an exact resemblance ; 
so that I, who had so lately congratulated 
myself upon a most providential escape from 
the dangers of the sea, now again gave my- 
self up for lost, not doubting that my life 
must eventually be sacrificed ; an idea which 
was considerably strengthened by the cruel 
and wanton manner in which I beheld these 
savages, forcing open the locks of the pack- 
ages, rummaging and searching the trunks 



1.56 

for hidden treasure, as I imagined ; and, on 
their disappointment in not finding any, I 
did not at all doubt that their vengeance 
would fall upon me, so wild and infuriate 
were they in their manners, more resembling- 
wild beasts than men, and ready to knock 
out our brains on the least show of resistance. 
But my fears were speedily dissipated, and 
my mind relieved, on being told, that these 
worthy gentlemen were Custom House Offi- 
cers ; and I afterwards found, that their pro- 
ceedings were fully sanctioned by the laws of 
this land of boasted liberty. But, as I could 
not at that time imagine, that any laws could 
countenance such wanton and unnecessary 
proceedings ; and as I thought that the up- 
most extent of their duty was to prevent 
smuggling, and not to exercise their prero- 
gative to the dread of strangers, I began 
to remonstrate with them on their conduct. 
I found, however, that I gained nothing for my 
labour but a torrent of abuse, which was not 



157 

a little increased by their mortification, at 
not having made any discoveries. Casting, 
however, their eyes around, they soon per- 
ceived the rope plunged into the water ; at 
which I could observe a glance of satisfac- 
tion for a moment enlighten the gloomy 
countenances of these worthy beings, upon 
the prospect which they supposed presented 
itself, of promoting the interests of govern- 
ment ; for I cannot for a moment imagine, 
that they had any views to their own person- 
al advantage ; and I could not refrain from 
smiling at the alacrity with which they set 
about dragging the rope to the surface ; but 
the stone having sunk deeply in the sand, 
increased their difficulties, and I desired my 
servant to give them his assistance, by which 
means the mighty treasure was brought to 
light. Upon which, with great gravity, I re- 
quested that they would accept of so very 
valuable a pebble, as some reward for their 
services ; hoping, at the same time, that it 

x 



158 

might be considered as an earnest of what 
their zeal and activity might expect from 
government, to whom I could not fail to 
communicate every particular of the trans- 
action. On such an occasion, the privilege 
of a reply is generally exercised, and accord- 
ingly, one of these gentry smartly enough 
observed, " No, no ! Sir, keep it to yourself, 
if you are going to London, it may be the 
means of making your fortune." To which I 
replied, " that I was by no means disposed to 
rob him of the fair perquisites of his office, 
but begged him to put it into the box, which 
he had ready upon his back." 

During my conversation with this man he 
wore an upper coat, which concealed what I 
took for a box actually fastened to his back, 
but which, in fact, turned out to be a natural 
hump ; otherwise, nothing could be more 
distant from my ideas, than to deride any 
human being, on account of the infirmities of 
nature. My good friend, however, appeared 



159 

to be cruelly offended at my observation, and 
asked, if I meant to insult him, by comparing 
him to iEsop : to which I very readily an- 
swered, that such a comparison would not 
hold in any other way than this, namely, I had 
always considered ^3Esop as a very eminent 
and renowned character ; in high esteem with 
his king, on account of the beauties of his 
mind ; and, although there was some trifling 
difference between the two, yet I thought 
my friend, to whom I was addressing myself, 
equally entitled to the confidence of his 
sovereign, by reason of his personal exertions 
for the benefit of the revenue. With this 
apology the gentleman acquiesced, and ex- 
pressed himself satisfied; but I could per- 
ceive, it was that sort of satisfaction which we 
feel on taking wormwood drops : we taste a 
little of the bitter along with the sweet. A 
mutual amnesty, however, succeeded, and my 
friend took his leave with that degree of 
silent humility which became his situationo 



160 

. After the departure of these national pro- 
tectors, I availed myself of the opportunity 
. to proceed to the inn, where I arrived late at 
night, and, being very much fatigued and ex- 
hausted, from the roughness of the voyage 
and the length of time that I had been detain- 
ed in the boat, I preferred bed to supper, and 
gave my directions accordingly. 

During the first moments that I was in 
bed, before I experienced the visitation of 
the drowsy god, I felt (as I have since under- 
stood is generally the case after a sea voy- 
age) motions similar to those of an earth- 
quake, which continued, without interrup- 
tion, for some time, but which I at first dis- 
regarded, and turned my head, which I had 
lifted . up, again to the pillow, seeking that 
repose so necessary for my agitated mind and 
weary limbs ; but, on a sudden, I was awaken- 
ed from my drowsiness, by a repetition of the 
same sensations more violent than before : 
the bed shook under me, and I was seriously 



161 

alarmed, being in that state which may pro- 
perly be called half asleep, and recollecting 
that, in my former travels through Italy, I had 
visited Aquila, the capital of Abruzzo, where 
I was informed that the earth had opened, 
and discharged immense quantities of stones, 
which covered the surface of the country for 
several miles round j and that, afterwards, from 
the same volcanos had issued water spouts, 
which deluged the whole surrounding neigh- 
bourhood, as I myself beheld, — all the hor- 
rors of that dreadful situation immediately 
crowded on my mind ; and, upon a third yet 
more violent agitation of the bed, in my ex- 
ertion to avoid the imagined danger, by a 
sudden attempt to leap to- the other side of 
the bed, I found myself — I give you leave 
to guess where, but it will never occur to you. 
Judge, then, my astonishment, to find my- 
self up to the neck in a tub of salt water -, a 
situation not greatly improved by the total 
darkness of the room, and my utter inability 



162 

to form any correct judgment of my real 
situation. 

Whilst immersed in this delightful pickle, 
my ears were saluted by a noise, which I 
could not so aptly compare to any thing, as 
to a volcanic eruption of the earth j and I 
gave myself up now as totally lost : — con- 
ceive, then, how I felt relieved from my 
anxiety, on hearing the voices of the passen- 
gers from the packet, who had just arrived at 
the inn, the flood tide having brought them 
into the harbour. Amongst others, I had 
the satisfaction to distinguish a French offi- 
cer, M. Larmina, who was on his way to 
take a command in the service of the Empe- 
ror of Morocco, and with whom I had formed 
an acquaintance during the passage. He 
spoke the Turkish language very fluently, 
and might have passed very well for a rene- 
gade 

No sooner was my friend Larmina arrived 
at the inn, than, having expressed his appre- 



163 

hensions for my safety, and making anxious 
inquiries after me, he was introduced into 
my room, where he found me in the situa- 
tion I have already described. I immediate- 
ly stated to him all the circumstances, and I 
soon discovered, that I owed great part of 
my fright and alarm to a mastiff dog, which 
happened to be above, in the place to which 
he usually made his retreat at night ; the 
house being slightly built, the noise he made 
shook my room, as much as if it had been an 
earthquake. I must, however, frankly con- 
fess, that all the tragic powers of a Siddons 
and a Kemble combined, would not have in- 
spired my mind with more dreadful ideas 
than this mastiff dog produced. 

Order having been in some degree restor- 
ed, and my friend Larmina having communi- 
cated to our fellow passengers the particu- 
lars of my disaster, which he did not fail to 
embellish with all the humour, of which he 
possessed an abundant share, they immedi- 



164. 

ately thronged into my room, pouring upon 
me their most hearty congratulations, on my 
deliverance from so critical and gloomy a 
situation, and wishing me joy upon my in- 
dependence, and restoration to liberty from 
the tub. They told me, they would not fail to 
celebrate the anniversary of so memorable a 
day, with as much solemnity as the Gun- 
powder Plot, adding, that they would in- 
stantly proceed to offer a Te Deam. But 
to this I answered, that as we were at a con- 
siderable distance from the church, and as 
my imaginary travel last night to Abruzzo 
had procured me an appetite, I should pre- 
fer a good breakfast, (which was according- 
ly ordered) to all the thanksgivings in the 
world. "You perhaps think, my friends," 
added I, " that this is a most unlucky acci- 
dent ; but, I assure you, it does not disconcert 
me. I rather take it as an omen, that though 
I may hereafter be a little tossed about on 
the ocean of life, I shall be able to keep my 



165 

head above water, and find friends at last to 
bring me safe to the shore of peace and hap- 
piness. " You pat a good face upon the 
matter," said they. To which I replied, " I 
have always thought that the best way, since 
I read what happened to the illustrious Julius 
Caesar, on his landing in Britain. He was 
the first who set foot upon the Island ; and, 
in his eagerness to land, he fell, and his 
hands stuck in the mud. On his rising, he 
held them out with a look of despair, con- 
sidering this as a most unfortunate omen ; 
when immediately the presence of mind of 
his soldiers gave that happy turn to the oc- 
currence, which led to the conquest of the 
Country. * You ought,' said they, ' to look 
on this as a most fortunate event ; for by it 
you have taken immediate possession of the 
Island.' You see here, my friends, the fruits 
of looking on the best side of things ; and I 
think you must allow, that the fall of Julius 
was at first quite as unlucky, as this ducking of 

Y 



166 

mine in the tub." My friends . applauded 
my philosophy, and we sat down very cheer- 
fully to breakfast. 

Although money can in general procure 
most of the comforts of life, yet I have never 
been able to discover, that it could subdue 
the invincible obstinacy and stupidity of 
waiters at taverns ; who, for the most part, 
cannot be made to move out of their ordi- 
nary pace, — a circumstance which I have 
always found a considerable tax upon my 
patience. During my stay at this inn, I 
was highly amused by the careless blunders 
of the waiter who attended us ; one of which 
I shall just now mention. I took particular 
notice of the regular motion of his feet, for 
it appeared to me, as if he had adopted 
the cotillion step, or time of § ; and if 
ever he was stimulated to the exertion of a 
quicker motion, it was ten to one but he 
made some gross mistake in the orders given, 
as if he had really been deaf from his in- 



167 

fancy, which was fully exemplified in the 
following instance : — Two gentlemen came 
to the inn, whose names were, as it should 
seem, somewhat uncommon, Mr. Mogg and 
Mr. Porter; and who, it appeared, were mem- 
bers of the Poets' Club, some of whom 
were at that time at our table. Upon these 
two gentlemen being introduced into the 
room, Mr. Bottomlow, the landlord, very cor- 
dially addressed them thus: "Come, Mogg 
and Porter, sit down and warm yourselves 
between us, near the fire." The waiter, as 
usual, wholly inattentive to the business re- 
quiring his care, and listening only to the 
conversation passing between the two gen- 
tlemen and his master, according to the usual 
system of this sort of people, answered direct- 
ly three times, " Yes, Sir !" (as I have since 
found it is the universal custom to answer), 
and having caught only half the sound, in- 
stantly quitted the room with unusual acti- 
vity, and soon returned with a mug of warm 



168 

porter, which he presented to the company. 
At this gross mistake, poor Bottomlow, the 
landlord, expressed great uneasiness ; but Mr. 
Mogg and Mr. Porter enjoyed the joke with 
abundance of good humour, and entertained 
the company with several anecdotes of simi- 
lar mistakes with respect to names, enlivened 
with so much humour, that it was impossible 
not to feel a more than ordinary degree of 
friendship for them both ; and, for my own 
part, I must candidly confess, that I passed 
so very pleasant an evening in their society, 
that it was with no small regret I found my- 
self under the necessity of making prepara- 
tions the following day for my journey to 
London. 

I cannot sufficiently express the astonish- 
ment which I felt, on first beholding a stage 
coach ; a machine which, according to my 
conceptions, was adapted to any purpose 
rather than that for which it was intended ; 
having a short and narrow carriage, upon 



169 

which was suspended a most enormous body 
out of all proportion, and besides so loaded 
on the top with passengers and luggage, as 
to give the whole the resemblance of the 
Tower of Babel. It was not without very 
uneasy sensations that I ventured into a 
carriage of this kind, in the construction of 
which it appeared very clearly to me, that 
the safety of the lives of his Majesty's liege 
subjects had been only a secondary consider- 
ation ; for, there being nothing to counter- 
balance so unwieldy a body, the coach must 
be liable to be overturned by slight acci- 
dents, to the very great risk of the passen- 
gers. Fortunately, however, we arrived in 
London, without any material accident ; and, 
pursuing the directions given to me by Mr. 
Mills, I drove immediately to the house of 
his friend, Mr. M c Mahon, adjoining to the 
Opera House, in the Hay-Market ; where I 
was received by him in such a manner, as 
fully convinced me, that I was not mistaken 



170 

in the account I had heard, and the notions 
I had myself formed, of Irish hospitality. 



CHAP. VII. 

Descriptive account of medicinal springs and salt 
mines of Poland — Wild men of the woods un- 
known in that country — Laughable mistake occa- 
sioned by the ringing of bells — Introduction to the 
Duke and Duchess of Devonshire ; afterwards to 
the Prince of Wales — Visit from the Duke of Glou- 
cester — Admitted to the presence of the King and 
Queen — Attacked by dangerous illness — Curious 
dream — Visit to Bath, Bristol, and Chester ; duped 
by an impostor in the latter city — Arrival in Dub- 
lin ; invitation from the Lord Lieutenant — Return 
to England — Concert at Leeds — Visit to Oxford. 

Mr. M c Mahon welcomed me with such 
marks of civility and friendship, as excited 
in me an anxious wish to visit the country, 
of which he was a native, and so excellent 
a specimen. I soon discovered, that Mr. 
M c Mahon had passed considerable part of 



172 

his time abroad ; by which he had acquired a 
general knowledge of the customs and man- 
ners of many nations which he had visited. 
He possessed also a sweetness of disposition, 
a readiness of communication, and a general 
pleasantry, which are seldom to be attained by 
a constant residence at home ; and which, all 
combined, rendered him one of the most 
agreeable and desirable companions imagi- 
nable. 

Having expressed a wish to be informed 
of the curious productions of my country, I 
readily communicated to him whatever at 
first presented itself to my recollection ; and 
mentioned the astonishing virtues of an ebb- 
ing and flowing spring, in the palatinate of 
Cracow, — similar to that which, since I have 
been in England, I have observed at Tides- 
well, near Buxton in Derbyshire, — possessing 
wonderful medicinal qualities, tending to the 
prolongation of life ; many of the inhabitants 
in the neighbourhood having lived to the 



173 

age of 150 years and upwards, and in some 
instances to 200. This spring, which may 
justly be stated one of the phenomena of 
nature, rises, to the best of my recollection, 
not far distant from the Wielieska and Boch- 
nia, in the neighbourhood of the salt mines ; 
which naturally led me to speak of those 
most striking objects of natural curiosity, 
out of whose wonderful caverns are dug four 
distinct kinds of salt ; one extremely hard re- 
sembling crystal, another soft and trans- 
parent, a third white but brittle, and all of 
them brackish, but the fourth considerably 
less pungent than the rest. These are all 
dug about six miles from Cracow. On one 
side of the mines is a stream of salt water ; 
and on the other, one of fresh. 

My account of these and other particulars 
led me, of course, into a much wider and 
more extended field of description, than I 
will now trouble my readers with ; and I had 
the supreme felicity to find, that what I had 



174 

said, gave some satisfaction to my friend, 
who became more and more anxious to be 
informed, as if his appetite increased by what 
it fed on. He was, above all, particularly 
solicitous to be satisfied, as to the truth of 
the several accounts which he had read and 
heard, respecting wild men of the woods in 
Poland 5 and although I felt a certain degree 
of unwillingness to enter into this detail, in- 
asmuch as I must, of necessity, palpably ex- 
pose and contradict all that had been hither- 
to written on the subject, and give the lie 
direct to numerous writers ; many of whom, 
for the mere purpose of making a book, had 
invented the most ridiculous and fabulous 
Stories, in order to swell the number of their 
pages; whilst others, affecting an air of greater 
plausibility, had endeavoured to impress upon 
the minds of their readers a belief, that the 
neighbouring barbarous nations frequently 
bore off whole villages of people into slavery, 
compelling the women to carry or leave be- 



175 

hind in the woods, their children, to be nurtur- 
ed by the bears, — yet a strict regard to truth 
compelled me to expose the gross absurdity 
of all these stories. And I could not refrain 
from observing, that the writers who had 
thus attempted to impose upon the, world, 
had either never considered the natural feel- 
ing of the mothers of these poor infants ; or 
they had ventured to write upon the subject 
with that degree of confidence which they 
assumed, because that part of the country, in 
which such things are stated to have happened, 
lies in so remote a part of the globe, that they 
could not, or would not, give themselves the 
trouble of inquiring into the truth of their 
statements : but being desirous, at all events, 
to relate some wonderful particulars respecting 
that corner of the world, they -had introduced 
into their works, miracles surpassing that of the 
delivery of Daniel from the lions. I was, how- 
ever, compelled to assure Mr. M c Mahon, that I 
could not recollect a single instance in whick 



176 

a Polish child was so happy as to be deliver- 
ed from the paws of the bears, as Daniel had 
been from the jaws of the lion ; and that, 
therefore, I should not have any very con- 
siderable degree of confidence in committing 
my own children to so polished a mode of 
education. Mr. M c Mahon, upon this, took 
notice of the disposition of the parent bird. 
He observed, that, although, according to its 
nature and habits, it was accustomed to leave 
its young when at a sufficient age to be able 
to provide for themselves ; yet he could by 
no means from thence be led to infer, that 
a mother could, from any motive, be induced 
to leave her child behind her in the wood ; 
and therefore, we both concluded, that the 
whole accounts were erroneously reported in 
the Polish history. • 

From this, the conversation became gene- 
ral j and the astonishing fund of anecdote 
and information possessed by my companion, 
pleasantly beguiled the hours. I was pro- 



177 

ceeding, in answer to his questions, to state, 
that my parents were born in the pala- 
tinate of Kiow, in Ukraine, in the Lower 
Padolia, which lies east from the Upper Vol- 
hinia, and not far distant from the river 
Borysthenes j when my narrative was inter- 
rupted, by the servant introducing coffee. On 
my taking the first cup, I heard a bell pas- 
sing in the street, of which I did not take 
any notice, till it approached the door of Mr. 
M c Mahon ; upon which I instantly made the 
sign of the cross, and bent my knees ; from 
which circumstance, he and his friend (a 
comedian who was in company) immediate- 
ly knowing me to be a stranger in the coun- 
try, determined to amuse themselves at my 
expence, and accordingly, they began their 
devotions. The bells m the street never 
ceasing, we of course continued our prayers, 
till at length I observed the countenance of 
the comedian most wonderfully distorted, as 
if he had received a paralytic stroke, or got 



178 

some disorder in his body, causing the most 
horrid grimaces. I endeavoured in vain 
to resume my cup of coffee ; for, no sooner 
had it reached my lips, than tinkle tinkle 
again went the bell ; down I dropt on my 
knees, and I could not finish a single cup. 
At length, I was induced to enquire into the 
reason why so many priests were employed 
in the streets ; and you will imagine, that the 
answer did not prove at all satisfactory to 
me, when Mr. M c Mahon informed me, that 
I had arrived just at the commencement of 
the plague, and that the whole town was in 
a state of grievous desolation and trouble. 

Whilst I was listening to this information, 
the comedian was rehearsing his part of the 
joke in an adjoining room, and began to cry 
out, in the most piteous tones, " Lord have 
mercy upon us, there are four fallen down 
dead in the street ;" and made the sign of the 
cross with such contortions, that he appeared 
to me to be possessed with a devil. But when 



179 

I observed the wonderful change in his coun- 
tenance, I concluded that he was affected 
by a spasmodic complaint, and I repeatedly 
requested him to send for a doctor ; but 
whilst I was speaking, the bell again began ; 
our prayers of course followed ; and I im- 
mediately declared my determination of 
quitting the town, since I was not yet in a 
hurry to join the dead. Upon which Mr. 
M c Mahon, perceiving me serious, observed, 
that he found I had not acquired an intimate 
knowledge of the history of England, or I 
should have known, that, on the Reformation, 
in the time of King Henry VIII., that mo- 
narch declared himself Supreme Head of 
the Church of England ; that one of his first 
acts, in the exercise of his spiritual jurisdic- 
tion, was the total suppression of the existing 
priesthood, and an abolition of the cere- 
monials of the church ; and that, therefore, 
since he had thus commenced Shepherd of 
the English flock, we no longer behold the 



180 

host, or priests in the streets ; and, as liberty 
of conscience was allowed, there was not any 
occasion for persons to visit the dwellings of 
the people. He concluded with intreating 
me, no more to regard the bells that I heard, 
which only served to announce the postman's 
passing by. Although this information com- 
posed my mind at the moment, yet it was a 
considerable time before I became perfectly 
familiarized to the sound of the bells. At 
length, however, by habit, and the well-timed 
raillery of my friend, I became as reconciled 
to it as the English themselves. 

After having for some time enjoyed the 
agreeable society and instructive conversa- 
tion of my friend, I felt the necessity of 
turning my attention to other considerations 
which more immediately affected my own 
individual interest, and of preparing to act 
my part upon another stage. As I possessed 
letters of recommendation to several of the 
first nobility in the kingdom, I consulted Mr. 



181 

M c Mahon, on the propriety of making use 
of them j who readily agreed with me, that 
no time was to be lost in making my appli- 
cation, particularly to their Graces the Duke 
and Duchess of Devonshire ; and although 
I had every where heard them praised and 
extolled, in the highest degree, for their 
politeness, affability, and desire to please ; 
yet their gracious reception of me so far ex- 
ceeded my most sanguine expectations, that 
any attempt, on my part, to describe it, would 
fall very far short of the justice which I owe 
them. His Grace the Duke did not join us 
in the conversation : I observed that he was 
absorbed in thought. Very likely his Grace 
might be one of the administration at this 
time, which was during the American war. 

As I was going to take my leave of the 
Duke and Duchess, I was presented to Lady 
Spencer, who was so kind as to appoint a 
day to receive me at her house. There I 
had the honour of seeing his Royal Highness 
a a 



182 

the Prince of Wales, to whom Lady Spencer 
graciously presented me j and the Prince re- 
ceived me with his usual affability, which 
deservedly gains him universal esteem. I 
was, about this time, honoured with a visit 
from his Royal Highness the Duke of Glou- 
cester, at whose door I had called, as soon as 
I arrived, to deliver a letter which his High- 
ness the Margrave of Anspach had favoured 
me with for him. As I was not fortunate 
enough to find the Duke at home, he thought 
proper to surprise me by a visit incognito. 
Mr. Cramer, first violin performer at his 
Majesty's concerts, was then with me, who, 
being known to the Royal Duke, disappoint- 
ed his intention of being unknown ; and his 
Royal Highness assured me, that he would 
do every thing in his power to oblige me. 
From that time, this amiable Prince has not 
failed to favour me with proofs of his pro- 
tection, of which I shall speak more at large 
in the sequel. 



183 

The Duchess of Devonshire and her whole 
family still continued their promise, to take 
the most lively interest in all that concerned 
me, conscious that my situation was beneath 
my birth, education, and sentiments. She 
kindly recommended me to all her acquain- 
tance ; in the number of whom I must dis- 
tinguish the Countess of Egremont, who, 
being informed that mention had been made 
of me at court, stuffed one of my shoes with 
cotton, and sent it to the Queen. This 
exciting their curiosity, their Majesties con- 
descended to appoint a day for me to wait 
on them. It is to the Countess of Egremont 
that I am indebted for this honour, who was 
so kind as to take me to her Majesty. The 
King and all the Royal family were present 
His Majesty desirecf me to sit down, and put 
several questions to me. The conversation 
was often interrupted by the witty and agree- 
able sallies of his Royal Highness the Prince 
of Wales. The young Princes and Princesses, 



184 

having recovered from the astonishment I 
had caused them, entered into those famili- 
arities with, me, which were becoming youth 
of their high rank. I had the honour of re- 
maining four hours with their Majesties ; 
who, I flatter myself, were pleased with my 
efforts to entertain them. These efforts were, 
however, nearly fatal to me ; for I returned 
with a fever, and the very next day I was 
dangerously ill. His Majesty was so kind 
as to send me his physician, Sir Richard 
Jebb, by whose attention, and that of my 
good friend Dr. Walker, I recovered in a 
fortnight. 

Various rumours were at that time cir- 
culated respecting my visit to court j and 
it was mentioned in some newspapers, that 
I had received a considerable sum of money 
from their Majesties. These reports were, 
as usual, founded on conjecture only ; for, 
had they the least foundation in truth, I 
would not have omitted to mention the par- 



185 

fciculars, as I consider it my duty to declare 
all the favours I have been indulged with. 
The fact is, that his Majesty vouchsafed 
to treat me as a Polish gentleman ; and, 
though it be an honour to receive favours 
from a king, these marks of Royal conde- 
scension obliterated in me every idea of per- 
sonal interest. I was compelled to suppress 
the dictates of self-love, when the matter in 
question was to provide for the subsistence 
of life. It could not be of any use to apply 
to those, who had never experienced want, 
to feel for my situation ; nor could I expect 
any thing from national interest. Sir Robert 
Murray Keith had given me many letters 
for his friends in England ; and assured me, 
a thousand times, that I could not fail to 
make a splendid fortune there, so sanguine 
were his feelings for his country. But he 
never declared to me, that I must exhibit 
myself. The hopes, with which he had in- 
spired me, I found an empty shadow ; and I 



186 

was obliged, on my arrival in London, to 
adopt the plan suggested by his friends to 
me, of exhibiting myself. These circum- 
stances made such an impression on my 
mind, that I dreamt the following dream : — 
A stupendous giant appeared before me : he 
had a pleasing countenance, and strength in 
proportion to his bulk. At first, I was aston- 
ished and remained for some time mute ; 
when, perceiving that I was rather uneasy, 
he said to me, " Do not fear me, I am your 
friend, and I will introduce you to the know- 
ledge of the world." Then, stooping very 
low, he offered me his hand, and paid me a 
genteel compliment, drew me near to him as 
close as possible, and lifted me up over a 
country, where I saw the lake Asphaltites, 
which I had heard of before. He then threw 
me down, and I fell into that dead sea. I 
began to float upon the top, where I saw 
something rise up, resembling bulls without 
heads : I continued swimming with difficulty, 



187 

and at last reached the bank, where I found 
trees that bear fruit of divers kinds, like apples, 
which were fair and pleasant to the eye. 
After viewing them very eagerly (for I was 
nearly exhausted with want), I pulled and 
opened some, but found nothing but dust. 
I could find no Joseph to explain this dream, 
nor did I experience the least change in my 
situation. I was advised to give a concert, 
and afterwards, I was prevailed upon to make 
an exhibition of myself. 

The pressure of want, and hope of success, 
overcame all those emotions in my heart, 
that made the expedient seem so shocking. 
I gave my first concert by the advice of their 
Graces the Duke and Duchess of Devon- 
shire. In truth, I was frightened at the ex- 
pence, which amounted to a very consider- 
able sum ; but I was amply indemnified, the 
assembly being both brilliant and numerous. 
Had the enthusiasm continued, some con- 
certs given now and then, would have placed 



188 : 

me above want. This, however, was not the 
case ; for, having attempted to give another 
a few weeks after in the same place, the re- 
ceipts scarcely cleared my expences. I was 
consequently obliged to think of some new 
means to support myself. 

At the beginning of the winter following, 
I went to Bath, where I met with many per- 
sons who seemed to entertain a friendship 
for me. I had not been long there, before 
the arrival of the learned pig was announced 
in that city. The proprietor of that wonder- 
ful animal, bringing with him from London 
strong recommendations of its abilities, at- 
tracted crowded audiences of all the gentry ; 
so that I thought it most prudent to return 
to London. On my arrival, respect led me 
to the door of Lady Clermont ; who received 
me with her usual politeness, and related to 
me the whole of her conversation with her 
Grace the Duchess of Devonshire, who had 
expressed her concern at my situation, and 



189 

said I should soon be convinced of it. This 
conversation brought to my mind a meeting 
of many lords in my apartment, about six 
months before, the purport of which was, to 
open a subscription, to secure me an easy 
and decent maintenance for the remainder of 
my days. I flattered myself, the Duke and 
Duchess of Devonshire would have been at 
the head of the subscription : they had often 
questioned me respecting my situation, and 
the concern they seemed to feel for it, was 
so striking, that, for a while, I really flattered 
myself the intended subscription would take 
place. But it failed, and I lost all hopes of 
an immediate amelioration of my circum- 
stances. 

However gloomy may be the general as- 
spect of winter, the sun sometimes smiles in 
spite of the season — resistless in the power of 
his brightness, the least ray of which will 
melt the frozen snow. Equally cheering to 
me, in this winter of my fate, was the appear- 

Bb 



190 

ance of the Misses Metcalfe, whose names I 
am forbid to mention. Whilst kindly medita- 
ting deeds of beneficence, they asked me 
many questions, with that affability and feel- 
ing concern, which, far from denoting an 
eager curiosity, only waited for an answer, 
that might give them an opportunity of en- 
deavouring to assist me. They did not ap- 
prove of my giving a concert, much less of my 
making an exhibition of myself. Their noble 
souls, replete with elevated sentiments, looked 
upon this exhibition with disdain, though 
they did not openly disclose their mind on 
the occasion ; and I was therefore compelled 
to try some other plan, as the visits I receiv- 
ed would by no means support my expences. 
I determined to renew my concerts, the 
profits of which afforded me a temporary 
relief. With this determination I set out for 
Ireland; but, foreseeing this trip would be 
longer than I expected, I stopped at Bristol, 
intending to leave it in a week. I, however. 



191 

remained there two months, and had no reason 
to complain ; for, though I did not intend to 
stay so long, I enjoyed every satisfaction I 
could wish, which I attribute, in part, to the 
marks of friendship shewn me by Mr. Cres- 
pigny, and the generous disposition of the 
inhabitants of this truly opulent city, who 
honoured me with many distinguished testi- 
monies of their benevolence, and proved 
themselves to be as elevated in sentiment, 
as their city is in splendour. 

From Bristol I went to Chester, where the 
civilities and kindness I met with detained 
me some weeks. It was during my stay 
there I got acquainted with one of those 
men, who, having received from nature good 
abilities and a good appearance, think them- 
selves exempt from the trouble of being 
provided with principles of honour and in- 
tegrity ; and who, compelled through their 
misconduct to leave their own country, estab- 
lish themselves in foreign lands, abusing the 



192 

credulity and good faith of those whom they 
find means to inspire with confidence. This 
man assumed the name of the Marquis de 
Montpellier, and for a while was very cau- 
tious not to come to my apartments but 
among great people, with whom he strove to 
act an officious part, in order to give me a 
good opinion of his connexions. Nor did he 
fail in his design : for he artfully persuad- 
ed me, that he was in habits of intimacy with 
the first nobility of Ireland ; that, if he would 
attempt it, nothing could be so easy as for 
him to procure me there a subscription of two 
thousand guineas ; and that, for this purpose, 
he had only to set out before me, to secure a 
house, and announce my coming, in order 
to prepare their minds for my reception ; so 
that I could not help giving credit to all the 
chimeras he amused me with. Thus, the 
pretended Marquis set out, invested with 
full power, and I followed him in a fortnight 
after. 



193 

I recollect, I had a fortunate passage, and 
as Lady Clermont had condescended to give' 
me a letter to the master of the packet, I 
had much reason to be pleased with the at- 
tention and care of the Captain, and all his 
crew ; who, notwithstanding my pressing en- 
treaties, would not accept the smallest re- 
muneration for their trouble. On my ar- 
rival in Dublin, I hoped to find a house 
ready for me j but was extremely surprised 
at meeting my pretended friend, at an inn 
near the port, where he had announced me 
as a great lord. And, thanks to his provi- 
dent care, I fared very daintily, not yet per- 
ceiving that I was his dupe. Nay, it was 
not till a fortnight after, that, being in- 
formed by a respectable person, both of 
the pretended Marquis's character, and the 
harm that such an acquaintance would do 
me, I had wisdom enough to get rid of this 
parasite, by giving him money to cross the 
sea again. 



194. 

When I set out from London, many of my 
acquaintances had been so attentive as to sup- 
ply me with letters of recommendation, as 
well to his Grace the Lord Lieutenant, as t6 
the chief lords and most of the distinguished 
ladies in Ireland. My Lord Viceroy sent me 
an invitation to his court on an assembly day ; 
and, if I may judge from the reception I met 
with, I afforded them much pleasure. Some 
time after, he was succeeded by his Grace the 
Duke of Rutland, under whose patronage 
and that of the Duchess, I had the honour to 
give the Irish nobility a concert at the rotun- 
da. The assembly was extremely brilliant, 
and her Grace the Vice-Queen was the prin- 
cipal ornament of it. The Duke, unfortu- 
nately, the very same night found himself 
indisposed, on which account I was deprived 
of the honour of his presence. His Grace's 
illness gave great uneasiness to the inhabi- 
tants of Dublin ; but, by the skill of his emi- 
nent physician, who ordered him to take exer- 



195 

cise in the open air, he speedily recovered. 
His Grace hunted the next day in his park. 
His complaint was the head-ach, which in 
general seized him in the afternoon. It had 
been long observed that he had a bad diges- 
tion, and of that complaint he died, greatly 
regretted by those who knew him. 

After remaining two years in Ireland, 
which was longer than I intended, in com- 
pliance with several pressing intreaties, I 
returned to England ; and, travelling rapidly 
through Liverpool, Manchester, and Halifax, 
arrived at Leeds, where I intended to give a 
concert, to defray my expences on the road ; 
but found it, upon trial, to be impractica- 
ble, as a society of amateurs were there, who 
did not wish to oblige performers that were 
strangers, and who would not allow any of 
those who played with them, to be engaged on 
any account. Fortunately, I had the patron- 
age of Colonel Wood, who, by his great exer- 
tion and kindness, procured from the neigh- 



196 

bouring towns performers, who attracted me 
a most elegant, profitable, and numerous 
assembly ; for which the gallant Colonel de- 
serves to be mentioned in this page, and his 
name engraven on my heart. 

This concert gained me some reputation ; 
and, in consequence, the inhabitants of the 
town ran eagerly to see me. Amongst my visi- 
tors, I received into my apartments a lady, who 
might, in size, dispute the palm with the cele- 
brated Daniel Lambert. All present fixed 
their eyes upon her, with surprise ; but the 
laws of good breeding soon repressed our 
astonishment. Colonel Wood, with his usual 
politeness, offered her his seat upon the sofa j 
and we began a lively conversation, in which 
the lady did not join, listening, however, with 
an air of contempt, This behaviour displeas- 
ed the whole company ; upon which, Colonel 
Wood winked at me, as much as to say, take 
no notice of her ; and I took this hint. But 
she seized the moment of silence, and asked 



197 

me what religion I professed ? " Madam," I 
replied, "lam a Roman Catholic." I saw 
her instantly turn her head, with a singular 
grimace, saying, there was no hope for me 
to go to heaven. " Excuse me, Madam," 
said I, " don't be so hasty in judging of such 
serious matters ; we find in holy writ, that 
narrow is the gate to heaven." She said, 
she knew that. Then I replied, " I hope I 
have more chance than you ;" looking, at the 
same moment, at her broad bulky shape, simi- 
lar to that of Bacchus. The Colonel and the 
rest of the company could not refrain from 
laughing; and the lady was obliged to bid 
me adieu, and take her departure, with the 
idea I should never meet her in heaven. 
Perhaps she forgot the difference of our size, 
and did not consider how much she must be 
reduced, to be adapted to the measure of the 
gate. However, some one present, pleased 
with our brisk conversation, next day put it 
in the newspapers. But I was not informed 
c c 



198 

of the public opinion, what side they thought 
right or wrong, being obliged immediately to 
set out. 

I passed rapidly through Birmingham, in 
order to be, at the time appointed, at Ox- 
ford, where I made a considerable stay ; not 
losing any time for my own affairs, but mere- 
ly to examine this truly wonderful Univer- 
sity, which must be the admiration of all 
strangers, such is the magnificent and noble 
architecture of its colleges and halls. But 
there is no occasion for my being particular, 
as it has already been amply described by the 
best writers. Nothing is left for me, but to 
observe, that Britain must be a blessed nation, 
and the admiration of the world ; for she 
opens the door of all kinds of knowledge to 
the children of her land, and is like a loving 
mother presenting her breast, to feed her 
hungry infants. 



CHAP. VIII. 

Visit to Blenheim ,■ polite reception from the Duke and 
Duchess of Marlborough — Count Oginski patronizes 
a concert — Interview with his Royal Highness the 
Prince of Wales — Introduction to the Prince de 
Mecklenburgh — Arrival at Norwich, and concert 
there — Invitation to Broken, and kindness of Mrs. 
Brown — Treacherous conduct of a Prenchman- — 
Description of Cambridge — Arrival at Bury St. 
Pdmunds ; kindness of the family of Metcalfe — 
Journey through York to Edinburgh — Eidogium on 
Scotland — Departure through England for Prance 
— Arrival at Boidogne and Paris ; departure thence 
to Cherburg and Guernsey. Description of the 
island and its inhabitants. 

During the time I remained at Oxford, 
one day a gentleman came and desired me to 
go and spend the evening, at about eight or 
nine miles distance. He would not tell the 



200 

place, but assured me, that a carriage should 
take me thither, and I should not repent my 
visit. I complied with his request ; and how 
great was my surprise, when I found myself 
conveyed to the splendid palace of Blenheim, 
where their Graces the Duke and Duchess 
of Marlborough welcomed me in the most 
affable manner ! The Duchess herself vouch- 
safed to shew me the apartments, and point 
out all the curiosities they contain. 

On my return home from Blenheim, I 
was informed, that his Grace the Duke of 
Marlborough wished to have one of my shoes, 
to place in his cabinet among other rarities. 
I had too much reason to be flattered with 
this nobleman's affability, not to send him 
a pair of them immediately, to which I join- 
ed the only pair of boots I ever had made for 
me, which I brought from Poland ; and his 
Grace was very well pleased, I heard, with 
this mark of attention. 

At length I returned to London, after 



201 

about three years' absence. I met there the 
Grand General of Lithuania, Count Oginski, 
who had shewn me so much kindness during; 
my stay at Paris. He seemed to take much 
pleasure in seeing me again, and promised to 
assist me on all occasions with his name and 
credit. Therefore, this was a most favour- 
able opportunity for me to perform another 
concert, under the patronage of this amiable 
Count, so approved for talents of every kind, 
and who had deigned to teach me the first 
principles of music. 

The day appointed was the 30th of June, 
to the best of my recollection, and his Royal 
Highness the Prince of Wales promised to 
be present. He bad at dinner with him, on 
that day, his Highness the Prince de Meck- 
lenburgh ; and, wishing to introduce me to 
this Prince, he sent his carriage for me. I 
found their Highnesses at table, with whom 
I sat down a full hour, and from thence set 
out for the concert. Though it was tolerably 



202 

well attended, and the company very select, 
yet I should have suffered a loss, if the gene- 
rous Count Oginski had not paid Mr. Galini 
all the charges of it. 

An erroneous report had been propagated 
of the Count, that he was king for three 
days ; and there cannot be a doubt that, 
from his abilities and virtue, he was entitled 
to the crown. However, the fact is this, — he 
was proposed as a candidate j but, according 
to my recollection, the Court of Petersburgh, 
having a friendship of many years' standing 
with Stanislaus Poniatowski, by whom Catha- 
rine Empress of Russia, obtained her in- 
fluence in the political affairs of Poland, she 
appointed her friend Poniatowski to be King 
of Poland. Therefore, Count Oginski was 
disappointed, by the opposition of this strong 
party of 89,000 of the Russian army. I shall 
not enter into a particular account of this 
proceeding, since I keep a journal merely of 
my own actions. 



203 

After the departure of Count Oginski, 1 
set out for Norwich. On my arrival there, 
I was informed of the grand Oratorios, about 
which the whole town was in a state of rap- 
ture. Mrs. Siddons was also engaged to per- 
form every night at the theatre. 

The week after the Oratorios were over, 
Mr. Cramer, having heard of me, came to 
see me, and persuaded me to give a concert ; 
offering me every assistance in his power, 
and telling me, if I could get Mrs. Siddons 
to appear at the Assembly Rooms, I should 
have the whole town. So my good friend 
Cramer consulted with me what was best to 
be done. We applied to a lady of rank, and 
she wrote Mrs. Siddons a letter, replete with 
the most tender expressions : in the conclu- 
sion, she said, " I make no doubt, from your 
extreme fine feelings, of your complying with 
my request, and I expect much pleasure in 
seeing you at the concert." Mrs. S. returned 
an answer, that a previous engagement pre- 
vented her having the pleasure of attending it. 



204 

I regretted extremely that I was thus depri- 
ved of the powerful aid, which I should have 
received from the patronage of a lady, so uni- 
versally admired for her unrivalled talents, 
and numbering so many persons of distin- 
guished rank among her fiiends. Immedi- 
ately after Mrs. Siddons's departure, it hap- 
pened that Mr. Mathews, one of the most 
eminent comic actors of the age, arrived in 
Norwich, and was announced to perform on 
the same night for which my concert was ad- 
vertised. This gentleman, however, with his 
accustomed generosity and politeness, put off 
his performance to a future time, rather than 
I shouid suffer by the competition. I cannot 
omit this opportunity of paying my humble 
tribute of friendship to that worthy indivi- 
dual, in whose society I have since passed 
many pleasant hours. 

A few days after my concert, Mrs. B— , 
a lady of great consequence, sent me an in- 
vitation to go to Braken, about six miles 
from the town. This amiable lady gave me a 



205 

gracious reception. By her greatness of soul 
the public must know her j as she cannot dis- 
guise her bounty, it being written with in- 
delible characters in the hearts of many un- 
happy creatures, whom she relieved from 
their calamities, both in town and country, 
in a manner as judicious as charitable. Per- 
ceiving that I had not been accustomed to 
dependence, even on the public, she con- 
sidered my situation as the more painful and 
humiliating to my feelings. Her great good- 
ness induced her to set forward a subscrip- 
tion j and, from this, I perceived a good pros- 
pect of a decent maintenance. 

But here, may I be permitted to fix my 
reader's attention for a moment, and beg him 
to take notice of the cruel event which took 
place ? Having soon afterwards visited Paris, 
a Frenchman, of the name of Dertreval (who 
possessed an amazing stock of wickedness in 
his mind), artfully laid a plan, which depri- 
ved me of the confidence of my protectress. 
d d 



206 

This fellow, renouncing all pretensions to 
honour as well as to virtue, and disgracing 
the name of his nation, like an evil spirit 
concealed under a human shape, watched for 
an opportunity to deceive, which he found 
the moment I arrived in the French metro- 
polis. I fell dangerously ill ; and when the 
physician gave little hopes of my recovery, 
this villain forged a letter in my name, and 
demanded the whole of the money from this 
benevolent lady. My name was necessary 
at the bottom of the letter, as I had desired 
him to write for the sum of twenty pounds. 
He read to me a letter, which I thought a 
very proper one ; but he had another artfully 
concealed, which he slipped into my hand, 
and I signed this treacherous letter, without 
perceiving the deception. Thus I became a 
victim to the wiles of a tempter, of whom I 
was totally ignorant j but if I have suffered 

in the opinion of the amiable Mrs. B , 

this will not acquit me of the gratitude I 



207 

owe to her : the remembrance of her kindness 
must remain with me, and be carried in my 
heart. 

I had long intended to travel through 
Scotland, for which country the same Mrs. 
B >, to whom I was under such obliga- 
tions, gave me several letters of recommen- 
dation, and I set out for Scotland. But this 
being rather a long trip, I took, in my way, 
the University of Cambridge, where I stop- 
ped ; for which place my benefactress, Miss 
Metcalfe, sent me a letter of introduc- 
tion. This powerful letter opened me the 
door of the whole University ; and if it is 
allowed to me to give a little sketch, I will 
try to describe some particulars which I re- 
collect of it. There are twelve colleges, and 
four halls. The Senate- House is a most 
beautiful edifice. Trinity College, with its 
library, is also a grand and noble structure. 
In the library of Corpus Christi College is a 
wonderful collection of manuscripts of the 



208 

ancient writers, which was preserved at the 
destruction of the monasteries, as the master 
of the college informed me. This surprising 
University is not so wonderful for its archi- 
tectural splendour, as for its antiquity and 
depth of science. 

The town of Cambridge cannot be com- 
pared to Oxford, where the colleges give 
such advantage, and so beautify the place. 
As far as I recollect, Cambridge is not equal 
to it in that respect. But the affability of the 
gownsmen, and the politeness of the inhabi- 
tants, attract the attention of the stranger ; 
and it is with regret he parts from them. 
What made me leave Cambridge sooner than 
I had intended, was this : — I found that Bury 
St. Edmund's was not far off, where the 
worthy family of Metcalfe had a residence ; 
and I considered this the best opportunity 
I could have to perform my duty, and pay 
my respects to them. Consequently, the day 
after my concert, which was very brilliant, I 



209 

left Cambridge ; and arrived in the evening 
at Bury St. Edmund's, and found that the 
whole of this amiable family was at their 
country seat, to the best of my recollection, 
about a mile from the town. They received 
me with an affability, which I found even 
much more gratifying, than the highest de- 
gree of their bounty. They condescended to 
procure me a comfortable lodging in the 
town ; and, to prove the liberal sentiments 
of their mind, paid all expences during my 
stay. I esteem it not the smallest favour, 
that Miss Margaret Metcalfe asked me many 
questions concerning the situation of my pre- 
sent affairs, dictated not by curiosity, but 
purely by the goodness of her mind, which 
took an intire interest in my welfare. I con- 
cealed nothing, but took the liberty to in- 
form her of all particulars, and of the amiable 

Mrs. B having opened a subscription at 

Norwich. 

At hearing this last part of my affairs re- 



210 

ported, my benefactress was much gratified ; 
and, soon after, honoured me with an addi- 
tional proof of her liberality, by raising a sum 

of money, and sending it to Mrs. B , at 

Norwich. I found my soul deeply impressed 
with admiration of her kindness, conferred in 
so noble a way ; and my heart was ready to 
cry out with joy, when I reflected how care- 
fully my welfare was watched over by my 
protectress. For, as the, sun peeps through 
the gloomy sky, to ripen the little mustard 
seed ; so did the brightness of her eye, beam- 
ing with generosity, shine on my humble 
merits, and disperse the dark cloud of my 
adversity. During my stay at Bury St. Ed- 
mund's, this excellent family honoured me so 
far, as to interest themselves in patronising 
my concert ; and gave me an immediate proof 
of their eagerness to serve me, by presiding 
at my benefit. The company was brilliant 
and numerous : I cannot compare it to any 
thing but a London audience. But this was 



211 

not surprising, as all the town and its envi- 
rons waited for an opportunity to oblige 
them ; so far had they gained the affection of 
their friends, by a goodness which is deserv- 
ing every blessing. 

After this profitable concert, which enabled 
me to pay all expences, more than what were 
incurred on my journey to Scotland, I in a 
few days took leave of my benefactors, and 
set out for Edinburgh ; but, as Bury St. Ed- 
mund's was rather out of my road, I was 
obliged to cross Cambridgeshire and Lincoln- 
shire, and to come to York, where I found 
the direct road to Edinburgh. 

On my arrival in the Scottish metropolis, 
I paid my respects to Lord Dumfries ; and, 
having delivered a letter of recommendation, 
I was made truly happy by the most gracious 
and cordial reception. This illustrious house 
of Dumfries^ comprehending the Countess of 
Loudon, at present Lady Moira, deigned im- 
mediately to introduce me among the circle 



212 

of their first friends ; where I had the honour 
to become acquainted with the amiable Colonel 
Hope and his worthy brother, who seemed to 
take the most lively interest and the greatest 
pleasure, in all that related to me. The Co- 
lonel conferred on me the honour of his pa- 
tronage ; and, finding that a concert would be 
more proper than any thing that could be 
done, he took the management of it entirely 
into his own hands, and conducted the business 
for my welfare. To give his own endeavours 
additional strength, he moved the hearts of 
his friends, among whom were their Graces 
the Duke and Duchess of Buccleugh, the 
Countess of Loudon, and, through her in- 
fluence, Lord Moira, Commander in Chief 
in Scotland ; therefore, it was impossible for 
the concert to fail under such noble auspices. 
In fact, the Colonel's powerful influence and 
exertions procured me a numerous and bril- 
liant assembly. For this generous conduct 
of Colonel Hope, I am bound to entertain 



213 

the most lively sentiments of gratitude. This 
concert terminated with a ball ; which pro- 
cured me two advantages — a considerable 
sum of money, and the opportunity of form- 
ing an acquaintance with the most respectable 
persons of that city. I passed some weeks 
in Edinburgh most pleasantly, and was so 
fortunate as to attract the particular atten- 
tion of that generous and amiable people. 

My sentiments by no means accord with 
those of the great Dr. Johnson, from whom, 
I am afraid, the Scottish nation did not meet 
with an equal return, for the kindness he 
received from their generous hearts ; for I 
have been told, he wrote a Journey, in which, 
thinking it would be beneath him to acknow- 
ledge some obligations due to them, he em- 
ployed his pen in a description of their man- 
ner of living, education, and Universities, so 
low and so offensive, as to disoblige the whole 
nation. But, for my part, I at first gave little 
credit to this report, concerning a man of such 
e e 



214 

knowledge, as I expected more liberal senti- 
ments from the high abilities, and strength 
of sense and reason, which he was known to 
possess. Therefore, I could not help taking 
his part, and I defended his cause with some 
degree of enthusiasm ; at which time, a gen- 
tleman, in whom I found a very strenuous 
opponent, and who was a bitter enemy of 
Dr. Johnson, obliged me to give up my de- 
fence ; and proved to me, that the Doctor, 
with all his scholastic learning, was a good 
deal similar to highly polished steel at Shef- 
field : for when this beautiful work is divested 
of its polish, we find only a rough and unsightly 
appearance. At hearing this, I was put to 
silence, and was soon brought to acknowledge 
my error; finding Scotland equal to any 
nation, both in the richness of its soil, and 
beauty of its situation : their manner of living 
is splendid and luxurious ; and the candour, 
probity, frankness, and affability, of this truly 
amiable and benevolent nation, would render 
a desert delightful. 



215 

My mind differs in sentiment from this 
great writer, Dr. Johnson ; and how can I 
disguise the truth ! for I feel myself full of 
gratitude, when I reflect on the gracious re- 
ception I met with. If I am asked, (as in- 
deed I expect to be,) how I could boldly ven- 
ture to compare the richness of the soil of 
Scotland to tha^t of other countries, I could 
easily reply — that they who are best ac- 
quainted with Scotland, very well know that 
that nation never begs assistance of her 
neighbours, to support her wants, either in 
agriculture or in science, as she has both in 
the greatest perfection. Their Universities, 
however ungenerously described, have 5 in 
fact, Professors of the greatest knowledge. 
At the University of Edinburgh, Dr. Hope 
is particularly eminent for his depth in 
science. It must be understood, too, that 
the Scotch nation is as rich in agriculture as 
in science, having very experienced farmers. 

The south and west parts of Scotland a- 



216 

bound in minerals, and are extremely fertile, 
and the ground is well cultivated ; but I ob- 
served, not only this part of the country, but 
in general all the kingdom, to be well pro- 
vided with corn. I include the islands of 
Shetland, the Orknies, and the Hebrides ; 
the soil of which abundantly furnishes the 
inhabitants with corn, and also with vege- 
tables, and other productions of the garden. 
There are likewise marie, slate, and quarries 
of marble and of freestone, together with tin, 
lead, and silver mines. The lakes and rivulets 
abound with excellent fish. Gentlemen of 
property may live there with elegance, hav- 
ing good things in profusion ; and the com- 
mon people, very comfortably. The build- 
ings in these islands are much superior to 
what Dr. Johnson has described them to be ; 
and the manners of the inhabitants, civil and 
hospitable ; — but that is their national cha- 
racter. I recollect, with pleasure, my first 
introduction to Scottish society, at Colonel 



217 

Hope's ; where I found elegant apartments, 
adorned with beautiful women, polite in their 
manners, and lively in their conversation. 
The natural bloom of their complexions, their 
majestic air, and graceful behaviour, must 
strike every foreigner with admiration : in 
short, in my journey through Scotland and 
its islands, I found every thing to my satis- 
faction. 

I was now bound for France ; and I re- 
solved to stay at some town, with a view to 
defray the expences of so long and tedious a 
journey. I succeeded pretty well at York, 
Bath, and some other places upon my road ; 
where I received both pleasure and profit, as 
I had done before, in several parts of this 
kingdom. 

I landed at Boulogne early in the spring, 
and succeeded in forming an acquaintance 
with some amateurs in music ; who, among 
many favours, procured me a concert, and 
very politely performed themselves, to save 



218 

my expences. I then set out for Lisle, in 
Flanders, where I formed an acquaintance 
with the manager of the playhouse, who 
offered me his assistance, lent me his stage, 
and provided performers for my concert \ but 
he wished to go half and half in the expences 
and profits. I made no objection, but imme- 
diately agreed to his proposal. Meantime, 
I could not have thought this gentleman so 
learned and deep in his profession as I found 
him to be : indeed, so admirable a proficient 
was he in the science of arithmetic, particularly 
in division, that I could not find any thing for 
my share of this benefit, but a cypher. There- 
fore, after this experience from my master, 
whom I found rather dark in his method of 
teaching the art of reckoning money, I made 
my stay short. It was just after the com- 
mencement of the revolution, and that ex- 
traordinary event engrossed the attention of 
all : I thought, therefore, I might succeed 
better in going to Paris. 



219 

I arrived in the capital, in June the same 
year, and had once more the pleasure to see 
many noblemen, who knew me when I was 
there before, and who now renewed their civi- 
lities. The Marquis D'Amazaga, interested 
himself in my behalf, I then attempted a 
concert, which, by no means, answered my 
expectation, though seconded by the Duchess 
of Orleans, no less eminent for her benevo- 
lence than for her rank ; and on mature re- 
flection, I clearly perceived, that all Paris, 
the ladies not excepted, were absorbed in 
contemplating their new form of constitu- 
tion and that this grand object banished 
every other idea. I had little to expect from 
the accustomed urbanity of the French no- 
bility ; and my purse, being very low since 
the twist given it by Dertreval, must have 
been totally exhausted, had I remained much 
longer there. 

I found that I was swimming against the 
stream, and therefore resolved to go to Cher- 



220 

burg, which is the nearest French port to 
Guernsey, where I wished to be ; and having 
made a bargain dear enough with the master 
of a smack, I went on board the 24th of 
March ; but, meeting with bad weather, I did 
not arrive till the 29th at night. Though 
many in my place would enumerate the 
imminent dangers they had experienced in 
this voyage of fifty-four miles, I shall content 
myself with just saying, I was not sorry when 
I got on shore. No other loss was sustained, 
than that of a fowl, which rinding itself too 
closely pent up in the hold, jumped over 
board, to be more at liberty. I had no room 
to lie down in this vessel, though only three 
passengers were on board: however, I was 
never sea-sick. Our vessel was worked by 
the Captain, without a sailor. It was called 
the Little St. John ; but the inhabitants of 
Guernsey gave it a more proper name, and 
called it a hencoop. 

When I arrived on the island, I delivered 



221 

my letters of recommendation, addressed to 
some of the principal inhabitants. I remain- 
ed there two months, and gave a concert. 
The number of handsome ladies who attended 
it, made a beautiful appearance in the room. 
This charming island is twenty-one miles in 
circumference, and the country pleasant and 
fruitful ; for, in so small a compass, they 
make yearly two hundred and fifty barrels 
of cyder. The air is good, the water excel- 
lent, and trade flourishing. There was a 
citadel, besides other forts, with batteries of 
cannon, surrounding this island, though well 
fortified by nature. 

The Governor kindly gave me an invita- 
tion on St. George's day, to meet all the 
officers of the garrison, who were invited to 
celebrate the King's birth-day. He shewed 
me every attention, and the rest of the gen- 
tlemen were by no means deficient. The fa- 
vourable reception I met with from the in- 
habitants of Guernsey, and the pains they 

Ff 



took to serve me, particularly those to whom 
I was recommended, claim my sincere and 
most respectful acknowledgments ; and I 
esteem myself much indebted to them. 



CHAP. IX. 

Return to England — Visit to Hereford and Warwick 
—Digression — Singular demand at Coventry — Bir- 
mingham — Imposition of an innkeeper — Visit to 
Mr. Boulton's manufactory at Soho — Eulogy on 
Freemasonry — Arrival at Derby ; inundation there 
—Voyage from Liverpool to Dublin — Noble con- 
duct of the captain of the packet — Serious reflec- 
tions — Melancholy history of a black cat — Visit to 
Cork ; successful concert there — The butcher's lady 
and the marrotv bone — Excursion to Kinsale ; pro- 
ductive and brilliant concert — Voyage to Cork, and 
turbulence of the sea — Impression made upon me by a 
lady's nose. 

I sailed from Guernsey in a larger vessel 
than that which conveyed me to the island ; 
and, on my return to England, visited some 
towns where I had not been before, especially 
Hereford, where I stopped some time, and 



224 

gave a concert. It was attended by the most 
distinguished families of the town and neigh- 
bourhood, by whom I was loaded with kind- 
ness ; and, in a more peculiar manner, by 
the worthy family of Mr. Cam. I must say, 
Herefordshire, in my opinion, is one of the 
most fertile counties in England, and cele- 
brated for its cyder. From thence I set out 
to Coventry, passing through Warwick. The 
last-mentioned town I found a curious place : 
I therefore stopped one day to examine it. 
I beheld a town, situated upon a rock, hav- 
ing the appearance of great antiquity. It 
may be approached by four ways cut through 
the rock. All those roads meet four streets, 
and I found myself conducted to the center 
of the town ; the walls and houses of which 
have cellars in the rock, as dry as possible, 
and surprisingly neat. 

The town of Warwick makes me recollect, 
that, in my return from Little Tartary, I took 
the road nearest adjoining my native coun- 



try of Kiow, and passed round a mountain in 
the deserts of Podolia, under which I found 
some curious grottos. A little further on, a 
gentleman stopped me, and politely request- 
ed me to take my dinner with him. I ac- 
cepted his obliging invitation with pleasure, 
and he kindly conducted me to his house, 
through enchanting groves, and cut rocks, 
which, throughout, were extraordinarily bril- 
liant, displaying a number of different co- 
lours, of the nature of crystallized mines. I 
inquired, if metals were found there. He 
. answered me, that those rocks produced pre- 
cious- stones, such as crystal, topaz, jasper, 
opal, onyx, sapphire, ruby, and spar. 

Next, I found a variety of fruit trees plant- 
ed like a forest, which led to a beautiful cot- 
tage, with spacious gardens adjoining to it. 
At the top of these was a monstrous rock, 
with a spring of good water, which formed a 
gentle rivulet, and fell into the river Dnies- 
ter, with a noise that caused sensations 



226 

which would be pleasing to such as like soli- 
tude ; or to writers of novels, fond of purling 
streams. On the other side of the rock was 
a grand cave, dignified with a most magni- 
ficent temple, having an altar richly adorned 
with wonderful and beautiful stones ; and 
round the sides and top of the temple were 
spar, crystal, and stones of various kinds ; 
so that, at the time of divine service, when it 
was illuminated, the reflection of the light 
upon those glittering stones, gave an air of 
magnificent splendour, which, I confess, filled 
my heart with amazement ; finding, in such a 
place, so noble a house of God. My host 
said to me, " If those who are warped 
in their reason from the truth of facts, 
could attend solemn service in this temple, 
they would believe what they have rejected, 
and ripen in faith ; and not let their ideas 
wander in clouds, like the Mahometans and 
some other nations, unfit to be called Chris- 
tians, who pick up their system of morals, 



227 

partly from the Pagan philosophers, and 
partly from our Holy Book, the best of which 
they reject, and adopt that which is most 
consistent with their own loose principles. 
The monarchs and nobles of those unfortu- 
nate people, take example from the pride 
and the mean sentiments of Holofernes, who 
confirmed the errors of his master, saying, 
that there was no other God but Nabuchodo- 
nosor." 

Pursuing the religious subject into which 
he had entered, I replied in the following 
manner : " It has, in general, been observed, 
that there is much presumption in those 
whom the Supreme Being has allowed to be 
above their fellow creatures. We frequently 
see them blinded by ambition, which is next 
to folly : but we ought to admire, and should 
take example from, such great men as David, 
and his son Solomon ; both of whom walked 
humbly in the sight of God, and were blessed 
with victory, riches, and wisdom. There 



228 

are, however, too many like Nabuchodono- 
sor, who adopt their own imaginary gods and 
fantastic gospel ; who have reason to blush at 
hearing the name of David, because the Lord 
was with him, and he glorified his Maker." 
With these words, I bid him farewell. 

To return from my digression : No sooner 
had I arrived in the city of Coventry, than a 
messenger from the Mayor appeared, with a 
demand for me to pay five pounds, for grant- 
ing permission to give a concert. By this 
time I found my pocket rather begin to be 
low, and sent the following answer by the 
Mayor's servant: "To-morrow, atone o'clock, 
you may come, and I will comply with your 
request." I immediately ordered a post chaise, 
to be#ready at five o'clock next morning, and 
set out for Birmingham, eighteen miles off, 
where the worshipful Mayor might find rae 
at the hour appointed. 

On my arrival at Birmingham, not having 
a lodging provided, 1 was obliged to drive to 



229 

the inn. Mr. Sharp, the innkeeper, being a 
man in the constant practice of receiving 
strangers, seemed to me to use no ceremony 
with his newly-arrived friends, but kindly 
made his appearance in my room, with a bill 
of his excellent ragouts for dinner ; but, to my 
great disappointment, it was the time of 
Lent, and I made choice only of a bread 
pudding. This raised his curiosity, and he 
asked me, if I were under the Holy Father. 
" Yes," said I to him. He replied, " I am 
of the sect of John Wesley ;" and at the 
same time promised, that next day I should 
have a different kind of pudding. I had now 
provided myself with lodgings, before I left 
his house, where I had been rive days. I re- 
ceived my bill, in which I found five pud- 
dings charged five pounds. I must say, his bill 
stupified me 5 but, at last, I recovered from 
my astonishment, and asked him, if the new 
gospel of this Apostle Wesley furnished him 
with this, lucrative inspiration ; because, in 
g g 



230 

our Sacred Books, we are prohibited from 
making such an attack on the pockets of our 
fellow-creatures. But he would not hear 
what I said, nor accept of any other terms ; 
so I was obliged to put my money upon the 
table, and very gladly took my leave of this 
holy gentleman. 

At my new lodgings, a few days after, I 
fortunately met with a brother Mason, Mr. 
Bisset, a Scotch gentleman, of genuine polite- 
ness, and an open heart. He was secretary 
and treasurer to the Debating Society, and, 
through the interest of this worthy man, I 
was made a member of the same, and honour- 
ed with a silver medal, with which Mr. Bad- 
does, the president, was at that time the only 
gentleman decorated. Some time after this, 
I was invited to Mr. Boulton's, of Soho, not 
far from the town, where I spent an agree- 
able day in his company ; during which time 
he was pleased to inform me, that Birming- 
ham was originally a village, belonging to 



231 

a gentleman of the same name, whose monu- 
ment I saw next day, in the old church. 
He gave me a still further account of this 
extraordinary village, the extension and im- 
provement of which were solely owing to 
the industry of a man, who introduced the 
manufacture of gilt buttons. Such a specu- 
lation certainly deserves our admiration ; but 
I found Mr. Boulton's machines for coining 
money, a still more wonderful invention, 
each of which is capable of striking off one 
hundred pieces per minute. 

Birmingham has the appearance of the first 
town in Europe, for the invention of every sort 
of mechanics. I observed, that the inhabi- 
tants have no other amusement, but that of 
employing their whole ingenuity in contriving 
new machinery. The population is very nu- 
merous and opulent. I tried to give a con- 
cert, thinking I might succeed ; but it turned 
out like a frosty night upon the blossom of a 
tree. So finding this was a bad climate to 



232 

ripen my fruit, I prepared to depart.. 4 But 
the next day, I had an invitation to go to 
Henley, to attend the establishment and con- 
secration of a new Free-Masons' Lodge. The 
particulars of this I cannot give. Meantime, 
I may be allowed to say, that there is no- 
thing in the world can be compared to the 
sublime law of Masonry. However its mem- 
bers may differ in their religious professions, 
there is no dispute, no jealousy among them : 
all are tolerated, and every thing governed 
with the greatest harmony and love, no less 
beneficial to inward virtue, than to external 
order. Upon such a basis of reason stands the 
noble law of Free-Masonry. Further infor- 
mation on this subject it would be improper 
to give ; and those who pretend to publish 
our concerns, must not be relied on, for cer- 
tainly those authors never professed Masonry. 
Writers have thought fit to exercise their 
wit upon this subject, as they have been in 
the constant practice of doing upon all others, 



233 

of which we have many proofs. By this 
means, we find most profound philosophers 
falling into errors ; having merely written a 
heap of conjectures, and obstinately endea- 
voured to establish their own obscure ideas. 
As an example, we may take Epicurus's 
system of the origin of man, and of all other 
animals, sprung, as he asserts, from the vigo- 
rous seeds of the earth. It is a pity, that 
such a man had so gloomy a prospect of the 
future state of the soul ; but, to conclude the 
matter in a word, Epicurus should have been 
sent to the Divine Author of the world, and 
the Writer on Masonry, to the Master of the 
Lodge. Then would they have been able 
to give a perfect account of the facts : other- 
wise, we can find nothing in their works that 
can be relied on ; for, all truth being con- 
cealed from them, both authors must remain 
full of perplexity and confusion. 

I now took my road to Derby, and, on my 
arrival, procured lodgings on the south side 



of the town, situated near the little rivulet 
called Martin Brook. So far as I can recol- 
lect, the situation was pleasant, and the house 
commodious, having a shop furnished with 
many good things, luxurious enough to re- 
gale the greatest duke ; therefore, I deter- 
mined to treat myself according to my cir- 
cumstances. Next day, just at the beginning 
of day-break, my illusion of a feast was turn- 
ed to a fast. I heard the cry of the watch- 
men, and found the whole town in alarm and 
confusion, caused by the unexpected appear- 
ance of the deceitful Martin Brook, from 
whose angry mouth gushed forth torrents of 
water, which filled whole houses. You may 
guess the surprise I was thrown into by this 
deluge, when I found our shop transformed 
into a lake, in the middle of which was the 
master in a boat, fishing out isinglass, tea, 
and coffee. Upon my asking for sugar, they 
answered me, there were no remains of it to be 
found. So completely did Martin Brook de- 



235 

feat us, that every thing was destroyed in 
the shop ; and we remained in sorrow. I 
was obliged to be a partner in the business, 
and lost jubilee. But the sensations of hun- 
ger prevailing over those of fear, I requested 
some milk and bread, which was contrived to 
be tyed upon a long stick, and conveyed in 
a boat to the window, by the street. By this 
means, I obtained a humble breakfast, for 
which I was very thankful to the donor. 
After such a victory over the town of Der- 
by, obtained by Martin Brook, we must ad- 
mire his spirit ; but, at the same time, lament 
his ambition in passing over his limits. I 
was a witness, from my own window, of the 
great number of precious things which he 
swept off in his retreat, and of the piteous 
lamentations of the inhabitants ; and, as I 
found that it would not repay my time to 
remain in this distressed place, I determined 
not to wait for a second visit of Martin 
Brook. 



230 

I now undertook a journey to Ireland, 
flying like a bird that looks where he can 
build his nest ; and, passing through Che- 
shire to Lancashire, I reached Liverpool, 
where I made a bargain with the Captain of 
a ship, and next day sailed for Dublin. But, 
to avoid a traveller's story, which often sup- 
plies the want of truth, I shall merely relate 
this simple fact. The Captain, having rather 
an unpleasant enemy in a contrary wind, and 
March assisting with his waves, prevented 
our speedy landing. I saw, with a transport 
of joy, the village called Black Rock, at a 
little distance from Dublin. But here is a 
most dreadful bar, over which we were ob- 
liged to pass : we beheld a vessel, that went 
before us, dashed on that rock, and a woman 
on the deck, with an infant in her arms, cry- 
ing to the Lord for mercy. Her voice was 
heard: our Captain resisted the greatest fury 
of the sea, approached the vessel, and saved 
her and the rest of the people j but the vessel 



237 

sunk to the bottom, and we, in our ship, re- 
mained merely in a state of hope, which I 
called a poor chance. 

After this scene of melancholy was over, 
and we were approaching the harbour, the 
Captain, good soul, asked us if we were all 
well, and recovered from our fear. " Fear !" 
said I, " how could you think we could be af- 
fected with fear, when our minds were occu- 
pied with your good action ?" He appear- 
ed to understand my bad English ; for what 
I said seemed to make some impression upon 
him, as he expressed, with the greatest zeal, 
his wish to serve me upon any occasion what- 
ever, and shewed himself worthy the name 
of a true Englishman, by the proof he gave 
me of the sincerity of his professions. At our 
landing, he conducted me to the Royal Ma- 
rine Hotel, and strictly charged the land- 
lord to pay every attention to my person. 
The day following, he engaged handsome 
lodgings near the College Green, and settled 
ii h 



238 

every thing, for fear the people should im- 
pose on me ; and took me there in such a 
cheerful manner, as announced the liberal 
sentiments of his mind. This proceeding 
reminded me of his humane action above- 
mentioned ; which, no doubt, was heroic in its 
way, and convinced me, that he deserved to 
be considered on an equality with those great 
warriors, who, as soon as they have humbled 
their enemies, become fathers to their people. 
In short, Captain Fair wood, after having set- 
tled my little affairs, bade me farewell, and so 
disappeared. 

Now, that I was left to my solitary re- 
flections on the pilgrimage in which I was 
engaged, so severely did I feel the disap- 
pointments I had experienced, that I could 
not help thinking, it was well that Providence 
had blessed me with such a firm determina- 
tion to act like an upright man ; as the world, 
by the small estimation in which honesty is 
often held, afforded so strong an inducement 



239 

to travellers, like myself, to better their cir- 
cumstances, by acting like a knave. In the 
midst of these conflicting thoughts and 
mournful reflections, a black cat made his 
appearance, by entering my room. This in- 
terruption to my reverie, gave me a new 
turn of thinking. I could not help admiring 
the confidence of this creature, in putting his 
trust in me. I next thought, it must be the 
principle of his practice to pursue good living, 
having no other ambition in his nature. 
On this account, I had no objection to ap- 
point him Cure of my parish, and by so 
doing, he became my constant visitor. About 
this time, a lady of rank honoured me with a 
visit, who immediately perceived the black 
cat sitting on the sofa. She strongly expres- 
sed her admiration of his natural beauty ; 
and, touching him with a hand as white as 
snow, made him proudly stretch himself with 
joy. In this position, he appeared two feet 
long, and proportionably fat, as he enjoyed 



240 

good living : in fact, she was delighted with 
him beyond measure, and promised to pro- 
cure me a number of customers to see him. 
She kept her word, and in a few days I found 
my room rather too small, to contain so nu- 
merous a company. 

Amongst this crowd of amateurs, I met 
with a gentleman, who was closely inquisitive 
about the place of his birth ; and, although I 
possessed no information on this point, I yet 
conferred on him the honour of being a na- 
tive of Prussia, born at Berlin, and son of 
the favourite cat of Frederick the Great. I 
found this rod and artificial fly catch fish 
from the deepest rivers : his reputation soon 
spread, he derived an additional lustre from 
his noble origin, and rapidly became a fa- 
vourite of the whole town. 

This favourable circumstance suggested to 
me a new project, and I wished to seize the 
moment of this enthusiasm and rapture of 
the public, and give him some lessons in 



241 

tricks ; for, said I, when ] consider the na- 
tural sharpness of such animals, and their 
docility when young, I may expect that, with 
such advantages, he will become as cele- 
brated as the learned pig, so much admired 
in England. But, however well digested 
this plan might be, I could not arrive at such 
a degree of perfection in it, as to procure 
any amelioration of my situation ; for my 
pupil was found to be of a voracious disposi- 
tion, which these animals have not the saga- 
city to perceive, must, one day or other, bring 
their lives to a tragic conclusion. With a 
treacherous and ambitious design of improv- 
ing his manner of living, he slyly insinuated 
himself into the room where some canary 
birds were kept, and committed murder, 
with such a cruel mind and premeditated 
barbarity, that it was almost impossible to 
find any remains of them. The cat, being 
found guilty of this heinous crime, without 
respect to the merciful principles of whole- 



242 

some law, had sentence passed on him, by 
his own master, to be hanged ; and which, 
without delay, was put in execution. 

After this unexpected event, it was not of 
any use for me to remain longer where I 
was. I, therefore, took my route through the 
whole of Ireland, beginning with Cork, which 
is reckoned the second city in that kingdom, 
for its splendour, opulence, and trade. Small 
vessels only can approach the city, which 
stands seven miles up the river Lee. Ac- 
cording to my recollection, this is the chief 
port of merchants in Ireland ; and, in truth, 
there is more beef, tallow, and butter, ship- 
ped from hence, than from all the other ports 
of the kingdom put together. 

On my arrival, I found lodgings, most ad- 
vantageously situated for my purpose, upon 
the parade, which is a public walk, where 
are to be seen thousands of the most beauti- 
ful women ; a number of whom inspire re- 
spect and love, equal to that with which 



243 

Diotime, who taught Socrates the principles 
of nature, inspired that philosopher. What- 
ever may be said, this is indisputably true. 
Their appearance in society forms a sort of 
heaven on earth. By them I was first noticed ; 
and their example and kindness to me, were 
followed by the noble spirit of the citizens, 
who shewed their liberal mind and concern 
for my welfare. Among other instances of 
their bounty, the gentlemen, who were ama- 
teurs in music, graciously offered their assis- 
tance at my concert ; and, to prove the ex- 
tent of their good dispositions, performed 
themselves on that night. This act of gene- 
rosity, which I did not expect, rendered my 
benefit brilliant and numerous. Amongst the 
company was observed a lady, that excited 
the curiosity of the public to know who she 
was, by the elegance of her dress, and the 
sweetness of her conversation, together with 
the quickness of her repartee ; but, unsuc- 
cessful in their attempt at a discovery, they 



244 

were obliged to remain satisfied with obscure 
conjectures, and the late hour of the night 
forced them to depart. 

This lady, of whom I speak, bade me fare- 
well, with a promise to send me a marrow 
bone. I confess, I understood English imper- 
fectly at that time, and, therefore, I thought 
she said Mirabeau, not the celebrated* one 
who died during my residence at Paris, but 
his brother ; consequently I gave orders to 
my servant, should he call, not to admit him. 
At dinner-time, I heard a loud rap at the 
hall door, and was eagerly anxious to know 
who it was ; expecting Mirabeau's visit. I 
opened the door, leading to the staircase, 
from whence I heard mentioned the name of 
marrow bone ; and, still listening, I heard my 
servant coming up with another person ; in 
consequence of which, I slipt off to my room, 
cursing his imprudence, for not obeying the 
orders of his master. I crept to the closet, 
peeping through the key-hole, and perceiv- 



245 

ing a soup dish upon the table, and the 
master of the house laughing, probably at 
my misunderstanding, I came out of my 
hiding-place. On my appearance, he could 
not keep his countenance, but said, " There 
is your Frenchman put into a soup dish." 
" What is it ?" I asked." ". They are bones 
with marrow in them," he replied. " Who is 
the lady that sent them, and what is her name?" 
" Mrs. MXLennel," he answered, " and she 
is a butcher's wife." Finding my mistake 
cleared up with a good dinner, " Sit down," 
said I, " and take some marrow-bone with 
me ;" but he politely refused, telling me, he 
was obliged to go immediately with a wig, 
and dress a lady for a masked ball. When I 
considered his occupation, in a moment it 
came into my mind, that this man will no 
doubt discharge the duties of his profession 
as a hairdresser j he will inform his customers 
what has passed in his house, and I musj: 
expect some fun at my expence. So it hap- 
i i 



246 

pened ; for the next day the Worshipful the 
Mayor sent me a polite invitation to dinner. 
In his card, he gave a witty turn to the inci- 
dent of the marrow-bone. This circumstance 
amused the public ; and they carried on the 
joke in a very agreeable manner, probably 
with a view to afford me a good table : so 
that marrow-bone became my constant food 5 
and, if I had continued amongst those liberal 
and generous people, I should not have been 
surprised, if I had become as fat as marrow. 
But I was reluctantly obliged to change my 
place, in compliance with the circumstances 
of my situation ; so I made an excursion to 
Kinsale, a place beautifully situated at the 
mouth of the river Bandon, strongly fortified, 
the town neat and handsomely built, well 
supplied with provisions, but rather inferior 
to Cork in point of marrow-bones. I had the 
honour to be introduced to Lord and Lady 
Kinsale, whose influence procured me a nu- 
merous and select party of their friends to 



247 

my concert, which terminated with a most 
brilliant ball. 

After a long stay in this opulent city, the 
inhabitants of which I found amiable and 
polite, I set out for Youghall, where I met 
with a friendly and warm reception from the 
inhabitants. I had an overflowing concert of 
the best society, and their attention to me I 
must ever remember with gratitude. But an 
unexpected business called me to Cork ; and, 
luckily for me, it was not more than twenty 
miles distant for me to return. At this time, 
Captain Somerville of the Navy, intending to 
sail, kindly proposed to me to take a voyage 
with him, saying, " There is no difference 
whether you go by sea or by land, as we shall 
reach Cork by dinner-time. So I accepted 
his polite offer, and we sailed ; but we had 
no sooner quitted the harbour, than we per- 
ceived a grumbling sea, and lowering sky, 
announcing a dirge to be sung with a chorus. 
For my part, I had often met with those 



248 

rough receptions, and did not think any thing 
of it ; but I really felt for the situation of the 
ladies, who are sent to us as a blessing, and I 
was uneasy on their account. 

After all the painful reflections that tor- 
mented my mind, considering that the great- 
est Monarch, had he been on board, would 
have been treated with the same contempt, 
I determined to retire to my bed, where I 
thought to be alone ; but the Captain had 
taken the greatest part of it to himself, and 
left only a small share to me. However, I 
settled myself as well as I could, being ob- 
liged to keep him behind me. But, to my 
still greater discomfort, we were both of us 
soon driven from our quarters ; for the fury 
of the angry sea besieged us with its highest 
waves, and gave such a blow to the vessel, 
that the Captain, tumbling me out of bed 
on the floor, fell upon me ; so that I should 
certainly have been smothered, had not ano- 
ther no less violent motion of the vessel de- 



249 

livered me from him. I now thought myself 
secure from any accident, not perceiving I 
was so near the ladies ; but the vessel at that 
moment gave such a jump, that the Captain, 
who had just risen, was thrown down a second 
time, and in his fall knocked down some of the 
ladies that were next him ; one of whom tumb- 
ling upon me, gave me, with her big nose, a 
monstrous black eye. I must confess, I did not 
expect such a donation, which I was obliged to 
keep for some time, having no chance of be- 
ing soon at Cork, to procure a plaster for it. 

We now found ourselves on the coast of 
Giant's Causeway, and afterwards at the Mull 
of Cantyre in Scotland, where the wind chang- 
ed, and drove us to Port Patrick. Meantime, 
our joy was restored, by the expectation of 
seeing Cork ; and, in the interval of a calm, I 
proposed to give a feast to my fellow-travel- 
lers, by preparing them coffee. As soon as it 
was ready, we sat down round the table, in 
great spirits, singing " Rule Britannia." I 



250 

asked, who that lady " Britannia" was ? The 
Captain replied, " She is the favourite of the 
whole nation ;?* and the lady next me ob- 
served, " This great lady is fond of a little 
flattery like ourselves." During the time of 
my inquiry, and while our cups were filled 
with coffee, Neptune, envious of our joy* be- 
gan groaning j and the insolent waves gave 
answer to our song, forcing the vessel to 
bow down in a most humiliating manner, 
and throwing us to the ground, with the 
table and its contents upon our heads. To 
close this wonderful voyage of twelve days, 
I must be allowed to declare, that it was chief- 
ly owing to the imprudence of the Captain, 
who had it in his power to land safe at Do- 
naghadee, a short distance from Port Patrick ; 
but, boldly venturing to go to Cork, he ex- 
posed his life, with that of many of his friends. 
Fortunately, however, the wind conducted 
us close to Waterford, and, with the help of 
ropes tied to boats, we were brought safe into 



251 

port. I shall only observe, with regard to 
this distress, that any man, however great his 
courage may be, would, when in the midst of 
danger, ardently wish to be out of it ; and 
probably would have no hesitation in de- 
claring his wishes, did not his lofty mind 
direct him to conceal that fear, which the 
natural love of life so powerfully excites. 

I was not sorry to set my feet upon the 
ground ; and, leaving the Captain in his 
swimming coach, I took a more solid one, 
and arrived safe at Cork, where they all 
thought I was drowned. However, the peo- 
ple no sooner perceived me coming to the 
town, than their hearts overflowed with joy : 
they surrounded the coach, not with mere 
curiosity, as I saw by their countenance, but 
with the rapture of real friendship, and with 
the greatest care brought me to the hotel* 
Indeed, I put my trust in them, as in their 
principles I found they truly deserved the 
name of good Irish. 



CHAP. X. 

Visit to the lake of Killarney — Kind reception at 
Limerick — Friendly conduct of the Quakers at 
Clonmell — Methodist Preacher deserted by his flock 
■ — Journey to Tuam and Galway ; lucrative benefits 
at these places — -Successful expedient to settle a dis- 
pute with a landlord^ or " A new way to pay old 
debts" — Journey to Sligo — Doctrine of Rousseau — 
Sudden transition from the meanest to the most com- 
fortable and splendid accommodations ; and kind 
liberality of an amiable family. 

After settling my affairs at Cork, as I had 
an opportunity to visit the lake of Killarney, 
I set out immediately. In fact, I was not 
disappointed, for I saw more than I expect- 
ed. This lake is entirely surrounded with 
mountains, rocks, and precipices, which are 
covered with wood. There is on the top, 



253 

enclosed by mountains, a small lake, called 
the Devil's Punch Bowl ; the superfluous 
water of which, falling through a chasm into 
the middle of the lake, forms one of the most 
beautiful cascades: the echo of which, a- 
mongst the hills, is equally wonderful. This 
lake, or rather phenomenon of nature, really 
deserves to be seen. I found there a great num- 
ber of every description of people ; amongst 
many others, was a gentleman, who politely 
approached me, and offered me his hand, for 
fear any accident should befal me. When 
we were going away, a lady, with a loud 
voice, said, " Take care, that that little gen- 
tleman does not fall.'* I turned round, and 
seeing a beautiful and lovely nymph, replied, 
" Madam, I fall already." This answer pro- 
cured me the friendship of both : they were 
much delighted, and I found afterwards that 
the lady was his wife. He instantly called 
her, and they both proposed to me to visit 
Limerick, with a promise to procure me a 

Kk 



25$ 

good concert. Her eloquent speech, joined 
with a graceful and persuasive manner, and 
his Irish promise, which was more to be de- 
pended upon than that of many countries 
that would confirm it with an oath, prevailed 
with me. I made no resistance j but soon 
accepted their warm invitation, with a pro- 
mise to be there on the day appointed. 

Before I drove into the town, this amiable 
couple met me, and conducted me to a lodg- 
ing, and would not allow me that day to take 
my dinner at home, but insisted on my going 
to dine with them. I considered it would be 
improper to refuse their kind invitation, and 
therefore complied with their request. I spent 
a most agreeable day, being introduced to 
many of their friends. I was surprised to see 
so large a party ; but soon found the reason 
of it, which was, by an ingenious contrivance, 
to procure me a numerous concert. By this 
means, my benefit succeeded wonderfully ; for 
there was such a crowded room, that many 



255 

were obliged to return home ; and, to 
prove the great influence of Mr. and Mrs. 
Brown, all those persons the next day sent 
their ticket-money, with interest. So that, 
not only the handsome figure of Mrs. Brown, 
but also the beauty of her mind, must be ad- 
mired. I take this opportunity, with sincere 
emotions of gratitude, to return my humble 
thanks to the inhabitants of Limerick for the 
flattering attention they conferred upon me. 

But, notwithstanding the kind reception I 
experienced, I was obliged to quit their ami- 
able and interesting society, to go to Clon- 
mell, the chief town of the county of Tip- 
perary. I was mistaken in ranking Clonmell 
amongst the splendid towns in this kingdom^ 
for it appeared to me deficient in brilliant 
society. I found the people, by their pecu- 
liar mode of living, dwelling in a retreat, and 
as it were shut out from the. busy world. 
Yet I was not deprived of their society-: 
they were Quakers, to whom I was intro- 



256 

duced ; and I spent among them many a- 
agreeable moments. I was never acquainted 
with those people's principles, but learned, 
from their own account, that George Fox, 
who was born at Drayton in Leicestershire, 
was endowed with such an original fund of 
good sense, and such a flow of eloquence, that, 
by his abilities, he became the Patriarch of 
Quakerism, and dictator of their minds and 
consciences. But I shall not pursue my re- 
marks on their spiritual concerns, since their 
morals evidently appear humane, and salutary 
to the general interests of mankind. I found 
virtues in those quiet and sociable people, su- 
perior to those of any other religious sect ; 
and I have remarked, that you seldom find a 
Quaker committing a crime, the inhabitant 
of a gaol, or a beggar in the street, which 
is certainly a great deal to say in their fa- 
vour. Whatever, therefore, their gospel may 
preach, their actions must be an example. I 
confess, I took leave of them with regret ; so 



257 

much did I admire their retired manner of 
living. Therefore, they are never in want of 
society, and never looking out for new amuse- 
ments ; which idle minds seem continually 
hunting after, while, by so doing, they sow 
the seed of peevishness for old age. With 
regard to myself, they understood what sort 
of life I pursued, which was in the busy 
world, amidst a tumult of people, where 
every one is not master of his own ideas ; 
and which may be a good school to learn pa- 
tience in. In consequence of this, they pro- 
vided me letters of introduction to Ballinasloe, 
which I found of great service to me. Those 
to whom I delivered them, procured me a 
crowded and select concert, attended by a 
number of officers, who were quartered there 
during my stay. 

There was a great wool fair in this place — 
according to public report, the first in the 
kingdom ; which, from the description given 
of it to me, excited my curiosity to go to see 



258 

it. But a gentleman to whom I was recom- 
mended, and from- whom I received many 
kind attentions, opposed an obstacle to my 
intention, fearing such a number of people 
would be rather troublesome ; so he post- 
poned it till the next day, which was Sunday, 
saying, all people would be at prayers, and I 
could see the place at my leisure. Next 
morning, the gentleman, not forgetting his 
engagement, came and took breakfast with 
me, and when we were ready to set out, I 
heard a particular voice of a man in the 
street. I looked out at the window, and saw 
a crowd of people at my door, and, in the 
middle, a man with a book in his hand. At 
first, it appeared to me a comical business ; 
but, at last, I was astonished to see, that in 
a civilized country they should allow such 
cruelty, as to make game of a poor unfortu- 
nate creature, whom I took for a lunatic; 
and, if Mr. Crump had not acquainted me 
with the contrary, I should have remained in 



259 

the same idea. He told me the man was a 
Methodist ; and he spoke it in a sort of dis- 
content, as a reproach to the Church of Eng- 
land being defective in delivering the Gos- 
pel ; whence arise many errors, which furnish 
a variety of sects, called Dissenters. This 
was the information I received from Mr. 
Crump, who was not sparing in his objections 
to the National Church ; and he seemed to 
me, as one who had got the visionary com- 
plaint of Swedenborg, or his madness for 
the new Jerusalem. Consequently, I did not 
wait to hear the conclusion of his chapter, 
but departed from him, and took my station 
in the street, to listen to the Methodist 
preacher. But, as I happened to make my 
appearance when they were singing a hymn, 
I caused a discord in their tune, by giving a 
sudden turn to their inspiration. As soon 
as they observed me, they all crowded to the 
place where I was, and left their pastor, with 
his book in his hands, to conclude the duty 



26Q 

by himself. It was certainly a cruel circum- 
stance for a shepherd to be thus forsaken by 
his flock ; and the last effort he made to re- 
cover them, was to cry out, " Brethren, my 
dear brethren, return to your duty, and don't 
follow this little red devil" (it happened I 
was dressed that day in a red coat) ; but this 
effort of his anxious mind made no impression 
upon them, and, the more to show their inat- 
tention to his doctrine, they began to make 
such a noise, that it put the whole town in 
alarm ; and the garrison flew to arms, think- 
ing that the enemy was approaching. At 
this time, the whole nation, upon the politi- 
cal stage, was performing a tragic scene. In 
consequence of which, the Colonel ordered 
all the streets to be well guarded by the 
troops ; of which, one of horse found the 
preacher singing a hymn, No. 306, adapted to 
Handel's March. The Captain hearing this, 
and having no idea of a hymn, stopped him 
with a reprimand, thinking he was singing a 



261 

ballad ; and though he gave a very long ex- 
planation, the Captain would not understand 
his vindication, saying, he never heard of a 
hymn to the tune of a inarch. At last, he de- 
clared he was a Methodist preacher, and 
begged of him to allow him to wait for his 
congregation who had deserted him, and 
gone with the red devil. The Captain, find- 
ing out immediately that he alluded to mey 
asked where I was gone. " Gone !" said he, 
" I suppose to the devil !" " Then you must 
go there after nimj* 1 replied the Captain, 
" and you will be sure to find your people." 
During this altercation, they began to hear 
their voices so loud, that they could dis- 
tinguish where they were ; and when tranquil- 
lity was restored, the garrison returned to the' 
barracks : but the Captain, anxious to give 
me assistance, for fear any accident should 
happen to me, cariie with his dragoons, and 
escorted me home ; when I saw the coun- 
tenance of the preacher pictured with angers 
i, V 



262 

But, leaving no time for his inspiration ttf 
work, I set out for Tuam, where I found 
good sociable people ; by Whom I was well 
received, and who were ready to render me 
any service in their power. I took this op- 
portunity, and gave a concert, to defray the 
expences of my journey to Galway. I was 
not disappointed in the idea I had conceived 
of their generous dispositions y for their be- 
nevolence inducing them to give me every 
facility to pursue my travels, they afforded 
me a most lucrative benefit. Often have I 
gratified my feelings with a pleasing remem- 
brance of their kindness, which has left an 
indelible impression on my mind. After 
having experienced so much goodness, it was 
with sorrow I was obliged to leave them, and 
find my way to Galway. 

This city, as far as I can remember, is 
seated in a bay, and most commodiously 
situated for trade. There is a considerable 
herring fishery, and I understand it is the 



263 

only place that has any foreign trade. It is 
also prettily built, and has the appearance 
of a flourishing city. The citizens receive 
strangers with great civility, — not with insig- 
nificant politeness, similar to a sponge full of 
water, which when squeezed becomes dry ; 
but the essence of true hospitality dwells in 
their hearts, and never can be eradicated 
from them. At my introduction to their so- 
ciety, how kindly did they receive me ! Their 
attention was paid in a manner that makes 
a foreigner easy, and which attracts re- 
spect and love. They had the penetration to 
see I was not a hunter after fortune, but 
that the manner of life which accident had 
forced me to adopt, was repugnant to my 
feelings ; so they consulted among them- 
selves what was best to be done; but it was 
decreed above, that not any thing was to be 
settled at this time, but that a concert was 
as much as I could expect, which was nu- 
merously attended. This brilliant assembly 



put me in a cheerful situation, and I remain? 
eel here some weeks longer. In the course 
of the pleasant time I spent in this amiable 
society, I often met General Hutchinson, 
whom I found a most amiable man, and his 
conversation interesting and agreeable. How- 
ever, I should not dare to trust myself op- 
posite to him, to converse through a cannon, 
as I have heard he is rather a bold gentle- 
man upon such occasions, and gives no time 
for a reply. 

After many agreeable moments passed in 
this polite city, I proposed to pay a visit to 
Sligo -, for, not only business called me thither, 
but curiosity induced me lo see this corner of 
the Island, as it had the reputation of having 
savage inhabitants in it. I therefore made 
preparations for my departure. On the day 
appointed for my setting off, my servant 
Noad, as usual on such occasions, went to pay 
the landlord, Mr. M c Dule, two pounds, which 
was due that week for my lodgings, and Mr. 



M c Dule made no objection to accept it ; but, 
in his memorandum book, he pretended to 
shew I owed him the sum of sixteen pounds, 
and that he had only received one half; and, 
moreover, that he was ready to take his 
oath, I had agreed to give him four pounds 
per week. Noad firmly opposed him, and 
stood to the truth, saying, he was a witness 
that the agreement was made for only two 
pounds per week ; so a warm dispute arose 
between them, which forced me to go down 
stairs to see what was the matter. I found 
my Irish Paddy, Noad, like an honest ser- 
vant, eagerly interested in his master's busi- 
ness. Finding, however, that his good ar- 
guments did not avail, he thought a good 
blow on the head would be more comprehen, 
sible, and was accordingly preparing to in- 
flict it; but Mr. M c Dule, threatening he 
would make him pay fifty pounds if he did 
so, stopped the intrepidity of Noad, who 
then told him he would not touch a perjurer. 



266 

This gave great offence to Mr. M c Dule, who 
replied with fury, that there was never a 
Methodist known to be a perjurer. Noad 
wanting to argue on this subject, which in 
fact he did not understand, I put a stop to 
the dispute, by saying, "Let his faith alone." 
" No, no, master," he answered, " I only 
wanted to knock his head, not his face." 
This blundering reply made me laugh, and 
I told him to come along with me. When 
I was alone, I began to think, that such a 
man as M c Dule could have no principle 
of honour, by his wanting to impose on me 
in this way, and that, on such an occasion, 
it would be very allowable, by some strata- 
gem or other, to avoid injury er insult ; 
and, at the same time, if possible, to make 
game of him. Consequently, I formed a 
project that he might quarrel with my ser- 
vant, which was more proper than with my- 
self. I instructed Noad in what manner to 
proceed : I gave him orders to go from home, 



and not to appear till late at night, and at 
his return, to make a loud knocking at the 
door, pretending to be drunk, and when let 
in, to ask for a candle to go to bed, which I 
would contrive should be refused him ; he 
was then to say some unpleasant thing to the 
landlord, as I have experienced that those 
creatures who have not a spark of sense, are 
soon put in a passion with the least trifle, 
having no bridle to restrain their fury, which 
accordingly becomes their master. "It is two 
to one," said I, "he will give you a blow : and 
in that case you may cry out, " Murder," and 
say, you will make a complaint to the Mayor, 
and make him pay forty pounds for his impru- 
dence." So, after this lesson given to Noad, 
I sent him away ; and the evening approach- 
ing, I went down to prepare M c Dule to meet 
Noad, when I found him saying his prayers. 
" I beg pardon," said I to him, " if I intrude 
upon your devotions, the pleasures arising 
from which, are certainly greatly preferable to, 



268 

and much more sublime than, any other what- 
ever." " You are welcome, Sir," he replied, 
" I am meditating on the instruction contain- 
ed in this Holy Book, wherein we are taught 
to be careful of doing nothing wrong, if we 
wish to save our souls." " You are right. 
Sir," said I, " to meditate on so important a 
subject ; which, I trust, will so far influence 
your mind as to make you detest a bad ac- 
tion ; and therefore I conclude you will not 
take an oath concerning the money in dis- 
pute between us." But I found his prin- 
ciples as dry as a stick for the fire, and that 
he was still determined to take his oath be- 
fore the Mayor. I called for Noad, though I 
knew he was not there. Mr. M c Dule said, 
" Your witness will be of no use, and he is 
not at home." '* He is," said I, "probably 
gone out to drink : many times he has done 
me this mischief before I left town. At 
Tuam he came home drunk, got a candle, 
went to his room, and set fire to the curtains 



269 

of his bed ; and if the servant girl had not 
perceived it, the whole house would have 
been in a flame, and very probably the whole 
neighbourhood would have shared the same 
fate." " My dear Sir," replied he, " for your 
sake and my own, I will sit up for him, and 
will not allow him to take a candle." "I 
wish you would," said I, " and to prevent 
any mischief, open the door yourself and we 
will be safe." 

Having so well laid my plan for putting 
this cat into the sack, that I was confident 
of success, I, therefore, wished him good 
night, pretending to go to bed. About the 
time appointed, I heard a knocking at the 
door, which not only raised M c Dule, but the 
whole street. Mr. M c Dule opening the door, 
beheld Noad drunk, who desired a candle to 
go to bed. Mr. M c Dule, as was expected, 
refused to give him a candle. Noad finding 
an opportunity, seized the candlestick, and 
both holding it fast, one pulled against the 
m m 



270 

other. But Noad proving the strongest, 
brought him to my parlour, and there took 
possession of both candle and candlestick ; 
and, without any thought of malice (I pre- 
sume), told him he was a great Geographer. 
It must be remarked, that a person in a pas- 
sion, as nearly as possible resembles a mad 
man, and seldom takes time to consider what 
his adversary may say j therefore M c Dule, in 
a flame of passion, replied, "None of my 
family were Geographers, but all the M c Dules 
were honest people." Noad, perceiving his 
ignorance, began to repeat the same words, 
to induce him to strike. He was not disap- 
pointed in his views ; for M c Dule approach- 
ing with fury, gave him a blow. Noad, pre- 
tending to fall to the ground, cried out, 
" Murder," which raised all the people that 
lodged in the house, who came down to pre- 
vent mischief. They found him with his nose 
apparently bleeding, which in his fall under 
the table he had rubbed with some red stuff 



271 

having the appearance of blood. Every one 
was against M c Dule, saying, if they had not 
come, Noad would have been killed. Noad, 
from under the table returned them thank?, 
and begged them to be witnesses how he was 
bruised, as he intended to go to the Mayor, 
to get forty pounds to defray the doctor's 
expences ; and they all promised to support 
him upon this occasion. Mr. M c Dule, find- 
ing himself in an awkward situation, be- 
came a little milder ; and, his insolence be- 
ginning to abate, he slowly rapped at my 
bed-room door. Pretending to be suddenly 
awaked, I asked, who was there. He said, 
" I am a friend come to beg a favour." I 
opened the door and asked, in what respect 
I could be useful to him. " I beg of you, 5 ' 
he said, " to set out before sun-rise, to pre- 
vent your servant going to the Mayor, as I 
have bruised his nose by accident ; therefore, 
allow me, Sir, to order the chaise at four 
o'clock in the morning." " Then," said I ? 



272 

" do you give up your claim to the sum you 
demanded of me ?" " My dear Sir," he re- 
plied, " there has been some, error about the 
money ; indeed, you do not owe me any 
thing." " Well, well," said I, " I forgive a 
fault when it is involuntary ; I only request 
you to give me a receipt in full for the sum 
I have paid, as I do not owe you any thing, 
and I consent to set out at any time to oblige 
you, as all my things are ready." In short, 
M c Dule went to order the chaise, Noad 
having only time to wash his face, and apo- 
logize to M c Dule for the deception he had 
put upon him, at his altered appearance. 
M c Dule found himself rather stupified, and 
was persuaded Noad had taken a lesson from 
the stage at Drury-Lane, in London. 

After this manner of contriving to save my 
money, I set out for Sligo ; but the journey 
was tedious and uncomfortable, it being win- 
ter. I recollect, the second night the driver 
could not find the road, for the darkness of 



273 

the sky, and deepness of the snow ; and mis- 
sing his way, we were obliged to stop at an 
obscure village, where the people have the 
reputation of being savage. We drove to a 
cabin, and called a man. When he appeared, 
I asked him, if it was convenient for him to 
receive us. "Yes/' said he, " with pleasure, 
but I have no bed, or other place than where 
I sleep myself, and if you will accept clean 
straw to lie upon, you are welcome." The 
darkness of the night, and storminess of the 
weather, induced me to accept his rustic, 
but hearty invitation, and completely recon- 
ciled me to his straw 7 bed. In his cabin, I 
found a dozen such creatures, left to the 
care of nature, who had taught them to pay 
every attention, unaccompanied by any empty 
forms, to their guests, each being employed 
in giving new proofs of service, and of zealous 
benevolence ; not having borrowed their prin- 
ciples from schools, and much less from Uni- 
versities, where we learn to disguise our pas- 



«74 

sions and the weakness of our mind, which, 
notwithstanding all our care, may yet be dis- 
covered. But this good innocent people de- 
serve to be admired for their humane disposi- 
tions, said I to myself; — this rude state of so- 
ciety, which I now behold, proves to me how 
little advantage those gain, who wish to be 
above simple nature. I found in the breast of 
those people the true repository of happiness ; 
ndeed, their minds were perfectly content, 
thinking their cabin as comfortable as the 
first lord's palace, without any hazard of their 
being victims of slavish ambition, which often 
produces the worst consequences. 

Whilst, with these interesting thoughts in 
my mind, I was examining their cheerful 
countenances, I was interrupted by an unex- 
pected message from a gentleman, inviting 
me to take a bed at his house, and announ- 
cing that supper was waiting for me, and 
his coach ready at the door of the cabin. 
To be thus transported from straw, as it 



ri5 

were by some fairy trick, to a feather bed, pro- 
duced a sudden change in my situation, and 
perhaps in my sentiments too. I took my 
leave of these worthy people, and proceeded 
to an enchanting house, the entrance to which 
was through a park, planted with trees on each 
side, and between rivulets, with an artificial 
water-fall, ornamented with bright lamps. 
In front of this beautiful mansion was a lake, 
upon which the light from the windows was 
reflected, and gave it the appearance of the 
enchanted temple of Apollo, in which Pagans 
performed the absurd ceremonies of their 
religion. In short, on my arrival at this de- 
lightful house, the charms of which were 
heightened by the graciousness and affability 
with which I was received, I thought myself 
in Paradise. 

At supper we enjoyed a very pleasant con- 
versation ; the whole family appeared to me 
entirely free from reserve. My straw bed af- 
forded them good materials for a joke, which 



276 

the young lady introduced, by declaring she 
was the author of my feather bed, for which 
she expected a reward, and begged me to 
give her a tune upon the guitar, knowing I 
performed on that instrument. It would 
have been a crime to refuse so obliging an 
invitation : I gave orders to bring it, and in 
the interval she got up and began to play on 
the piano-forte. Her taste and execution 
astonished me, and I found her a proficient, 
both in music and in painting. She admired 
my instrument, and was so much pleased 
with my music, that she requested me to set 
it for the piano-forte. This nattering de- 
mand I promised to comply with, and to 
send the music from Sligo, the distance not 
being great. 

After this conversation, and after spending 
a very pleasant evening, I was conducted to 
my bed-room, which, I must observe, was fitted 
up for a king, rather than for such a humble 
traveller as myself. I was treated in every 



277 

respect with the greatest hospitality and po- 
liteness. On the following morning I took 
leave of this amiable family, who loaded me 
with their kind attentions. 



n n 



CHAP. XL 

Return to Sligo ; relieved from the annoyance of vul- 
gar curiosity by the opportune frolic of a run-away 
pig — Loss and recovery of Miss Jansorfs ass, the 
advertising of which aided my concert — Arrival at 
Londonderry, and description of that city ,- Count 
de Tantene and his book — Visit to Belfast ; kind- 
ness of Generals Drummond and Seddon — ^Arrival 
at Portarlington ; advantages of equanimity and 
cheerfulness of disposition — Black powder and fast- 
ing a sovereign remedy for lowness of spirits and 
loss of appetite, exemplified in the case of a lady- 
Arrival at Armagh ; introductio?i to General and 
Mrs Nugent ; lucrative benefit. 

In my journey back to Sligo, I did not 
meet with any thing but bad roads ; and it 
was with great difficulty I got on, for the 
horses, striking their feet into the ice to keep 
themselves from falling, could not draw them 



279 

out again ; therefore, to prevent any accident 
happening to me, I was resolved to walk as 
well as I could ; but in the newly-fallen snow 
I found it a work of great labour for my 
feet. 

During this violent exercise, I perceived 
at some distance a man riding upon an ass, 
who seemed to have no less trouble in his 
travelling than myself j but the ass getting 
better over the ground than the horses with 
the chaise after them, he soon reached me, 
and delivered me a letter from his mistress, 
Miss Janson, with a request to send her the 
music abovementioned. " This request has 
rather come at an unfortunate time," said I 
to the messenger, " return home and assure 
your mistress, on my arrival at Sligo, it will 
be my first care to send it to her." But he 
replied, he had orders not to return without 
the music, and if I would allow him he would 
accompany me to the town, which was not 
far off j consequently he went before my 



chaise till we arrived at the place, where 
people began gathering more and more ; 
and when we appeared in the Market- Place, 
I remember there was a great pig fair. On 
this occasion, many idle people joined those 
who followed me, and made an immense 
crowd and disorder in the fair, which set at 
defiance all the authority of the Mayor. In 
this confusion, the pigs contrived to deliver 
themselves from their confinement, and, 
breaking from their prison, ran about in se- 
veral directions. The master of one of those 
rebels attempted to catch him, being afraid 
to lose his property ; when the terrified ani- 
mal, in the hurry of his flight, happening to 
encounter a woman selling eggs in a basket, 
ran between her legs, and carried her to the 
Mayor, at whose feet she fell down and broke 
her basket of eggs. This new object amused 
the eyes of the tumultuous spectators, and 
they soon disappeared from me. This was 
the very thing I wanted, in order to give 



281 

me an opportunity of driving to my lodgings, 
which were ready prepared for my reception. 
I no sooner got out of the chaise than I found 
some officers in my room, with whom I was 
acquainted. They had learnt the day of my 
arrival, and wanted me to dine with them j 
to which proposal I made no objection, but 
went immediately. 

But to return to the man and his ass : — 
He called upon me the next day, when I 
confessed I had not yet done any thing con- 
cerning the music, but promised, the day 
after he should be dispatched with it. So, 
to fulfil my word, on the following morning 
I got the music ready and delivered it to 
him ; when he announced to me an accident 
he had met with, namely* that he had lost 
Miss Janson's ass. He told me, he had made 
every enquiry after her, but in vain ; and, 
therefore, he begged me to put her in the 
newspapers, with a particular account of her 
natural beauties, which he gave me. So I 



282 

sent to the paper the advertisement, with 
the description, which Was a true one, for 
she was very handsome ; and I was fortunate 
enough to succeed in restoring her to the man, 
and without delay sent him home. Now, in 
speaking of the success which attended my 
splendid concert, I must attribute it greatly 
to the account in the papers of this elegant 
ass, which I mast declare was not my own 
doing, but which gave rise to so much lively 
conversation and inquiry on the subject, that 
the inhabitants wanted to be particularly 
acquainted with me, and gave me a general 
invitation to their houses, where I spent a 
pleasant time in their society. They sent me 
with a heavy purse to Londonderry, which 
city lies in a pleasant situation near the head 
of Lough Foyle : it has a very good port, 
into which ships of any size have a commo- 
dious access, and consequently a consider- 
able trade. According to the historical ac- 
count of it, it is well fortified ; but to my 



283 

recollection, only strong enough for those 
ancient warriors, who were not acquainted 
with the use of gunpowder : the city is well 
built, and the inhabitants, I can justly say, 
good Irish people. The gentlemen from 
their country seats joined with those of the 
city, who formed a great and respectable 
body in my concert room, and procured me 
a most fertile harvest for the winter season. 

During the time of my stay in this city, 
arrived a gentleman on his way from Scot- 
land, who called himself Count de la Tan- 
tene ; but his income appeared to me to be 
left behind, to support in France the title of 
his family, which I have no doubt is great. 
But, to maintain his situation, he brought 
with him a good portion of industry, and a 
small one of ingenuity, by the help of which 
he got introduced into the first company, 
where he so far succeeded as to enjoy in 
profusion every luxury of an epicurean life, 
with the benefit of a liberal subscription, for 



284 

publishing his remarks on his journey through 
Ireland and Scotland : therefore, it was ex- 
pected this work would have been true, and 
favourable in its description to both nations. 
But the report I had of it from Mr. Maghee, 
was, that all the subscribers were so dis- 
pleased with his book, that they put it into 
the flames, and made it vanish in smoke, 
finding it indigestible, and his account un- 
true. " Stop, Sir," said I to him, " and do 
not condemn the author ; perhaps he means 
to write his confession, and declare his in- 
famy in a manner similar to that of J. J. 
Rousseau." " Oh !" said he to me, " we 
may wait a long time, for you may be sure 
his materials are not yet ready for the press." 
*' Then," I replied, ** it will be too long for 
me to remain to read this new author's con- 
fession ; for I have heard, a long time, that 
Belfast is the most considerable town of this 
part of the kingdom for its trade, and number 
of inhabitants, and I apprehend it will be 



285 

commodious for carrying on my own affairs j" 
so I bid him adieu, and set out. 

On my arrival at Belfast, I soon found a 
good reception. I had the honour of meeting 
with General Drummond and General Sed- 
don, who were both engaged with the trust 
of the national security. It has always been 
remarked of great men, that they never re- 
ject any thing proposed to them, as beneath 
their notice, where they perceive the motives 
to be good. On the contrary, they take the 
opportunity to show their elevated minds in 
the least, as well as in the greatest things. 

On my arrival, General Seddon, no doubt, 
heard I was a man that had to make my way 
round the world, to support my existence, 
and study the human mind ; therefore, he 
honoured me with his visits, and I was glad 
to discover that he was active in many 
good things ; for there is a pleasure in 
knowing each man's particular virtues, with 
whom we have to converse. While he was 
o o 



286 

examining me, I admired the prudence of 
his questions. General Drummond soon 
joined his friend Seddon with his patronage, 
and they gave so powerful a support to my 
concert, that it would be ungrateful in me to 
omit mentioning their generosity. In the 
midst of settling public affairs, these great 
Generals found a moment to attend to mine ; 
by which they indulged their noble dispo- 
sitions, and called to my mind the story of 
Antisthenes. This Philosopher was, one day, 
bringing home, in his hand, fish from the 
market, at which many expressed their sur- 
prise. "It is for myself I carry this fish," 
said he, " but when I am calculating a quan- 
tity of stones or mortar, it is for my country." 
So General Drummond contributed to the 
welfare of his country, and was, at the same 
time, the bestower of happiness on many in- 
dividuals who were honoured with his kind- 
ness. 
I afforded a very favorable specimen of the 



287 

effects arising from the patronage of General 
Drummond and General Seddon ; for I be- 
came like a lady of fashion, on whom all eyes 
are turned, for the surprising taste of her 
dress. My fame spread so widely, from the 
kindness of their patronage, that it reached 
to some prisoners of a particular description, 
from whom I received an invitation to dine. 
I did not reject their civil attention, but only 
made a polite retreat, and gave my answer 
in the following manner : I told them that, 
in consulting my wishes, my inclination 
directed me to accept the kind offer of their 
pleasant society ; but there was one obstacle 
which presented itself, and I was with sor- 
row obliged to postpone .my visit till I 
procured the consent of General Drum- 
mond, which I would endeavour, as far as 
was in my power, to obtain. This answer- 
ed quite d propos ; for, the very same day, 
the General sent me a card to dine with him 
that day, when I was glad to have the oppor- 



288 

tunity of showing the unfortunate people's 
note. The General read it, smiling at their 
request, and, as soon as he had finished, asked 
me, if I had been instructed in my youth in 
political or ministerial affairs. This sudden 
demand made me immediately conjecture 
that, perhaps, those people were prisoners of 
state. " No," said I, " General, my master 
instructed me in what belonged to my com- 
fort in life — in the principles and practice of 
virtue, whence follows quietness of mind ; and 
in aiming at being a good man : which is as 
simple an education as I could receive from 
a school." This reply pleased the General, 
and he desired me to dine with them, with 
an order to the Governor of the place to 
show me every civility. The next day, when 
I appeared, the prisoners were all well dis- 
posed to receive me heartily, and expressed 
their joy more than I could have expected, 
and forgot, for a while, that their liberty was 
lost. In this confusion, the sentinels left 



289 

their posts to see me, at which time one of 
the prisoners set himself at large, perhaps 
to save the trouble of being judged by a 
Court Martial. This accident produced 
some kind of alarm, which could not fail to 
be reported to the General ; so the officer 
with fear was obliged to declare what had 
happened. The General, with his usual good 
nature, said, " Have you seen my little friend 
lately, because I heard the man who had fled 
had put him in his pocket ; if he has not, you 
know, my brother soldier, we are allowed to 
conquer, but not to be cruel, so let him go 
home to his children, and he will stop their 
crying." Such an unexpected answer asto- 
nished the officer, who was equally struck with 
the greatness of his mind. I never made the 
discovery of the cause for which these peo- 
ple were imprisoned, nor can it be of material 
consequence to the reader. 

I left Belfast, and passed quick as a sha- 
dow through Monaghan, Cavan, Mullingar, 



290 

and Killbeggan, and stopped at Portarlington, 
where I found most of the inhabitants speak- 
ing a foreign language ; and, what is more 
surprising, they had the manners and cus- 
toms of Continental people. But I was soon 
informed by some of them, that they were 
French Hugonots ; a set of people remarkable 
for their opinions, who made in France so 
great a change by their contests with a rival 
party, and who were at last compelled to take 
their departure from the kingdom. After 
their fall, having no prospect of any change 
in their favour, they all preferred to settle 
under the protection of liberal nations, who 
agree with their own sentiments in the mo- 
dern doctrine of faith. Therefore, some of 
those good families took refuge in Ireland ; 
and, to be useful to the kingdom, established 
a French academy, conducted by worthy and 
respectable members amongst themselves ; 
which produced many learned pupils, and ren- 
dered great service to the nation. In short, I 



291 

thought myself in the middle of France, from 
their politeness and attention, which are qua- 
lities familiar to the French nation. 

Those refugees inherited from their fore- 
fathers great animation of soul, and quick in- 
tellectual powers;. They soon perceived the 
motive of my arrival in town, and gave a good 
help to my concert, which I found most 
lucrative from their patronage. The interest 
they were so kind as to take in my behalf, 
they declared, was owing to my cheerful dis- 
position, which induced them to serve me. 
'Tis true, it is unpleasant in society to meet 
with persons too reserved : it gives rise to 
many conjectures about them, and, after all, 
we find ourselves not at ease in their com- 
pany. My gaiety and good spirits are fortu- 
nately always equal. I sometimes happen to 
meet with disappointments, which I take as 
a storm, and console myself with thinking 
that next day I shall have tine weather : 
therefore, it is not of any use to alarm my 



292 

mind, since adversity must have an end as 
well as prosperity. I am perfectly astonished 
when I behold persons, whose situation would 
make life delightful, plunged into the deepest 
distress, because they want to stretch out 
their arms more than their coat will allow 
them, and, through false pride and a discon- 
tented mind, take a pleasure in tormenting 
themselves. My landlady at Portarlington 
will furnish an example : — She enjoyed three 
hundred pounds a year, after the death of her 
husband ; the rest of his effects her son took 

illtO his possession, but gave a most elegantly 

furnished house to his mother, where I lodg- 
ed. This lady one morning graciously paid 
me a visit, when, indeed, I was not ready to 
receive her, having my night-cap on. The 
dishabille in which she found me, contrary 
to my wish, did not make her retire. She sat 
down : " Take your breakfast, Sir," she said 
to me, " I come to consult you on a very 
interesting affair." " What business could 
bring you to take counsel from me?" I 



293 

answered. Upon this, she explained to me 
the cause of her solicitude, and said: " Since 
my husband's death, I have been reduced to 
three hundred pounds a year, upon which it 
is impossible for me to live now, having been 
used to so much more, and this puts me into 
a miserable state of low spirits, and loss of 
appetite." I began to talk to her very grave- 
ly upon this comical illness ; observing how 
many accidents happen from want, and mixing 
a little moral sentiment in my discourse, to 
prevent her perceiving I made game of her. 
" I cannot think," said I, " there is any great 
danger in your complaint, and I flatter my- 
self I can restore your good spirits." " Oh !" 
she replied, " I will look upon such a cure as 
a miracle ! I have applied to doctors, and not 
one could succeed, but your own gaiety con- 
vinces me that you are in possession of some 
mysterious secret, which you employ to have 
such wonderful spirits." " Yes, Madam," I 
replied, " I will not deny I take some black 

p P 



294 

powders, given to me by a great philoso- 
pher." She answered, " Blessed be his 
name ! I have been right when I thought you 
had some help for you 1 uncommon cheer- 
fulness, and I desire and beg of you to have 
mercy on my afflicted mind, and give me this 
powder." I was now sufficiently acquainted 
with her whimsical illness ; therefore I said to 
her, by way of a joke, " Go to your taber- 
nacle (for she was a strong Methodist), and 
give thanks for having discovered a secret 
for the cure of low spirits •" adding, that 
when she returned I would give her a black 
powder. She went, in fact, to her meeting- 
house, and Noad, having listened to our con- 
versation, and adopting the principle of So- 
crates, that God ought to be worshipped ac- 
cording to the law of the society in which 
we live, accompanied her ; he and she groan- 
ing and singing mournful hymns. 

But, now that I had seriously embarked in 
this arduous undertaking, I confess I began 



295 

tt> consult with myself, for some time, what to 
do ; and, at last, after ruminating a good 
while, I took some bread, which was left on 
my table, and immediately secured the door, 
to prevent any body troubling me in my la- 
borious work. I next put in order what was 
required for my chymical preparations, hav- 
ing tongs, fire, and shovel, upon which I put 
bread, and began a process, similar to that 
of making the tincture of antimony. First 
of all, the saline matter I found close to a 
very hot fire after the operation, in the form 
of a scoria, or combination of fixed salt, per- 
haps confounded with the crust, which part- 
ly calcined the bread by means of the acid 3 
and altogether formed a neutral salt, which 
gave me a beautiful shining black powder^ 
and I found it very good for my purpose 
When I employed it for her use, I pulverized 
it, in which state it bore the name of D rs% 
ma Metattorum : but, for want of a mortar, I 
was obliged to substitute my cup and ^aiicer, 



296 

with which I contrived to press it. It ail" 
swerta as wei* m possible, and gave a most 
excellent black powder, rtady to be taken in 
some liquid. For her complaint I preferred 
water gruei, which I administered according 
to the rules of an eminent doctor. At first, 
looking at my watch, I felt her pulse, which 
I found irregular ; though I cannot in con- 
science say, whether the irregularity lay in her 
pulse, or in my watch. I sent her to bed with 
orders to take, three times a day, the black 
powder in water gruel, most strictly pro- 
hibiting her from taking any nourishment 
whatever, because I recollected she told me 
she had not any appetite, therefore I did not 
want to go contrary to the wish of nature, 
but to perform my doctorship with know- 
ledge, as far as I could understand. I thought 
it proper to put her in a good feather-bed, to 
make her perspire ; a design which the wea- 
ther (it being summer-time) helped me to 
put in execution. Her servant girl swore at 



297 

uie, and told me that I would be the cause 
of her mistress's dissolution, she was in such 
a violent perspiration, which I attributed to 
the virtue of the black powder, and assured 
her it was a symptom of her speedy recovery. 
Of this I entertained no doubt from my at- 
tention, and the merits of this noble powder; 
for at the end of three days she had got a 
wolf's appetite, and sent to me to give her 
leave to eat a beefsteak. But, as the ge- 
neral practice of doctors led me, from many 
considerations, not to allow my patient to 
have any thing that came under the name of 
solid food, till she was reduced in strength, 
and as I had yet in my possession ten more 
of the medicinal powders to administer 
(though she had already consumed a num- 
ber of them), I sent her those to mix in 
water gruel ; but, in order to be more merci- 
ful than the rest of the faculty, in prescribing 
jalap, rhubarb, and laudanum, I permitted 
her, in case her appetite increased, to take 



298 

@ne egg for her dinner. But she soon took 
advantage of me, and exceeded her allow- 
ance ; for the next day, not waiting any 
longer, she eat half a yard of sausages, to 
the surprise of every one in the house, and 
her spirits were so much improved, that it 
was impossible to stop her prattle. 

I must say she was • of a generous disposi- 
tion ; for she did not forget to ask me for my 
bill, wanting to pay me for my ^abour: in 
truth, she was not wrong in her idea, for how 
can doctors and apothecaries live without 
being rewarded ? and if I had calculated my 
time in making the black powder, with at- 
tendance, feeling her pulse, and looking in, 
her eyes, (which is the hereditary practice 
amongst the doctors, in order to find some- 
thing, though I found in her large blue eyes 
nothing but a good deal of conversation), 
— for the whole of my trouble on this ocpa- 
sion, if I had charged her twenty pounds, 
I should have thought myself as honest a 



299 

man as possible. However, I was well re- 
warded by accepting of a writing-box from 
her son, as a memorandum that I cured his 
mother with a black powder, that could not 
do harm to ajiy body ; and, to my satisfaction, 
I found myself a doctor, without being at 
the trouble of taking a degree for this sub- 
lime knowledge, not having any ambition to 
aspire to the height of this noble specula- 
tion. 

I therefore set out for Waterford, through 
which town I once passed rapidly, if my rea- 
der recollects my shipwreck with Captain 
Stomerville. Here is the finest harbour I 
could find in Europe, and ships come up 
close to the quay. If I am correct in my re- 
collection, this city carries on a great trade 
with many kingdoms, and more particularly 
with England. There are no low spirits to be 
found amongst the inhabitants of Waterford : 
quite the reverse, their minds are occupied 
in looking after pleasures, and in shewing 



300 

kindness to strangers. I had the happiness 
of being introduced to their society ; and their 
attentions and eagerness to find out amuse- 
ments for me, give them a claim to be men- 
tioned with the profound est gratitude. 

After a few weeks spent in jollity amongst 
them, I changed my climate, and appeared at 
Armagh, where I had the honour to meet 
General Nugent, who was at that time Com- 
mander in Chief in Ireland. This amiable 
General, who, in whatever troublesome sta- 
tion b might be placed, was indefatigable in 
his duty, united, with a depth of understand- 
ing in his public, such dignity of sentiment 
in his private character, as to place his whole 
delight in captivating the hearts of the na- 
tion* How simple a process it seemed to 
such a man as him, to inspire amazing repu- 
tation by his bounty ; but, in truth, every 
thing he did was dictated by the same vir- 
tuous principle which he displayed, when he 
addressed the Judges of the Court-martial^ 



301 

and became the admiration of the whole 
kingdom. His high reputation led me to 
think, if such an illustrious man takes me 
under his patronage, it will procure good 
success to my benefit ; but, unfortunately, I 
had no prospect of getting introduced to 
him. I therefore ordered my concert bills 
to be distributed at any rate, lose or win : but, 
as good luck would have it, the General got 
a bill ; and, as great minds never sleep, but 
are watchful to do good, he sent me a card 
to invite me to dine with him, with express 
orders to bring an account of my politics. 
This gave me some uneasiness ; and, said I to 
myself, "It is true, politics are in great 
vogue at present, but for my part I am not 
acquainted with them, neither have I any 
letters to show him concerning political af- 
fairs, or any desire to enter into such con- 
cerns ;" wondering, at the same time, who 
could give such an unjust report of me, as to 
occasion such a demand. Knowing his up- 
Qq 



302 

right mind, I considered that I might go 
without fear, as he would soon discover my 
innocence, and set me free from calumny. 
I then began to take a review of my late and 
present actions, which suggested to my mind, 
what sort of report to give to the General ; 
which was this ;— -One morning a number of 
gentlemen came into my room, and were plea- 
sed to exhibit, eiiempore, a political drama, to 
exercise their wit. This strolling company 
of political players began with misrepresent- 
ing Pitt, Fox, and Camden, and then amused 
themselves with giving their representations 
of other men in power. But I remarked that 
not one of them acted the part of the Lord 
Lieutenant Cornwallis, which I concluded 
must be too difficult a task for them. During 
their performance, I could not help thinking 
these gentlemen stood in need of a surgeon 
or physician, to cure the disorder which had 
possessed their brains with the imagination 
that all Europe ought to be changed accord- 



303 

ing to their own fancy. Hearing such ab- 
surd dialogues, I thought it most prudent to 
keep a profound silence ; but, at last having 
exhausted all their sense, they became quiet, 
and asked me for my decision of these mat- 
ters. I excused myself, by saying, "Jam 
not acquainted with any kind of politics, 
except one, which, from its advantage to me, 
I prefer above all others ; and that is, the 
tickets in my pocket. May I venture to 
recommend my own plan ? I look upon it as 
the first political doctrine, to look at home, to 
observe propriety of conduct, attend to your 
domestic affairs, and to direct your family in 
a peaceable and orderly manner : the nation, 
if you act thus, will look upon you as a true 
son of the mother kingdom." 

This account, which was not improbable, 
contributed greatly to my introduction to the 
General and Mrs Nugent, from whom I had 
a kind reception, with such polite and friend- 
ly manners, that I might have thought my- 






self at home, had it not been for the deep 
sense I entertained of the respect due to 
them. Their method of conducting the con- 
versation was easy : every one was allowed a 
perfect freedom of reply, without the fear of 
be-ng interrupted, which is a defect we of- 
ten find in persons of little knowledge. In 
fact, I -.pent my time very pleasantly, talk- 
ing on a variety of subjects, which General 
and Mrs Nugent supplied, and by degrees 
Mrs N. introduced those politics of my tickets, 
wishing me to repeat my account, which I 
did, having no objection to deliver them. The 
General took particular notice of what I said ; 
and from what I could observe in his coun- 
tenance, it was to his satisfaction. At last, 
with some degree of precipitation, he asked 
me for my tickets ; and I had the honor of 
presenting them to him On receiving them, 
he said to me, " Your politics are truly plea- 
sant, having the power to unite all parties in 
good harmony, and to inspire general plea- 



305 

sure ; the rest are merely the effects of per- 
verseness and pride in a great part of mankind, 
which prevent them from ever experiencing 
such happiness as your own ; — a very just ob- 
servation indeed ! The next day was my con- 
cert, and I found the General's opinion of 
politics fully confirmed, when with astonish- 
ment I beheld a most brilliant society in my 
room. But this numerous company must be 
attributed to the patronage of Mrs Nugent, 
to whose powerful name the public wished 
to pay respect. The bounty of this amiable 
lady was already enough exerted to call for 
my warmest thanks ; yet not satisfied with 
bringing me such a numerous assembly as 
would have defrayed every expence, she sent 
me money to defray the whole amount, as 
if she had thought I had not before sufficient 
cause to recollect her ; though, in truth, gra- 
titude had impressed her image too strongly 
on my heart, ever to t>e obliterated. 



CHAP. XII. 

Visit to Kilkenny — Invitation to. dine with Lord Or- 
mond, who kindly patronizes a concert ; an unexpect* 
ed discovery or " agreeable surprize" — Introduction 
to Colonel Chapman and other military officers — 
Disappointment in consequence of the arrival of a 
French fleet, and the landing of General Hocke at 
Bantry Bay — Arrival at Longford — Journey to 
Drogheda — Advance and surrender of General 
Humbert — Passage from Ireland to the Isle of Man 
—Hospitable reception at Douglas — A strange din- 
ner party, and whimsical duel. 

After my lucrative benefit at Armagh, I 
prepared to visit Kilkenny. This excursion 
I took from the advice of an officer, whom I 
had met with at his quarters in several towns, 
and who by his kindness had evinced a great 
regard for me. This interesting gentleman 
was highly favored by nature, being adorned 



307 

with a most elegant figure, ar-d having an ex- 
cellent disposition, together with other estima- 
ble qualities in great perfection; so that he not 
only attracted the friendship of the men, but 
was much admired by the fair sex. In short, 
I never experienced more attention, he being 
a constant visitor at my house : as for his 
name, I nevermade inquiry about it; for, being 
a traveller, I thought it no material object, as 
I had no certainty of ever meeting him again. 
Before my departure I missed him, and found 
myself uneasy, wondering what had become 
of him. My inquiries after him put off my 
journey for some days. At last I found he 
had leave from the Colonel for a few days, 
but no one could inform me whither he was 
gone, therefore I set out and arrived at Kil- 
kenny. 

On the following morning, at breakfast, the 
Captain made his appearance. I cannot de- 
scribe how much I was gratified by his pre- 
sence. He called Noad to make some butter- 



80& 

eel toast, having not yet breakfasted, and 
being accustomed to take that meal with me. 
While we were drinking our coffee with 
good cream, and fresh butter upon the toast, 
Noad brought me a card of invitation from 
Lord Ormond to dine with him. I was 
rather inclined to refuse, and said to my 
friend, I was tired with my journey ; but he 
telling me he was invited there himself, and 
that it would be more pleasant for him to 
meet me, I could not refuse, and wrote an 
answer, that I would be there. After break- 
fast, he left me with a promise to return and 
accompany me to his Lordship, which he did. 
On my introduction to his Lordship, an un- 
expected scene presented itself to my view, 
I found in my unknown friend the Captain, 
the son of the illustrious Lord Ormond. This 
spectacle was indeed curious, for at my sur- 
prise both were delighted, and his Lordship 
could not conceive how I could be unac- 
quainted with his son's name. I replied, 



309 

that a name did not give title to friendship ; 
and besides, I never inquired, more or less, 
concerning the affairs of a friend who wish- 
ed to put trust in me ; so that, as the Captain 
thought proper not to mention his name, I 
had not thought right to ask it. However, it 
seems the Captain had only wished' to keep 
me in the dark till he found a time to intro- 
duce me to his amiable father, who did me 
the honour to receive me, not as a stranger, 
but as the distinguished friend of his son. 
In consequence, I was treated with great at- 
tention, and he patronized my concert, which 
succeeded admirably well. 

Notwithstanding the good benefits arid 
generous reception I met with in many towns, 
rinding the times in some degree unfavour- 
able, and the public in general to be occu- 
pied rather with political- affairs than with 
pleasure, I determined, without delay, to 
carry my speculation, of making an alliance 
with the military, into execution. 
r r 



310 

Though I had heard that Athlone itself 
was but an indifferent town, my project was 
to meet a great many military gentlemen, 
who had something to spare out of their in- 
come received from the national purse. Con- 
sequently, I set out to make experiments j and 
on my arrival at Athlone, my first occupation 
was to provide myself a lodging. Among all 
that offered themselves to my choice, I could 
not find a better than a small thatched house, 
belonging to the first Apothecary of the 
place, where I found the walls of my room 
bent on one side, so as to threaten an imme- 
diate fall ; but in some respects they were 
very convenient, as the door shut of itself 
without the assistance of the hand. When 
I found that the whole town consisted of 
such description of buildings, I became re- 
conciled to my own, and employed my time 
in making a large acquaintance amongst the 
officers. Colonel Chapman took particular 
notice of me, and kindly gave me a general 



311 

invitation to dine with him at the barracks - y 
I did not refuse his polite offer, but accepted 
it with the warmest thanks. There I spent 
my time in the greatest luxury, turning day 
into night, and night into day ; in fact, I be- 
came an imitator of their dissipated life, and 
found, by this contrivance, I should have a 
famous concert, as I saw the ladies of the 
neighbourhood ordering new gowns for that 
evening, when I had no doubt the attention 
and politeness of my friends the officers 
would attract a great company. 

Colonel Chapman appointed the night for 
my concert, and ail was fixed according to 
his pleasure ; but after we had been enjoying 
ourselves the evening and part of the night 
preceding my benefit, an express arrived, 
at three o'clock in the morning, that the 
French fleet with General Hoche, had 
taken advantage of the opportunity afford- 
ed by a thick fog, and landed at Bantiy 
Bay. Consequently, the whole garrison 



512 

was obliged to march to meet the enemy, 
and left me alone with my bills in my 
hand, like the Methodist preacher, whom I 
robbed of his flock. General Hoche's im- 
politic act swept off at once all the tine har- 
vest I had expected to reap from my benefit 
night. On hearing this dreadful news, I had 
the pleasure to see that the whole town pro- 
fessed great loyalty, as all the inhabitants 
shut their houses, and their favourite dish of 
bread pudding was not to be seen in the 
street, on its way to the baker's oven,- for fear 
of meeting a Frenchman. As to my land- 
lord, he was making great preparation, ex- 
pecting to have much practice among the 
wounded soldiers. This put me in mind to 
make enquiry about a number of articles, 
whether his shop was provided with them, as 
cream of tartar, flour of sulphur, plaster of 
betony, distillation of soot, sal volatile of vi- 
pers, sal ammoniac, and many other things 
that came into my head. The answer he de- 



313 

liVered was extremely proper, and contained 
u good deal more information than I expect- 
ed. As I had not the knowledge of sal am- 
moniac, he instructed me in this manner : — 
" Now, Sir," he said to me, " there has a re- 
markable surname been given to this salt, 
that is, ammoniac. Some centuries ago the 
authors of chymistry were pleased to invent a 
variety of names^ which there is no need for 
me to acquaint you with ; only I must tell 
you of the origin of this, which is as follows : 
There was a temple of Jupiter Ammon, si- 
tuated in the middle of the deserts of Lybia ; 
and a number of caravans passing over those 
sands, in their pilgrimage to that temple, we 
are indebted to the urine of the camels for 
this precious salt of nature. But at present 
we are quite at a loss, as pilgrimages have 
ceased, and we have nothing but an imitation 
from the manufactory of Venice or Anvers, 
where they prepare it with five parts of some 
stronger salts, and one part of sal marine, 



314 

with one-half part of soot, baked together to- 
reduce it into a mass, and make it appear 
like the original from our good friends the 
camels." 

When he had finished his relation of sal 
ammoniacs, he asked me if I understood what 
he said : "Partly/ 5 said I. " If not entirely," 
said he, " it is because you are a stranger to 
our tongue, for it is impossible to give you a 
clearer account. 5 * But, in truth, I paid little 
attention during the whole time he related 
the generation of his ammoniacs, having 
been occupied with thinking of my depar- 
ture from Athlone ; but that I might not give 
him cause to think me unpolite, I bade him 
shew me the sal ammoniac. "I have not any," 
he replied, " I keep only James's salt, which 
is more beneficial than any of those you have 
mentioned." I then said to him, " Let me see 
this excellent salt : " You cannot get better," 
said he, " to cure beef or pork, it is from the 
manufactory of Mr James at Belfast. 5 * I re- 



3L5 

plied, " I admire your ability in curing beef 
and pork ; how proud must the University be 
to produce such a clever scholar I" I would 
not enter farther into conversation, finding 
all his knowledge consisted in the art of 
pickling beef. 

To save time in my own concerns, I ex- 
amined my map to find which was the near- 
est town for me to go to, as I perceived my 
income beginning to be rather low. This I 
found to be Longford, the chief town of the 
county of that name, which I had also heard 
was a pleasant city j so I set out immediate- 
ly. On my arrival, I did not fail to meet 
with a good reception, though, in some de- 
gree, depressed by the gloom upon their coun- 
tenances, arising from the false alarm the 
French General had given them. Notwith- 
standing this, however, I became as fashion- 
able as a new dress just arrived for the ladies. 
The novelty of my person prevailed over 
every thing else ; no more was mentioned of 



316 

General Heche. Their houses were hospi- 
tably opened to receive me, and my name 
spread so far, that it reached the whole neigh- 
bourhood. I soon received a polite invita- 
tion to dine with a gentleman in the country ; 
and finding the distance to his house no more 
than one mile, I accepted it with pleasure. 
Some of the gentleman's friends came for 
me in a chaise, and we set out together. We 
soon arrived, and met a pleasant society, who 
were by no means remiss in circulating merry 
conversation. The lively repartee and sensi- 
ble remarks of an enchanting circle of ladies, 
induced us to forget home, and we did not 
think of the late hour, till the ladies put us in 
mind of our departure. We then all got ready 
to go ; but it was in vain, for the -servant in- 
formed us, that a message had come from the 
master of the inn to say, there was not a chaise 
to be got in the town, they being all engaged 
with passengers ; therefore, some of the party 
wanted to walk, but the darkness of the night 



317 

and the heavy rain prevented this : so a goo.d 
deal of confusion ensued amongst us, which at 
last put the master of the house in a state of 
uneasiness, and he declared his best jaunting 
car was broken, and the one he had at home 
he was ashamed to offer, but they begged of 
him to make it ready. 

Mr Macguire, the master of the house, then 
provided from his neighbours pelisses for his 
friends the ladies, also great coats for tire 
gentlemen, and for me his own spencer, in 
winch my little figure cut so droll an appear- 
ance, that no one could stand for laughing ; 
but, in spite of this caricature, I was very well 
pleased with being so snug. When all was 
ready and disposed to move, Mr Macguire 
gave orders to put his favourite mare to the 
cart, which had the reputation of being a 
quiet beast : so at last we went with lanthorns 
to take possession of our seats. I was favour- 
ed with being near the driver, and close behind 
the mare. I admired her long tail, and it 
s s 



318 

seemed to me, her keepers had not been at 
all sparing of their oats. But when we be- 
gan our trip, I found myself in an awkward 
situation ; and, being without experience in 
such expeditions, I confess, I could not find 
any method to keep myself steady ; and I 
received such violent shakes, sudden tosses, 
and pulls, that I was near falling to the 
ground. Obliged, therefore, to lie down, I 
accidentally found something to keep hold of 
with my hand, and thus secured myself; but 
another inconvenience arose ; for, if I moved 
in the least, I was in danger of losing my life. 
Whilst I was in this very awkward situation, 
the mare, giving full scope to her natural dis- 
position, kept beating my face with her tail, 
which prevented me from opening my eyes, 
for fear of being blinded : for this exercise of 
patience, I was amply rewarded by bringing 
upon my head great plenty of such materials 
as are useful to improve mushrooms, turnips, 
and cabbage. However, the ladies and gentle- 



319 

men had their share of the dirty road ; for, on 
their appearance at home, the servants did 
not know their masters, and were obliged to 
prepare baths for them, as Noad had done for 
me. After our purification from this dirty 
condition, I next day found the ladies in my 
concert room, the beautiful bloom of whose 
faces had sustained no injury, and who did 
me the honour to be the ornaments of the 
last night I spent in that good city. 

Next day I took my departure for Droghe- 
da. My principal object was to reach good 
winter quarters, as I considered that the bad 
season was advancing : therefore, I passed 
through many places where I only changed 
horses, and at last came to Slone. According 
to my recollection, it was a dark night, and 
bitterly cold. At a distance from the town 
I perceived an Aurora Borealis, or flame in 
the sky, with which my eyes were so delight- 
ed, that I could not withdraw them from it, 
Whilst my mind was completely buried m 



320 

humbly reflecting on the works of our great 
Creator, I did not notice where I was, and 
found myself close to the flame, when a guard 
stopped the chaise with an order to go no 
further. An officer on duty soon appeared, 
inquiring who was in the chaise, and finding 
from his language he was no common man, I 
took the opportunity of begging to speak to 
him. On hearing my voice^ he approached the 
chaise ; and, opening the door, very friendly 
shook hands with me, saying, in French, lit 
was acquainted with my name, and immedi- 
ately wrote a %qte, with a request that I woulcl 
deliver it to the Colonel, and gave directions 
to the driver, in English, where to go. During 
this conversation, we were provided with a 
light ; and, from the appearance which this 
gentleman made, I took him for a Russian 
officer, as he had on a green uniform. At 
this time his Russian Majesty was upon 
friendly terms with Great Britain, and I 
imagined that his troops had landed to pre- 



80! 

vent an invasion from the enemy, who had 
been again expected. With this strange idea 
I was persuaded that I should find some un- 
cultivated Kalmucks ; but my false notion 
was soon removed, when I met with the es- 
sence of Irish politeness j and such sweetness 
of manners and attention a,s are far beyond 
my ability to describe. 

We supped very late ; and after that, my 
eyes becoming rather heavy from the fatigue 
of my journey, the Colonel ordered my bed 
to be made ready, and in a few minutes, with 
the rest of the officers, conducted me to it, 
desiring me not to put off my clothes, that T 
might be ready to set out at five o'clock. Of 
the reasons for this, I am not able to give an 
explanation j but it is certain, the Colonel with 
some of the officers came at the hour appoint- 
ed, and made me rise, -and conducted me to a 
room where breakfast was waiting for me, 
and immedately after, put me into a chaise, 
when I took my last farewell, for I have never 
met with them again. 



32£ 

On my arrival at Drogheda, I did not find 
any thing worthy of remark, but the hand- 
some harbour, which I compared to the I Af- 
fey in the bay of Dublin. My stay in these 
winter quarters was but short, as I perceived 
the citizens involved in deep gloom, rejecting 
all kind of amusements, and without any sign 
of recovering their good spirits, the minds 
of the whole town being in a state of alarm, 
with the idea of a second visit from the 
French. Whatever their uneasiness might 
be, it did not make any impression on my 
mind y for when I reflected on the refined 
knowledge and politeness of the French* na- 
tion, I considered that if it were possible 
they should become masters of the kingdom, 
when they felt their own superiority, it would 
be their interest not to oppress the people, 
or be savage ; otherwise, they would show 
how ill-founded and hollow was the reputa- 
tion they enjoyed of being a civilized nation. 
I thus persuaded myself, to indulge a good 



3 C 23 

opinion of them ; otherwise, perhaps, I should 
have shrunk into a corner like the inhabitants 
of Drogheda, but I would not allow their 
spreading fears to influence me, and boldly 
changed my asylum. 

Fickle fortune now frustrated all the exer- 
tions I made for my welfare j for when I vi- 
sited Enniskillen, Kerry, Bandon, and Fer- 
managh, the benefit I received was precisely 
such as if I had sown pease, and the cater- 
pillars had destroyed them. The French 
General Humbert landing at Killalla, became 
master of the town, and of Tuam which lay in 
his route. Elated by his rapid progress, he 
rashly advanced to Castlebar, where he met 
General Lake, a man of great understanding 
in the art of war, and whose measures were 
no doubt wisely taken ; but the battle which 
ensued, made no impression upon Humbert, 
and he directed his way to Dublin. But the 
Marquis Cornwallis, a man of great natural 
sweetness of disposition, and much knowledge, 



324 

Coming up, eight hundred French laid down 
their arms to him without resistance. 

The motives which occasioned this inva- 
sion of General Humbert, are to me un- 
known ; but such actions, however they may 
be in request with the lovers of war, and ad- 
mirers of heroic exploits, are nevertheless 
odious to a quiet and feeling mind. But who 
is to be blamed, Humbert or his master, by 
whose orders he acted ?— that master whom I 
may perhaps be allowed to compare to Nebu- 
chadnezzar, ordained from above as a power- 
ful instrument to carry into captivity the 
whole of the Israelites. 

I confess I have no great knowledge in 
these matters, and shall therefore content 
myself with mentioning what I can remem- 
ber of a story of the King of the Mice, whose 
rapacious disposition induced him to plunder 
many things from the farmer's stores, the 
acquisition of the booty increased his cove- 
tousness, and the fulness of his pride still 



325 

tempted him to grasp at more of his neigh- 
bour's goods, he therefore committed fresh 
depredations ; and assembled, from the re- 
motest provinces, his wise subjects, and dis- 
closed his eager desire to take into his pos- 
session a delightful place, and make himself 
absolute master of it. The whole council 
not only approved, but highly admired his 
Majesty's project, and agreed to send ambas- 
sadors to the rats and weazels, inviting their 
Monarchs to join his tribe, with a promise 
to divide the spoil, and to immortalize their 
race. <An alliance soon took place between 
them, and the war ended in their taking 
possession of the rich granaries of the mole, 
putting to desolation whatever they could 
find, and dividing the cheese amongst them- 
selves. These animals, whose natures were 
corrupted by ambition, spreading as fast as 
possible, increased their insolence so far, that 
they became insupportable, oppressing num- 
bers of the common-wealth, though they 
t t 



326 

could have no just title to claim possession 
of another's right. But this success, the 
baneful fruit of their false glory, impelled 
the King of the Ichneumons, who perceived 
their rapacious inclination, and their endea- 
vours to devour his property, to rise against 
them. This Monarch accordingly declared 
war against them, and coming into the field, 
proved himself a most formidable enemy. 
His proclamation was treated by those little 
animals with contempt, and all their com- 
bined force rushed furiously from their holes' 
to swallow him. But, notwithstanding this, 
they could make no impression on the Ichneu- 
mon, as that Prince was continually upon his 
watch, and ready to receive them, carrying on 
his attacks without dread, and in remarkably 
good order, falling on the back of the enemy's 
army with amazing swiftness, seizing with 
the greatest dexterity all their chief com- 
manders, and pressing closely to regain the 
cheese which had been taken from his friend 



327 

the mole ; a part of which, that had not been 
consumed, he succeeded in recovering. 

The rest of this little story, I am sorry to 
say, has escaped my memory. I must there- 
fore return to General Humbert, who made 
such an impression on the whole Irish nation, 
as proved particularly distressing to my strong 
box : so that I retreated as quickly as my 
horses could carry me to Newtown, where 
I could not find a ship, and was obliged to 
take a fishing boat, in which I went to the 
Isle of Man, and landed without accident at 
Peele. I did not think it worth my while to 
make any stay in this little naked town, nor 
did curiosity induce me to examine the castle 
and monastery near the sea, which had been 
destroyed by some renowned warrior, as I 
had seen in Great Britain more remarkable 
ancient ruins. 

Castletown I understood to be the chief 
place of the island, and the seat of the gove- 
nor's residence j notwithstanding which, it is 



3 C 28 

far from being so populous as Douglas, on 
account of its harbour. I thought it would 
answer my purpose better to visit Douglas, 
and quit Castletown, which I accordingly 
did, and arrived at Douglas, where I was 
received with the utmost hospitality by the 
worthy inhabitants; and I can never forget my 
obligations to them, nor the powerful claim 
which they have upon my warmest grati- 
tude. 

This island attracts a number of strangers 
of every kind, who resort to it on account of 
debts contracted in their own country, as 
this is a general refuge for such persons as 
are not disposed to pay a visit to a gaol. 
Those people seemed to me to have neglect- 
ed the principles of good management at 
home, and to have acquired a habit of living 
upon the public industry. 

A performer from the Dublin stage ar- 
rived soon after me, who made an addition 
to the number of those who professed them- 



3%9 

selves enemies to the cares and labours of 
life. I have often seen those people form a 
cheerful society, and have beheld their tables 
furnished with luxuries. The last-mentioned 
gentleman, being well known in public, want- 
ed to prove his abilities in private, by col- 
lecting those gentry who professed the same 
principles as himself ; amongst whom he 
thought me of the number, and honoured 
me with an invitation to dine. I was at first 
inclined not to accept this favour, thinking 
he might employ his money to a better pur- 
pose, namely, to pay his creditors ; but the 
Mayor of the town, who was present when I 
received this invitation, prevented my sending 
a message to that effect, by the introduction 
of some remarks on the imprudence of those 
persons, who having the enjoyment of many 
thousands per annum, and being sufficiently 
entitled to be called rich, act contrary to the 
rules of good order, and contract such enor- 
mous debts, that it is impossible to think oh 



330 

their conduct without laughing at their folly. 
In his observations, however, the worthy 
Mayor had forgotten to distinguish the case 
of those who are dissolute, idle, and extra- 
vagant, from that of those rich persons who 
are often to be found gifted by nature with 
brilliant powers and extraordinary talents ; 
but, living in kingdoms governed nearly on 
principles of equality, are consequently ob- 
liged to expose their fortune amongst the 
general mass of the people, in order to be- 
come useful members of their nation ; so that 
before they are brought forward to shew 
their zeal in serving the kingdom, they find 
themselves deprived of their income. 

On further consideration, the situation of 
this performer of the stage excited my 
curiosity, and I accepted his invitation, mere- 
ly to see what sort of persons he and his 
friends were; and, to my astonishment, I found 
his table covered with delicacies : his man- 
ners, I could perceive, were such as did not 



331 

betoken a solid mind ; nor was his situation cal- 
culated to afflict a man of sensibility. I en- 
joyed a sort of gratification, in being admit- 
ted to a close inspection of persons who led 
a dissipated life, yet preserved a specious 
shew of honesty, the reality of which only 
belongs to a good man, in the continual ex- 
ercise of virtue. My performer celebrated 
his birth-day in so splendid a manner, and 
assumed such personal dignity, that you 
would have supposed him a Prince of the 
greatest fortune. He was reported to be a 
learned man ; and possibly he might be so. 
There was, however, an air of melancholy in 
his countenance, which might be perceived 
even in the midst of his gaiety, and which, 
like soap in hard water, could never be tho- 
roughly blended with that sprightly quality. 

The unfortunate situation of this man 
brought to my recollection an observation of 
our eminent writer, Kobylanski, that he had 
found many learned in different branches of 



332 

science, yet unsteady in their actions, which 
arise from the defects of their natural dispo- 
sitions having been overlooked, and from 
their giving way to hurtful inclinations, 
which administered constant fuel to a cor- 
rupt life, and subdued all the active princi- 
ples of their mind. Experience has taught 
me the correctness of this author's ideas. 

I was highly disgusted with listening to a 
variety of empty conversation, which at last 
terminated with the greatest spirit, produced 
by the influence of the bottle. I bade them 
good night, and very gladly retreated to my 
quiet room. I was very well satisfied that I 
was not present at a tragic scene, which I 
since learned was performed by the master 
of the feast, after my departure, in the part 
of the cruel Tyrrel, when he announced to 
Richard the Third, that he had executed his 
orders, and put to death both the young 
Princes. It happened at that time, that one 
of the company, being much in liquor, took 



333 

it in earnest, and thinking he had killed 
those innocent infants, without further ex- 
planation, approached him with fury, and 
gave him a blow, which produced a black 
eye, hallooing at the same time out of the 
window, for a constable to take him into cus- 
tody. The people in the street hearing the 
alarm, and not knowing the real state of the 
affair, procured a constable, who finding no- 
thing but a drunken man, left the room with 
contempt. Next day, one of those fellows 
did not fail to bring me the news, with all 
the particulars of the affront received by this 
actor ; in consequence of which, he was de- 
termined to fight a duel, as soon as he could 
find a second, but he found it difficult to ob- 
tain one. 

In the course of this conversation, we were 
interrupted by two officers of my acquaint- 
ance, with whom I have often spent a plea- 
sant day. After the usual ceremony of shak- 
ing hands, I made an apology to the man for 
u u 



334 

the interruption which had been given to his 
interesting and serious narrative, and begged 
of him to continue his story, which he very 
politely did ; and the officers, on hearing 
the insult which had been offered to the per- 
former, engaged themselves to be seconds 
to the parties. Meantime, I used my endea- 
vours to reconcile, if possible, both parties ; 
but the officers obstinately rejected my pro- 
posal. I was surprised at their inhuman- 
ity, until, at the departure of the man, they 
declared to me the trick they intended to 
play upon them. They soon found out their 
lodgings, which were in appearance tolerably 
neat rooms, and might be distinguished by 
the nose as well as by the eye ; for the one was 
at a butcher's, the other at a fishmonger's, 
house. My performer did not refuse to be- 
have like a man of courage ; but his adver- 
sary, on the proposal being made to him, ap- 
peared not at all to relish it, as he replied, 
with a hollow voice, that he was an emigrant, 



335 

a French master, from Dieppe ; that he un- 
derstood drawing a little, and had already 
made a map of England, with all the coun- 
try seats of the great lords, accompanied 
with remarks, so that no traveller could mis- 
take them ; from which work he expected to 
gain considerable profit. But, as to fighting, 
he had a very slight knowledge of it ; and it 
was nat at all convenient to him to exhibit 
talents which he had cultivated so little : be- 
sides this, there was another obstacle ; for his 
feelings would not allow him to fight against 
a man belonging to a nation from which he 
received a pension as an emigrant. 

This excuse, according to my judgment, was 
sufficient ; but my friends the officers, wishing 
to enjoy some fun, persuaded him to appear 
in the field of battle. But when he was near 
the appointed spot, we perceived no small ter- 
ror in his countenance, while with a confused 
voice he said, " That unfortunate evening there 
must have been a malicious and evil spirit in. 



336 

the wine, which introduced madness and 
mischief, whose effects are too visible in the 
eyes of my adversary : if I only escape from 
this disaster, it shall be a warning to me to 
keep my hands and tongue quiet ever after, 
and to retire to a solitary state of life, where I 
may find peace of mind, and a freedom from 
such snares as this in which I am now caught." 
No doubt he was so far right : retirement has 
a variety of resources, and affords a perfect 
security for study and meditation, and a har- 
bour from those tremendous storms of the 
passions which often overwhelm minds un- 
able to bear them. 

One of the greatest advantages arising 
from a retired life I may illustrate, by com- 
paring it to the inoculation of infants, to pre- 
vent in a future age the many serious dis- 
orders which arise from the small-pox. It will 
be seen from this comparison, that I mean 
the care of children's education, which I think 
is the first duty of parents, and no difficult 



337 

matter to be put into execution. Of course, 
religious principles of any kind may easily be 
instilled into, and strongly impressed upon, 
their minds. We have an example in the case 
of Perigune, the daughter of Sinnis, the fa- 
mous pine-bender, who, after her father was 
killed, took refuge in a remote place, where 
she was found in a spot overgrown with 
shrubs ; and, according to the author's ac- 
count who relates the story, she addressed 
her prayers to the wild asparagus and other 
plants : and her descendants, in process of 
time, venerated and worshipped the plants 
which had afforded an asylum to their an- 
cient mother. When once a religious per- 
suasion is fixed by education, it strenuous- 
ly resists every other form of belief, as if 
custom were the criterion of the true faith. 
Similar pains and trouble in other branches 
of education, will, where the understanding 
is naturally good, produce a great fund of 
knowledge ; but the main object must always 



338 

be,, to instil the principles of virtue, and teach 
scholars to know themselves and the world, 
which will afford them the means of enjoying 
a happy life : thus instructed, they will al- 
ways have materials ready to engage their 
attention, which is of great benefit ; and they 
may therefore, at any time, enjoy a perfect 
independence, and the opportunity of im- 
proving their minds in a happy retirement. 

But to return to my Frenchman : Who 
could possibly expect that he would adopt such 
a quiet life as this, for himself as well as for 
his companions, as professors of a dissipated 
life ? And, very probably, he had arrived at 
the degree of doctor in that profession of dis- 
sipation. Such a man would find himself in 
a deplorable situation in the solitude he talk- 
ed of, stretching his inactive limbs in his 
arm chair, and anxiously wishing for the 
time when he might retire to his bed, which 
is the grand luxury of such insignificant 
beings. So that, when I consider his speech 



339 

more closely, the anxiety which he expressed 
for such a tranquil life, seems to me to have 
been merely the effects of his fright and 
cowardly disposition, which manifested it- 
self by very strong symptoms at the place 
appointed for the duel ; for he trembled like 
the leaf of a tree in a high wind, and his 
head shook like its branches, whilst he de- 
clared, that he wished he could guess what 
would be the consequence, before he gave 
the blow, and that this was a more pain- 
ful tribute to pay than the income tax* look- 
ing all the time he spoke, to see if he could 
make a safe retreat. 

"We found no less consternation in the 
face of the player, who would have drawn 
back from the combat, had not the officers 
insisted on his going through the business 
without delay. They then presented to them 
balls, which in fact were large pills ingeni- 
ously prepared, so that no one could dis- 
cover they were artificial, and a small quan- 



340 

tity of powder, and obliged them both to 
fire. At the discharge of the pistols, their 
ideas became confused, so that they ran 
fro;n each other in different directions : one 
fell into a hole full of water, the other a- 
against a stone, which bruised his nose in 
such a manner, that Lavater, the great ob- 
server of that organ, could have made no- 
thing of it. When he perceived the blood, 
he was in despair, thinking it was occasioned 
by the ball passing through his head. In fact, 
both the champions were terribly alarmed ; 
whilst the officers employed themselves in 
acquainting the public with the joke, and in 
shewing the pretended balls j which excited 
great merriment among the spectators. 
The appearance of the combatants was truly 
ludicrous, and afforded a fine subject for 
mirth, when the one was drawn out from the 
hole, with his clothes covered with dirt, his 
face besmeared, and his head like one of the 
mops they wash rooms with ; and the other 



341 

with his eyes patched, and his nose bruised, 
looked like a beggar scraping ballad tunes 
on the violin. 

Both those worthy gentlemen, whose abi- 
lities only served them to pamper their 
bodies with good living, and who might just- 
ly be considered a discredit to their own 
country, and not fit to be admitted into a 
foreign kingdom, were driven with disgrace 
and with the hootings of the mob to their 
lodgings. 



x x 



CHAP. XIII. 

A more respectable dinner party than that described 
in the last Chapter — Cautions and advice respecting 
our conduct, and those we choose for companions— 
The towns of Douglas and Whitehaven contrasted — 
Journey from the latter place to Newcastle upon 
Tyne ,• kind reception and lucrative concert there- 
Arrival in Durham ; description of its romantic 
situation and charming scenery — Humanity and 
active benevolence of the Clergy — Character of Dr. 
Harrington, the present Bishop — Introduction to 
Mr. Smelt, and visit to that gentleman — Proceeds to 
Hull — Series of distressing events — Quits Hull for 
London, intending to proceed to America ; is pre- 
vailed upon to remain in England ,• receives great 
kindness from the Archbishop of Dublin, the Misses 
Metcalfe, Lady Hayoarden, and Mr Burdon of 
Hartford. 

After the extraordinary duel related in the 
preceding chapter, I went to dine with the 



343 

officers at the barracks, where I met my worthy 
friend the Mayor, who acquainted the Colo- 
nel, that I had spent the preceding evening 
with the emigrants. I perceived the Colonel 
was not very well pleased with my visiting 
them, the motive for which was his kind at- 
tention to my welfare ; and I have experi- 
enced in my travels, that not only he, but 
the public in general, looked sharp upon my 
movements, and generously directed my con- 
duct, considering that I had little experience, 
and that accident had thrown me into the bust- 
ling world, which made them take a more 
than fatherly interest, to give me good morals 
for my future welfare. When the amiable 
Mayor explained to him, for what purpose I 
had gone, the Colonel was soon satisfied, and 
expressed his conviction, that no harm was 
done ; but that it would serve to show me the 
varied shades of human life, and their ill ex- 
ample would give light to my mind, how to 
avoid bad principles. I could not be more 



344 

overjoyed than at that moment, in witnessing 
the interest he took for my person, but was 
a little afraid my visit might injure my repu- 
tation. It seems, he was aware of the au- 
thority of public opinion, and that there is 
no appeal, from their judgment, even for the 
greatest Monarchs, who, great as they are, 
are often not exempt from bowing before 
their tribunal. 

In the course of my apprenticeship to the 
world, during which I have been obliged 
closely to study the immensity of objects 
which present themselves to our notice, I 
have found, that as it is mere accident to be 
born of poor or of rich parents, so this ac- 
cident does not allow arrogance to one, nor 
meanness to another, but both should keep 
an even balance in their station. Reflecting 
also on the singular corruption of our nature, 
I strove to banish all ridiculous chimeras of 
fancy, and to curb the unruly passions of 
envy, and of others which I shall not describe, 



34*5 

and which we often see presented to our 
eyes, like so many strange pictures disguised 
with all. the art of the painter, in order to 
deceive the public eye, which is ever watch- 
ful over our actions. But we must not for- 
get, that the public will continue to exercise 
their privilege, and nothing can prevent their 
looking at the concerns of men. A quiet 
man may sleep secure under the inspection 
of such legislators : and although this tur- 
bulent society often exercises its unlimited 
power amiss, yet it is good daily to attend 
its lectures. I have been in the midst of 
those good conductors and debating advo- 
cates, and have heard sentence pronounced 
on imprudent members, and have remarked, 
that no respect was paid to their rank or their 
high abilities. This opened my mind to the 
nature of their judgments, and I could not 
adopt their practice ; but it served me for a 
lesson, how to find the true method, by which 
I might not only avoid the censure of their 



346 

high tribunal, but so far become their master, 
as to dispose of them as far as the limited 
nature of my own affairs would admit, and 
as far as my political interest could extend. 
As to this contrivance which I have so bold- 
ly exposed, and which, if it will not serve for 
example, may remain with me ; it is not to 
be supposed a science, but the simple dictate 
of nature, without the labour of study, and 
such as does not stand in need of any labour- 
ed explanation. I may explain it by this 
similitude : The smith can without fear 
touch cold metals, and examine their quali- 
ties, which differ greatly one from another ; 
then, understanding the nature of his metal, 
he is aware that keeping it in such a state of 
hardness will not give him any profit, and 
that it must be prepared in a furnace and 
made flexible, for which purpose these three 
articles are useful — fire to make it manage- 
able, pincers to prevent accident, and the 
hammer to shape it to his fancy. So I think 



347 

that if we know well their nature, we may 
by a proper process manage the public, which, 
to say the truth, is pleased with greater ease, 
than soups are skimmed and made clear. 

Those who have seen as many nations and 
remote kingdoms as I have passed through, 
will agree, that not only empires, but parti- 
cular towns offer to us various natures of 
men, which ought to be consulted. The 
event of this method was visible in Turkey, 
where the invention of the Koran produced 
a multitude of sects, as numerous as maggots 
in a rotten cheese, and government was in 
no better condition, but nearly in a state of 
anarchy ; therefore, to avoid such errors, the 
law should be adapted as closely as possible 
to the nature of the people's disposition, 
otherwise the government is in danger. 

What I have said of the different natures 
of mankind, may be illustrated by the re- 
markable contrast I observed between the 
town of Douglas and the rich Whitehaven. 



348 

Douglas inspired me with respect and love, 
and taught me to remember its kind reception ; 
the town of Whitehaven seemed like a hive 
of industrious bees, with watchful care, for- 
bidding the butterfly to taste their honey. 
I therefore took leave, and crossed the coun- 
ty of Cumberland, which abounding in barren 
mountains cannot boast of the fertility of 
her soil. I went into the country no fur- 
ther than Carlisle, finding nothing to attract 
my attention, and from thence proceeded to 
Newcastle-upon-Tyne. I had no reason to 
repent my visit to that town, the inhabitants 
of which generously took notice of me, and 
by their kindness changed the gloomy aspect 
of my affairs, putting me in a state of de- 
fence, which enabled me briskly to repulse 
the attacks of want. General Dickson, Mr 
Abbs, and Mr Gibson, gave me proofs of 
their good dispositions, and of the national 
benevolence, which was exerted, not less 
nobly in improving the situation of an indi- 



3L9 

vidual like myself, than in supporting con- 
siderable kingdoms by their liberality ; not 
only loading them with immense sums of 
money, but clothing the nakedness of their 
faithful subjects. And as they must have 
enjoyed the fruits of this bounty with addi- 
tional pleasure, from receiving it at the 
hands of so generous a nation ; so in my case 
I felt proud of the exertions of my protec- 
tors, who procured me a lucrative concert, 
in addition to many other kindnesses con- 
ferred on me. Two celebrated performers, 
Mr. Wright and Mr. Monro, both generously 
offered me their assistance, and performed 
that evening with many other gentlemen 
their friends : so that the concert room was 
not only well filled, through the interest of 
my benefactors, but graced by many of the 
most beautiful ladies, who appeared to en- 
chant every eye, and inspire universal ad- 
miration, by the gracefulness of their per- 



650 

sons, and the lovely complexions they had 
inherited from nature. 

The circumstances of my situation soon 
compelled me to quit Newcastle, which the 
generous reception I had experienced, and 
charming society I had met there, made me 
leave with great regret. I cannot speak of 
Newcastle without mentioning my obliga- 
tions to Mr. Walker, from the very active in- 
terest he took in promoting my benefit. He 
ordered many thousands of bills to be deliver- 
ed from his printing-office ; and, in addition 
to this, inserted the advertisement of my con- 
cert in several newspapers. These articles 
must have amounted to a considerable ex- 
pence ; but he refused to accept any other 
compensation than my gratitude, which, warm 
as it is, can never sufficiently repay his ge- 
nerosity. 

General Dickson kindly advised me to 
visit the City of Durham, and thus dispersed 
the darkness and gloomy uncertainty of my 



351 

prospects. He put me into the hands of his 
friend Mr. Ebdon, to whom, on my arrival, I 
presented his letter. This introduction to 
such a worthy man, afforded me not only the 
advantage of a generous reception from him- 
self, and friendly admittance to his house, 
but also of being made acquainted with a 
select society. The pleasure I enjoyed in 
his company and interesting conversation, 
and that of his amiable family, made such 
an impression on my mind, that I said to 
myself: "Though travelling is a troublesome 
life, yet its fatigues are repaid by meeting 
with such friends as these." I was not only 
delighted with the liveliness of his discourse 
and quickness of his repartee, but had the 
still greater happiness of being the intimate 
friend of a man richly endued from above 
with virtuous principles. The merit of the 
Misses Ebdon is equally to be admired, who 
are the very same picture, in respect to cha- 
racter, as their father : the same good quali- 



352 

ties are to be found in their dispositions, excit- 
ing them to acts of benevolence as far as their 
power extends. Their feelings leave no room 
to doubt the goodness of their hearts, and 
purity of their sentiments ; which, it must be 
no less gratifying to them to possess, than it 
was flattering to me to be introduced to such 
a worthy family. 

My time was spent most pleasantly in the 
society of my friends, or in examining the 
wonderful situation of the City of Durham. 
I was much struck with the river Wear, 
which runs round it in the shape of a horse 
shoe : it might with little trouble be made 
an island, but in its present state it bears the 
name of a peninsula. Close to the neck of 
land, are the remains of a tower, surrounded 
by the handsome garden of the Bishop's pa- 
lace, and beautifying the point of the penin- 
sula. The Cathedral is a most ancient and 
grand edifice, in a picturesque situation, with 
an extreme declivity on the south and west 



353 

sides down to the river, the banks of which 
are wooded in profusion, and present that 
appearance of romantic wildness which is a- 
mong the greatest beauties of nature. Great 
improvements have been made in them by 
the Dean and Chapter, who give them up to 
the enjoyment of the public. 

I was surprised to hear of such a liberal 
disposition ; and my curiosity inducing me to 
make further inquiry, I was highly gratified 
by the information I received. A friend, 
whom I highly respect, acquainted me that 
they are a body distinguished for their muni- 
ficence, employing their revenue chiefly in 
the practice of good actions, and in repair- 
ing the Cathedral, or their splendid houses, 
as has been done by the Rev. Dr. Haggitt, 
and Rev. Dr. Prosser, and the Hon. and Rev. 
Mr. Grey, with a view to circulate money 
among the poor working people ; expend- 
ing also large sums in subscription to hospi- 
tals, and in other public undertakings for the 



354 

good of the nation : all which expences oc- 
cupy much of their revenues. Indeed, their 
keeping the romantic and beautiful banks of 
Durham in repair, on purpose to please the 
inhabitants, must require a considerable sum 
yearly. Yet I find from my worthy friend, 
that their benevolence makes them forget 
all these heavy expences. I cannot forbear 
to add, that Lord and Lady Barrington, at 
Sedgefield, are looked upon as the parents of 
the distressed, and that their charitable at- 
tention to the poor is as remarkable as the 
distinguished title they have attained. My 
friend informed me, that his Lordship the 
Bishop of St. David's, whose bishopric is well 
known to be of small emolument, and whose 
dignified rank must necessarily require much 
to support it, when the living of Northaller- 
ton some time ago became vacant, and his 
Lordship's seniority in the Chapter, afford- 
ed him a desirable opportunity of improving 
his income, by merely taking possession of 



555 

that to which the law gave him an undoubted 
right, he refused this living on its being of- 
fered to him, with the reply, that as he should 
not be able personally to discharge its duties, 
his conscience would not allow him to accept 
it. " This noble act," I observed, " surpas- 
ses all my conceptions of virtue." " I am 
afraid," answered my friend, " that the great 
Doctors now assembled in Congress at Vien- 
na, will not be able to produce from their 
University, such distinguished masters as they 
are, so striking an example of virtue." 

At Sunderland, I found that the Rev. Dr. 
Gray, Rector of Bishopwearmouth, generous- 
ly dedicated his time to the advantage of the 
inhabitants, by promoting several schools for 
the poor children of that place ; and that 
Mrs. Gray has the benevolence personally to 
attend to two hundred girls. This respect- 
able Divine, I understand, does not confine 
his charity merely to the poor children of his 
own parish, but with universal benevolence 



356 

and smiling benignity, calls around him the 
needy and distressed of all descriptions, and 
gives them every facility of emerging from 
their wretchedness. Among others, my 
friend related to me an anecdote of this 
body, which I noted in my memorandum 
book, as travellers are accustomed to do 
when they meet with any thing particularly 
worthy of observation. An officer and his 
wife came from Newcastle, on a visit to their 
friend in Durham : the officer being a gen- 
tleman of considerable information, and pos- 
sessing great wit, had the power of making 
himself agreeable to company with very little 
trouble. One evening, at a party, he was 
amusing his auditors with serious and jocose 
conversation, when his lady interrupted him 
in rather an unpleasant way, describing to 
her neighbour the new fashions which had 
come out that year. Those two ladies now 
engrossed the conversation so compleatly to 
themselves, and entered into such a detailed 



357 

account of fashionable dresses, that ever) 
one had given up all hopes of getting in a 
single word, when at last the Captain, with- 
out ceremony, cut short the dialogue, by 
begging his wife not to exhaust herself, for 
fear she should get a brain fever, but to let 
him give an account of the battle of Sala- 
manca, which he accordingly began. If this 
narration may be relied on, his company dis- 
played such gallantry in this engagement, 
that they destroyed 300 French, in killed, 
wounded, and missing j and that the French 
standard was taken by his lieutenant. His 
lady, who found silence a very grievous pe- 
nance, here observed, " My dear, this very 
same lieutenant is now a prisoner in Durham 
gaol for debt." A respectable clergyman, 
the Rev. W. Baverstock, who was present in 
the company, on hearing this, was so much 
surprised, and his feelings were so much af- 
fected, that he went to inquire whether he 
deserved assistance, and if it should be found 
z z 



358 

he did, to set him at liberty. He found, to 
his satisfaction, that this gentleman had con- 
tracted his debts merely from his desire to 
maintain a respectable appearance as an offi- 
cer, and not, as we often find is the case, from 
dissipated conduct. The worthy Baverstock 
then endeavoured to deliver him from his 
captivity, but in vain ; as he found that he 
could not, at the lowest estimation, supply 
from his own income the demand of the cre- 
ditors. Happily, however, knowing where to 
find those whose merciful dispositions would 
make them gladly step forward to relieve 
such unmerited distress, he went without de- 
lay to that amiable man, the Rev. R. G. Bou- 
yer, and explained to him all the particulars 
concerning this unfortunate officer. Mr. Bou- 
yer immediately took him under his protec- 
tion, and engaged that he should be relieved 
from his distressful situation. Baverstock, in 
the fulness of his joy, could not help relating 
the affair to the rest of that worthy body 



359 

I have mentioned before, the Bishop of Lich- 
field, Dr. Price, Dr. Zouch, the Rev. H. 
Phillpotts, and the Rev. D. Durell ; whose 
virtues and humanity inspiring them with 
the same feelings, they joined the Rev. Mr. 
Bouyer in providing a sum of money to sa- 
tisfy the troublesome creditors, and the offi- 
cer was immediately set at liberty. 

I cannot help mentioning, before I con- 
clude, that a School on the Madras System 
has, for these several years, been established 
in this city, for the purpose of educating the 
children of the poor, in order to improve 
their morals, and enlarge their minds. The 
author of this benevolent Institution is the 
Rev. R. G. Bouyer. I have been told, that this 
extraordinary and venerable Prebendary ex- 
ercises, with unwearied industry, his mental 
powers in new inventions to serve his fellow- 
creatures. Such a man is a greater benefit 
to his nation than the treasures of kings. 

The Bishop is a descendant of the ancient 



360 

family of the Barringtons ; and, as Count Pa- 
latine of Durham, enjoys privileges equal to 
those formerly possessed by the Prince Bishop 
of Warmia, who was invested with a power 
which the Polish nation could not prevent 
him from exercising. I have learned from 
the information of my friends, and from the 
history of this Palatinate, that the Lord 
Bishop, in his principality of Durham, (placed 
as he is in the midst of a generous nation, 
who give him little trouble compared with 
that which Bishops on the Continent often 
experience, as in the principalities of War- 
mia and Courland, and others that have ex- 
pired, and are now no more to be found) can 
make choice, according to his own pleasure, 
of his Chancellor, High Sheriff, Attorney 
General, Solicitor General, and many other 
respectable officers, who attend their duties 
in his courts of justice. As to the personal 
character of the Lord Bishop, I was highly 
gratified to hear from strangers, as well as 



361 

from the natives of his Palatinate, that he is 
distinguished for the practice of good and 
generous actions, and looks minutely after 
those who may stand in need of his assis- 
tance, and that he has improved with the 
greatest care a disposition naturally amiable. 
A store of honey is to be found in his polite 
conversation, and his appearance in public 
exhibits none of that stiffness which too often 
accompanies elevated stations. 

The City of Durham, which is the metro- 
polis of the Palatinate, has not an imposing 
appearance, as it contains not many build- 
ings of fine architecture : but this disadvan- 
tage is abundantly compensated by the hos- 
pitality and kindness of its amiable inhabi- 
tants, and occasionally, by their brilliant as- 
semblies, which give us so favourable an op- 
portunity to admire the elegant and beautiful 
features of the ladies. 

Amongst a variety of respectable persons, 
I met here a gentleman of high rank, of the 



362 

name of Smelt, who not only possessed ele- 
vated sentiments, but (as I discovered from 
his conversation) great knowledge, and a 
sound understanding. He honoured me with 
an invitation to stay at his country-house, 
near Northallerton, on my road to Hull, 
whither I expected tQ go soon, which I ac- 
cepted, and met with a most kind reception. 
I remained there some time, where I had the 
pleasure of witnessing the effects of his boun- 
tiful heart in relieving the distresses of his 
fellow-creatures, and maintaining many fa- 
milies reduced from affluence to a state of 
poverty. He was pleased with my conver- 
sation, as all travellers have something to 
tell, finding in their road many new subjects 
of remark, and begged me to stay with him 
till he should receive a letter from London, 
as he expected he should have something to 
communicate which concerned my interest. 
This declaration greatly surprised me, as I 
had not an idea what he could mean. I re- 



3*33 

mained for some time in uncertainty, won- 
dering who could take so much concern in 
my future destiny ; for continued adversity 
had impressed me with an idea, that nothing 
but misery was left in store for me. At last, 
he received a letter from his friend, the Duke 
of Gloucester, brother to the King, who sent 
a sum of money for me, with a promise that 
his Majesty would put down his name for a 
hundred pounds, and waited only for the ar- 
rival of his dear friend Mr. Smelt, to give it 
into his hand. So flattering an expression 
from a Monarch gave me reason to think, 
my amiable benefactor would hasten to Lon- 
don immediately ; but, to give me still fur- 
ther proofs of his generosity, he spent some 
time in collecting a subscription, having a 
powerful friend in Lord Mulgrave (who was 
his relation, and a Member of Parliament 
distinguished for his wisdom and virtue) ; he 
soon raised a considerable sum, and saying 
to me, " Since you are unfortunately desti- 



364 

•tute of natural protectors, allow me, as a 
father, to direct your future welfare." He 
sent that money to his worthy friend the 
Rev. R. G. Bouyer, to dispose of for my in- 
terest. I willingly gave up, not only my con- 
cerns, but my whole heart to his disposal : 
he made no objections to my going to Hull, 
when he knew I had a concert to give there ; 
but he expressed his particular wish, that I 
would wait in that town till his return from 
London. 

After his departure, the aspect of my 
affairs was dismally changed. The first news 
I heard was the death of the Duke of Glou- 
cester, and soon after, that of the King's ill- 
ness, without any hope of his recovery ; and, 
to complete my grievances, my dear Mr. 
Smelt, on his arrival at home, dropped down 
and expired, so that I never beheld him 
more. The loss of such a patron afflicted 
my heart with cruel pangs, and my sudden 
downfal from the height of prosperity to the 



305 

abyss of despair overwhelmed my faculties, 
and left me in such a state, as if I had sud- 
denly awaked from a delirious dream. When 
the transports of my grief were abated, a 
train of melancholy reflections succeeded, 
against the attack of which I had no consola- 
tion wherein I could take refuge, but what I 
might derive from the consideration, that the 
fate imposed upon mortality is fixed by laws 
irrevocable, and severs without distinction 
the closest ties which bind us to each other. 
"When I looked back upon the scenes of my 
past life, through the dark medium in which 
I viewed them, they presented nothing but a 
gloomy and cheerless picture ; and I felt al- 
most tempted to regard myself, as marked 
out by fortune to be the victim of grief and 
sorrow. Despair inspired me with a degree 
of fortitude. "Now," I exclaimed, "when 
I have lost in my dear friend the most valu- 
able treasure, and the greatest happiness this 
world can furnish, I need not greatly fear 
3 a 



366 

the worst my future lot may have in store for 
me. I, that have weathered some of life's 
roughest storms, need not shrink from ven- 
turing myself once more on t e tempestuous 
ocean. " 

Impelled by such reflections, I immediate- 
ly left Hull, and set off for London in order 
to embark for America. But, as soon as I 
arrived there, I had the happiness to find the 
aspect of my fortune much improved. My 
kind benefactresses, the Misses Metcalfe, 
perceiving me to be deprived of every sup- 
port, and plunged in the deepest misery, 
compassionated my distress ; and, actuated 
by the most generous concern for my future 
welfare, vouchsafed to honour me with their 
protection, and to supply me with a sum of 
money, which has enabled me to enjoy the 
comforts of life. The only return which I 
am able to make for such benevolence is to 
describe it, and to make known to my rea- 
ders the source of my independence. But 



367 

how can I find words to express my grati- 
tude for their unremitted bounty conferred 
upon me, from the very moment of my ar- 
rival in England ! Conscious, however, as 
I am, how inadequate must be all language 
to describe my feelings, I shall attempt to 
manifest to the world my deep sense of that 
beneficence which was so kindly exerted to 
relieve me from misery and want, and of the 
goodness of those blessed beings, who ap- 
peared like the rainbow in the storm, to dis- 
perse the dark clouds which had so long 
hung over my fortunes, and to announce to 
me the dawn of brighter prospects. How 
flattering was it to find myself honoured 
with the notice and protection of a, family, 
endowed with such elevated sentiments of 
mind as that of Metcalfe, after having met 
with so many persons who seemed to pay me 
no regard, nor even to consider me as a fel- 
low-creature, much less as one whose heart 
beats with all the feeling of an honest man ! 



36$ 

To one possessed of tender sensibility, how 
painful are the reflections excited by such 
treatment ! Happy must I esteem myself, 
that I have met with so many more whose 
liberal minds taught them to view me in a 
far different light — most happy, that Pro- 
vidence has enabled me to rank you, my 
benefactresses, as chief among the number. 
Fortunate was the lot that placed me within 
the limits of that extensive sphere, which 
your benevolence embraces. I owe it to 
that protection, which you so graciously 
conferred upon me, that I have not been 
compelled, by the necessity of my unhappy 
situation, still to wander, God knows whi- 
ther, with his Providence alone for my guide. 
Be assured, that I will ever retain, in the 
inmost recesses of my soul, the delightful 
remembrance of your goodness ; and that 
my heart will never cease to cherish those 
sentiments of gratitude with which your be- 
nevolence has impressed it j nor to pour forth 



369 

its earnest wish that the Supreme Being may 
ever bless you with his choicest blessings. 

Before I had the happiness to enjoy the 
protection of the family of Metcalfe, I was 
anxious, in furtherance of the plan which I 
had projected, to give a concert, .as I had 
then the opportunity of a free passage for 
America. I happened just at that time to 
meet with his Lordship the Archbishop of 
Dublin, and his lady, who had, during my 
stay in Ireland, honoured me with their 
patronage, and given me repeated proofs of 
their bounty. As I was so well acquainted 
with the noble dispositions of these eminent 
personages, whose greatest pleasure consisted 
in anxious and unremitted endeavours to 
promote the happiness of their fellow-crea- 
tures, and whose manners, though perfectly 
correspondent to their illustrious birth and 
high situation, were far from being formal 
and ceremonious, I ventured to request a 
renewal of their favour: I also took the 



\ 370 

liberty to solicit Lord and Lady Hawarden, 
that they would honour me, by affording to 
my concert their patronage and protection. 
I was induced to make this bold request, by 
the circumstance of Lord Hawarden being 
the son-in-law of the Archbishop, and of the 
latter having honoured me with his particu- 
lar notice. Lady Hawarden generously ex- 
tended to me her patronage, which could not 
fail of procuring me a good benefit. The 
flattering circumstance of her protection of 
my concert is far, however, from being the 
only instance of her kindness, which it be- 
comes my pleasing task to acknowledge. 
She crowned her favours by sending me a 
present, for fear I should be in want, and by 
placing annually in the hand of the amiable 
Miss Metcalfe, a sum of money to be remit- 
ted to me in Durham. Thus has her gene- 
rosity compelled me to add my poor tribute 
to the sum of universal esteem and admira- 
tion, which must be paid by those who know 



87*1 

the virtues and the graces which ennoble and 
adorn her. But here I must stop : although 
my lively feelings may inspire me with lan- 
guage in some degree capable of expressing 
my gratitude, they cannot impart to me 
talents, of the want of which I am too con- 
scious. That character, therefore, which 
my humble abilities would but injure by at- 
tempting to describe, I must content myself 
with admiring in silence. In addition to the 
many instances of kindness for which I am 
indebted to the illustrious family of the Ha- 
wardens, it becomes my pleasing duty to re- 
cord the noble action of Colonel Greville, 
who gave me a striking proof of the delicacy 
of his sentiments, and of his feeling disposi- 
tion, by generously presenting me with the 
sum of j£100, as a help to increase my in- 
come. This money was remited by Mr. 
Metcalfe, and by Mr. Muir brother-in-law of 
my protectresses, to that amiable and worthy 
gentleman the Rev. It. G. Bouyer, who was 



372 

so kind as to add it to the sum which had 
been provided by my dear friend Mr. Smelt. 
Notwithstanding the auspicious appear- 
ance which my affairs now began to assume, 
I had not yet recovered from despair, and 
still felt anxious to put in execution my pur- 
posed voyage to America. But as I had 
never been in the habit of keeping any thing 
secret from my benefactresses, who were ac- 
quainted with all my affairs from the begin- 
ning to the end, I disclosed to them my in- 
tentions. I could easily perceive, although 
they gave me no opinion as to my having 
determined well or ill, that what I had 
communicated had given them a gloomy im- 
pression, and the conversation terminated 
with their expressing a wish that I would 
accompany them next day into the country, 
to dine with Mrs. Muir their sister, who was 
unwell, and had a desire to see me. I went 
with them accordingly at the time appoint- 
«d : every thing had been prepared for my 



Q>-"T> 



reception ; and on my arrival, it was an- 
nounced to me, that I need trouble my mind 
no more with ideas of going to the other 
side of the water, to glean for my living. At 
this fortunate moment, I received from their 
benevolent hands, a sum of money sufficient 
to procure me independence, and the enjoy- 
ment of a quiet, happy life. Such an unlook- 
ed-for reverse of fortune, thus terminating 
at once the troubles and fatigues to which I 
had been for so many years accustomed, ex- 
cited in my breast a tumult of astonishment 
and joy, which deprived me of all power to 
give utterance to the emotions of my heart. 
My looks alone were capable of conveying 
the least idea of the transports and extacies 
of my gratitude towards the benevolent and 
amiable family of Metcalfe, for this last act 
of their beneficence, which so nobly crowned 
their former bounties. 

I should prove myself but ill deserving of 
the many good friends it has been my happi- 
3 B 



374 

jiess to meet with, were I, whilst memory is 
employed in the delightful task of contemp- 
lating their kindness, to forget the name of 
Burdon of Hartford. This gentleman, be- 
ing under an apprehension that I might be 
in want, offered, with the most unlimited 
generosity, to supply my necessities. I could 
not think of abusing the goodness of so noble 
and generous a heart, by unnecessarily avail- 
ing myself of his liberal offer, and was there- 
fore obliged to confess, that my circum- 
stances were then such as placed me above 
the reach of want. He was a good deal sur- 
prised at this declaration, and no doubt con- 
cerned, that he was deprived of an opportuni- 
ty of exercising his bounty. But let me as- 
sure his worthy family, that his kind inten- 
tions towards me have- impressed me with 
sentiments of gratitude to his memory, which 
can never be extinguished but with life itself. 
I am now drawing near to the conclusion 
of my wandering life, being arrived, at that 



375 

period in which I quitted the busy stage 
where I had performed a part in so many 
tragic and comic scenes, and retired to the 
quiet enjoyment of an asylum from its cares 
and perplexities, which had been the object 
of my wishes from my earliest days. It was 
in the happy land of England that I found 
this blessings 



CONCLUSION. 

The City of Durham appeared to be most 
happily adapted to my wishes for a retired 
life ; not only from its romantic situation, 
but from its being the abode of a friend 
whose manners were so congenial with my 
own, and whose society afforded me such 
heartfelt delight. To Durham therefore I was 
now determined to direct my steps, intend- 
ing to settle there, and once more enjoy the 
company of my worthy friend Ebdon. 

A few days before my departure from 
London to realize this happiness, the antici- 
pation of which brought tears of pleasure to 
my eyes, I had the good fortune to meet 
with a friend from the north, who politely 
offered to conduct me to Durham, at which 



877 

city he resides. I availed myself of his kind- 
ness ; and we had no sooner arrived there, 
than he did me the honor to introduce me 
to his lady, who received me with all the po- 
lite attention and affability which ?o natural- 
ly spring from her amiable disposition. 

After I had paid my respects to this esteem- 
ed gentlewoman, I immediately attended. to 
that object which was nearest to my heart, 
and hastened to see my good friend Mr. Eb- 
don, whose share in my affections and esteem 
remained still undiminished. I informed 
him, on our meeting, that I had now quitted 
the busy theatre of the world, and its noisy 
and promiscuous intercourse, which had un- 
mercifully robbed me of so many precious 
hours, that might, in retirement, have been 
devoted to a much better use in the improve- 
ment of the mind. I must now at the same 
time confess, observed I, that I have found 
travelling an excellent school for acquiring 
a more extensive and accurate knowledge of 



mankind ; as it presents to our view such an 
astonishing variety of characters, minds, and 
manners of every description, and makes us 
acquainted with the moral, as well as the na- 
tural, phenomena of the world. I have, how- 
ever, now obtained from that school all the 
knowledge I desire, and am not sorry to find 
myself safely lodged at last, in this snug 
little corner of the earth. My dear friend 
Ebdon, with his amiable family, happy to find 
that such were my seniments, and rejoic- 
ing in the prospect of my being at length 
freed from the troubles of the world, offered 
me, with most engaging frankness, a quiet 
asylum in his house. 

This generous proposal convinced me, that 
I had now found one with whom friendship 
was something more than a bare name ; one 
in whose breast its noble and genuine prin- 
ciples were carefully cherished. I could not 
but reflect on the contrast he presented to 
the generality of those whom the world com- 



379 

pliments with the title of friends, — who too 
often mock our expectations of a substance, 
with an empty shadow ; and I felt happy in 
being enabled to enjoy, in the decline of life, 
the serene and steady light of a sincere at- 
tachment, secure from the deceitful blaze of 
common friendship, which in a moment disap- 
pears, and leaves us involved in dismal dark- 
ness* Convinced as I was, that with Mr. 
Ebdon I incurred no risk of being deluded 
by the vain professions of an inconstant pre- 
tender of friendship ; but that the proposal 
of this worthy man arose from the goodness 
of his disposition, and from the impulse of 
those feelings which prompted him to secure 
for me a happy retreat, I could not resist 
such kindness, but readily accepted his gene- 
rous offer. My expectation of happiness in 
his society were fully realised ; and deeply 
must I regret, that it was so soon to have an 
end. Unfortunately for myself, his family, 
and friends, he was seized with a dangerous 



380 

illness. Recourse was had, in vain, to all the 
help of medical art, and within a few months 
he died, with the same tranquillity and calm- 
ness of soul which had attended him through 
life. This sad event, which I cannot even 
now recal to mind without a tear, wounded 
my feelings deeply : severe, however, as was 
my grief, it seemed fully warranted by the 
consciousness I possessed, how worthy to be 
lamented was my departed friend ; and I 
could not but look on the occasion as one of 
those which might, even in the sight of Hea- 
ven, justify my sorrow. My grief was soon 
perceived by the Misses Ebdon, who knowing 
that it proceeded from my affection to their 
father, generously proposed that we should 
remain together. This unexpected honour I 
accepted with much pleasure. From that time 
my days have been spent in their society, 
and to this moment I still employ myself in 
studying to evince the gratitude I feel for that 
kindness which has enabled me to enjoy my 



381 

beloved retreat, with those who had been the 
happy witnesses of my introduction to it, and 
who are so nearly allied, as well by disposi- 
tion as by blood, to that lamented friend to 
whom I owe the blessing. 



S c 



POSTSCRIPT. 



From the period when I fixed my resi- 
dence in a quiet and retired cottage, where 
my days glided on in undisturbed tranquil- 
lity, I had ceased to remember that I was born 
the child of misfortune ; my troubles had all 
passed away, and I vainly flattered myself, 
that in this sweet retirement, adversity would 
never reach me. Thus happy in my present 
situation, and elated with the most flattering 
prospects of futurity, I undertook and com- 
pleted the task of writing my Memoirs. 
But no sooner had I delivered them into the 
hands of the Printer, than I had the misfor- 
tune to lose my dearest protectress, Miss 
Margaret Metcalfe. My feelings are too 
painful to permit my dwelling on the dis- 



tressing subject. I leave it to the reader to 
conceive, how severe a task it is to support 
the affliction felt, when our dearest friend 
has bidden an eternal farewell to the world. 
Nor will time itself avail to heal my sorrows ; 
for a loss so great as I have sustained must 
be contemplated, even to the latest moments 
of existence, with the deepest grief and re- 
gret. One melancholy satisfaction I possess, 
— the thought that I was regarded by my la- 
mented benefactress, at the close of her valu- 
able life, as not unworthy of the goodness 
she had extended to me during so long a 
period of it, and that I still owe my inde- 
pendence to her bounty. Her sacred memory 
is now, alas ! all that is left of my protectress, 
and there my gratitude must ever dwell. 



FINIS. 



FEINTED BY F. HUMBLE AND 00. DURHAM, 



SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. 



HIS MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY, KING GEORGE 
THE FOURTH. 

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUKE OF GLOUCES- 
TER. • 

THE HONOURABLE AND RIGHT REVEREND THE 
LORD BISHOP OF DURHAM. 



A. 

Affleck Sir John, Dalham Hall, Newmarket. 

Amory Samuel, Esq. 52, Lothbury, London. 

Allsopp L., Esq. Nottingham. 

Allan J., Esq. Blackwell, Durham. 

Andrews Mr. G., Durham. (2 Copies.) 

Ashton Mr., do. 

Anonymous. (2 Copies.) 

Alderson Thomas, Esq. London. 

Ambler Miss, Bishop Middleham, Durham. 

Atkinson James, Esq. Yorkshire. 

B. 

Barrington Lord Viscount. 

Barrington Hon. W., Durham. 

Broke Lady, Nacton House, Ipswich. 

Brookes W., Esq. Kingsland, Crescent, London. 

Brookes Miss, do. 

Brookes Miss M. do. 

Burgess Mrs., Durham. 

Beckett Thomas, Esq. Thornton-le-Moor, Yorkshire. 

Burdon The late W., Esq. Hartford. 

Burdon W., jun. Esq. do. 

Burdon Mrs., do. 

Burdon Miss, do. 

Burdon Miss Eliza, do. 

Brockett J. T., Esq. Newcastle. 

Brown Miss, Mile End, London. 

Brand Mrs., Durham. 

Baker Rev. James, Durham. 

Baker Mrs. James, do. 

3 c 



586 subscribers' names. 

Burrell W., Esq. Broom Park, Northumberland. 

Bright Rev. Thomas, Forton, near Newport, Shropshire. 

Bewick Mrs., Close House, Northumberland. 

Baseley C. H., Esq. Scot's House, Durham. 

Baseley Mrs., do. 

Bun-ell John, Esq. Durham. 

Bonomi Mr., do. 

Barker Samuel, Esq, Lyndon. 

Brown Rev. G., Ushaw College, Durham. 

Britton Rev. James, Yorkshire. 

Barras Miss Mary, Gateshead. 

Blackburn Rev. James, Newcastle. 

Barne Snowdon, Esq. 8, Portugal Street, London. 

Barnwell Rev. Francis, Bury St. Edmund's, London. 

Burdon R., Esq. Oriel College, Oxford. 

Bungey Mr.. Durham. 

C. 

Castlereagh The Right Honourable Lord. 

Clarke Rev. J., Durham. 

Chrishop Miss, do. (2 Copies.) 

Cay ley Dr. do. (do.) 

Crowe R., Esq. Kiplin, Yorkshire. 

Carr Rev. J., Durham. 

Campbell Colin, Esq. Trinity College, Cambridge. 

Coles John, Esq. Lothbury, London. 

Campbell Miss, Sidmouth, Devonshire. 

Colling Miss E., Hurworth, Durham, 

Crowe Mrs., Durham. 

Colberg Miss, Mongewell, Oxfordshire. 

Cholmondeley George, Esq. 18, Great Cumberland Street, London. 

Cholmondeley Mrs., do. 

Clavering Mrs., Northumberland Street, Newcastle. 

Collinson Rev. J., Gateshead. 

Collinson Mrs., do. 

Clavering Lady Augusta, Edinburgh. 

\ 
D. 
Darlington The Right Honourable the Earl of, Raby Castle, 
Darlington Countess of, do. 

David's The Right Reverend the Lord Bishop of St. 
Durell Rev. D., Prebendary of Durham. 
Durell Mrs., Durham. 
Durell D. V., Esq. Durham. 
Donkin Henry, Esq. Durham. 
Dickens Henry John, Esq. York. 

Davison Mrs. Edward, Harlington Rectory, Middlesex. 
Dalton Rev. J., Rector of Croft, Yorkshire. 
Davidson John, Esq. Newcastle. 



subscribers' NAMES. 587 



E. 
Ebdon C, Esq. Durham. 
Ebdon Rev. T., do. 
Eden Dr., do. 

Eden Miss, do. 

Elliott Robert, Esq. 46, Devonshire Street, London. 
Ewbank Rev. Thomas, Stockton. 
Ellis Welbore, Esq. Banker, London. 

F. 

Forster Mrs., Alnwick, Northumberland. 

Forster J., Esq. do. do. 

Fawcett Rev. J., Newton Hall, Durham. 

Fawcett J., Esq. Baliol College, Oxford. 

Fenwick Dr., Durham. 

Fox Mr. Geo. T., Westoe. 

Forster Mrs., Newcastle. 

Forster Henry, Esq. Temple, London. 

Forster Job, Esq. Westgate Street, Newcastle. 

G. 
Grey The Hon. and Rev. A., Prebendary of Durham. 
Gray Rev. Dr., do. (5 Copies.) 

Green Miss, Durham. 
Garthwaite Captain, Sunderland. 
George Rev. P., Durham. 
Gamlen Rev. S., do. 

Graham Rev. J., Christ's College, Cambridge. 
George Mr. H. S., Crook Hall, Durham. 
George Mrs., do. 

Gardner Mrs., Durham. 
Gray Rev. Robert, Sunderland. 
Gray Mrs. do. 

Gibson Thomas, Esq. Newcastle. 
Gibson Miss E., Ellison Place, Newcastle. 
Gibson Rev. J. S. do. 

Grey John, Esq. Bishopwearmouth. 

H. 

Harcourt The Countess of, Nuneham, Oxfordshire. 

Haggitt Rev. Dr., Prebendary of Durham. 

Haslewood Rev. D., Durham. 

Henshaw Mr., do. 

Humble Mr. F., do. 

Hutchinson Mrs., Egglestone, Durham. 

Harrison George, Esq. Treasury Chambers, London. 

Hammett James, E;;q. Bath. 

Hammett Mrs., Bath. 

Hammett Mrs J., do. 



388 'SUBSCRIBERS' NAMES. 

Hopper Miss, Durham. 
Hopper J. R., Esq. 
Hopper T., Esq. Hendon, Durham. 
Haslewood Rev. B., Sunderland. 

Hammond Mrs., 7, Dean Street, Park Lane, London. 
Hutton Rev. John, Houghton Hall, Durham. 
Hodgkinson Mrs., Chester Place, London. 
Hindle Mr., Kingsland Cottage, do. 
Hindle Mrs., do. do. 

H-adlam Miss, Gateshead. 
Halhead Miss, Durham. 
Hay Edward, Esq. Christ Church, Oxford. 
Hue Rev. Dr., Jesus College, Oxford. 
Hirnsworth T. W., Esq. Lincoln College, Ojiford. 
Hammond A., Esq. Durham. 
Hoar W., Esq. do. 

Hobson John, Esq. Richmond, Yorkshire. 
Hopper John, Esq. Norfolk. 

Henderson John, Esq. Upper Charlotte Street, Filzroy Square, Lon- 
don. 
Head Mr., Trinity College, Cambridge. 
Headiam Dr., Newcastle. 
Haytcn William, Esq. Bishopwearmouth. 

K. 

King Mrs., Gateshead. (2 Copies.) 
Kitchinman Rev. H., Yorkshire. 
Kelly James Birch, Esq. Durham. 
Kestevan Mr., London. 

I" 

Liddell Sir Thomas Henry, Bart. Ravensworth Castle. 

Liddeil Lady, do. 

Lambton John George, Esq. M.P., Lambtcn Hall. 

Lambton Lady Louisa, do. 

Logan A., Esq. Durham. — 

Laye Lieutenant-General, Newcastle. 

Lamb H., E=q. Newcastle. 

Lamb J., Esq. do. 

Leybourne Mr J., Durham. 

Lawson Sir Henry, Bart. Brough Hall, Yorkshire. 

Lempriere Miss, I ymington. 

Lonsdale William, Esq. St John's College, Cambridge. 

Light Lieut. -Colonel, Durham. 

Lutenor Mr. G., do. 

M. 
Middleton Lady, Shrubland Park, Ipswich. 
Maxwell Mrs., Durham. (3 Copies.) 



SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. 383 

Marwood Rev. — , Bu»by Hall, near Stokesley, Yorkshire. 

Marwood Mrs.i do. 

Maling Mrs., Scot's House, Durham. 

Morrison Hev. J. H. 

Morrison Miss. 

Madellan Mr. G., Durham. 

Middleton R., Esq. do. 

Muir James, Esq. 33, George Street, London. 

Mair Mrs., do. 

Muir Miss, do. 

Muir Miss C, do. 

Muir Alexander, Esq. 13, Paper Buildings, Temple, London. 

Metcalfe Philip, Esq. 32, Hill Street, Berkeley Square, London. 

Metcalfe Miss. 

Metcalfe Miss M. 

Metcalfe Miss J. 

Metcalfe Miss Sophia, Brighthelmstone. 

Metcalfe Miss Emma, do. 

Macnamara Miss, 32, Charles Street, Berkeley Square, London. 

Maude Miss S., Selaby, Durham. 

Macknight Mrs., Durham. 

Macdonald Robert, Esq. Durham. 

Muir Samuel, E;q. 15, Ckarles Street, Berkeley Square, London. 

Musgrave George, Esq. 27, Green Street, Gro..venor Square, do. 

Mathews C, Esq. Highgate, London. (2 Copies.) 

Mather Mrs., Ellison Place, Newcastle. 

N. 
Northumberland His Grace the Duke of. 
Norwich The Lord Bishop of. 
Nesfield Rev. W., Brancepeth, Durham. 

O. 

Oxford The Honourable and Right Reverend the Lord BLhop of. 

P. 

Price Rev. Dr., Prebendary of Durham. 
Phillpotts Rev. H., do. 

Phiilpotts Mrs., Durham. 
Peat Rev. Sir Robert, Bishopwearmouth. 

Perigill Rev. , Northumberland. 

Prosser Rev. Dr., Prebendary of Durham. 
Preston Rev. W., Aycliffe, Durham. 
Pifchford Rev. John, Colwich, Staffordshire. 
Peters W., Esq. Newcastle. 
Penson Rev. P., Durham. 
Parker S., Esq. Elswick. 
Peareth Mrs., Usworth, near Gateshead. 
Pearson Miss, Northumberland Street, Newcastle. 
Pearson Miss M., do. do. 



590 subscribers' names. 



R. 
Roxburgh Her Grace the Duchess of. 
Rowley Lady, 1, BulstroJe Street, London. 
Robson J., Esq. Richmond, Yorkshire. 
Raine Rev. J., Durham. 

Russell Matthew, Esq. M.P. Brancepeth Castle, Durham. 
Russell Mrs., do. 

Ramsay Dr., Newcastle. 

S. 
Strathmore The Right Honourable the Earl of. 
Stewart The Right Honourable Lord Vane 
Stewart Lady Vane. 

Scott Right Honourable Sir W., London. 

Strackey Sir H., Bart. 9, Hill Street, Berkeley Square, Londoft. 
Strackey Lady, do. do. 

Strackey R., Esq. London. 
Seddon Major- General, Durham. 
Swire Rev. Dr., Melsonby, Yorkshire. 
Salvin W. T., Esq. Croxdale, Durham. 
Surtees R., Esq. Mainsforth, do. 
Shipperdson Edward, Esq. Durham. (2 Copies.) 
Sanders J. W., Esq. 

Salvin B. J., Esq. Burn Hall, Durham. 
Shaftoe R. E. D., Esq. Whitworth, Durham. 
Steuart Hope, Esq. Houghton-le- Spring. 
Smith Rev. — — , Croxdale, Durham. 
Smith Rev. J., Vicar of Newcastle. 

Sharp Rev. A., Bambro', Northumberland. (2 Copies.) 
Sharp Mrs A., do. 
Sharp Mrs., Clare Hall. 
Scott Mr., Manchester. 
Scruton Richard, Esq. Durham. 
Scott Mrs., Sherton, N. B. 
Shafto Mrs., Battle Hill, Hexham. 
Sparke Mrs., Ridley Hall, Northumberland* 
Salter Mr., Bank, Durham. 
Salter Mr., junior, do. 
Stoker Mr., Surgeon, do. 
Scott Mr., Harden Mertoun, near Kelso. 
Scott Mrs., do. 

Scott Mr H., do. 

Scott Miss, do. 

Swinburne Mr., Durham. 
Spencer Rev. Robert, Helmington, Durham* 
Sewell Miss, Durham. 
Scott John, Esq. Bishopwearmouth. 
Stafford Miss. (2 Copies.) 
Smith Mr C, Savilie Row, Newcastle* 



subscribers' names. 591 

Scott Miss, Newcastle. 

Smart John, Esq. Trewitt House, Northumberland. 

Smart William, Esq. Lombard Street, London. 

T. 
Tyrconnel The Right Honourable the Earl of. 
Tyrconnel Countess of. 
Twizledon John, Esq. Yorkshire. 
Travis Mr., Durham. 

Tathain Rev. R., St John's College, Cambridge. 
Tocker Mrs., Durham. 
Towney Richard, Esq. Dunchurch. 
Tredwell Mr W., Oxford. 

Trotter Coutts, Esq. 46, Bemer's Street, London. 
Todd Mr. G., York. 
Todd Mr. J., do. 

Thompson Mr Thomas, Saville Row, Newcastle. 
Theakstone Rev. M., Hur worth. 
Theakstone Mrs., do. 

Tathwell Miss, Whitburn. 
Tully C, Esq. Felling Shore, Gateshead. 

V. 

Viner Miss, Durham. 

Vachell Tanfield, Esq. Chelmsford. 

W. 

Williamson Sir Hedworth, Bart. Whitburn, Durham, 

Williamson Lady, do. 

Ward Miss, Hurworth. 

Ward Miss A., do. 

Woodifield Matthew, Esq. Durham. 

Woodifield Miss, do. 

Wharton Mr F., do. 

Witham Rev. G., do. 

Wilkie T. A., Esq. Lemington House. 

Waldie Richard, Esq. Clare Hall, Cambridge. 

Weston Rev. Stephen, Eiward Street, Portman Square, London, 

Wright Richard, Esq. Sands, Durham. 

Walker Joshua, Esq. London. 

Walker Henry, Esq. do.' 

Witham Henry, Esq. Lartington, Yorkshire. 

Witham Mrs., do. 

Ward J., Esq. Durham. 

Williams Mrs., do. 

Wilkinson Thomas, Esq. St John's College, Cambridge, 

Wilkinson General, Durham. 



SND OF SUBSCRIBERS NAMK, 



ERRATA. 

Page 190, line 2, for am, read ivas. 

199, line 8, for Mrs. Brown, read Mrs. B — — . 

297, line 11, for genearl, read general. 

= 505, line 19, after through, substitute a comma for 

the period. 



LENiy'12 



